vettewreck

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys check out my build list so far. Not very extensive but I think I have the basics. Looking for at least 801rwhp but would love to be around 850rwhp through a T56 manual. Not planning to spin the motor high, maybe 6500-6800rpm

5.3 LM7 iron block
Wisco Junkyard forged pistons
Stock rods
ARP rod bolts
ARP head bolts
ported 317 or 243 heads
Cam and springs (opinions on which cam??)
Twin Garrett T66 turbos (not sure on what size with air)
15lbs of boost (maybe up to 18 since it will be forged to get my number)
LS6 intake

What are your guys opinions on the parts and any more thoughts on other parts or what size turbos or intake size on the hot or cold side, cam size, ect, ect…

Im pretty sure its possible bc its been done but none so far on forged pistons. Most people are doing this on stock bottom end. I just want to be safe and to have it last and it will be with a good safe tune, not looking to push the boundaries.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

ARP hardware is a waste and can egg out the big end of the OEM rods. There is no way to resize a cracked style rod properly, though some shops will hone it. IMO ARP hardware is pointless and unnecessary. Also totally unnecessary for the mains. Buy real rods if you plan on aftermarket hardware.

You mention ARP head "bolts"? FWIW you'd want the studs not the bolts.

You dont' mention what year rods? I'd assume the 2005+ "beefy" rods are being used? I wouldn't use a gen3 OEM rod for those numbers. I'd run aftermarket rods before I ran aftermarket pistons. Seems odd to not do both. Your not really giving yourself any kind of reliability just going with one and not the other.

6800rpm is pretty high. I'd keep it around 6300-6500 if you want it to live with the OEM rods.

Either of those heads will work fine, the 317's are usually ALOT cheaper if you plan on machining them anyway. 241's once machined will work great as well. Everyone and their mom thinks "243's" are the only way to go these days. So they are overpriced... much like the LS6 intake.

You don't need a massive cam... the ISKY tripple 12 (or very slightly larger) would be my suggestion. It's a 212/212 @ 112 .56x lift. Pac1218 springs will work great with it as well. He also makes a 215/215 and a 218/218 version of the same cam basically.

vettewreck

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. Honestly haven't thought about the rods and all. If I'm not spinning it high and just sticking to around 6300-6500 thought the stock ones would work and just put ARP bolts in them. The 5.3 is a '05 so honestly was just going to use the stock rods. But please give me some suggestions. Obviously want to keep things slightly cheaper and if I don't need rods, then don't want to buy them but give me your thoughts on all please if you can.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Those are great rods, don't get me wrong. And I'm sure they will be OK. But on that same note the OEM pistons should be OK as well. I see no advantages to doing one and not the other. Either run OEM parts and keep it cheap, or run aftermarket parts. The half and half thing isn't doing you any favors IMO.

When running OEM rods, ARP bolts aren't' necessary and may even hurt you. Why take the risk? The OEM bolts are great hardware and have been proven many times. Again... i'd pick aftermarket or OEM, dont' mix and match.

Some have done it and been fine, others have gotten bitten by it. It's just additional risk and machine work for little (if any) gain.

vettewreck

iTrader: (1)

I see what you're saying. Only reason why I was looking into forged pistons was bc as far as I know, when running high boost they can handle more/better without melting. I plan to run a minimum of 15lbs. So if I'm going to run forged pistons then i might as well run forged rods for another $500 and be done. When doing both, does this help up the reliability of the motor (since going half and half doesn't really)? THank you!

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Definitely do the rods also, most of them come with ARP hardware anyway (so you don't have to buy ARPs)...and you can sell the old ones to recoup the cost.

So for only 2-300 more you get forged steel rods, which are a much better choice at that power level regardless of the RPMs you are running. If you were keeping the bottom end untouched it would be ok with the beefier rods. But since you're taking it all apart and re-balancing it, why not put in much better rods?

Treyvs

Indeed. My Compstar 6.125's are really nice units. They come to you torqued to 75 ft/lbs as to hold their shape until you're ready to assemble the engine. Got mine from TSP shipped for $610. They are a solid investment if you want to turn some R's.

vettewreck

iTrader: (1)

Well ill start looking into some forged rods then as well. What would be a good combo with the Wisco forged 5.3 pistons?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Are you stuck on the JY dog series of piston? What kind of price are you getting them for?

Since your using an Iron block why not bore it out to 3.9 and run the forged LS1 bore pistons. The larger bore pistons are usually cheaper than the smaller bore stuff. If you call up Texas Speed or any other LS performance company they suggest you bore cyls a tiny bot for the JY series pistons anyway. (for thermal expansion) Won't cost you any more money to bore it out to 3.9. Then you get more power for less money. On that same note if I were to build a forged motor I wouldn't bother with the small bores. I'd jump right into a 4" bore 6.0 motor. The snowball effect is never ending!

vettewreck

iTrader: (1)

Exactly, its never ending lol So trying to keep it budget FRIENDLY and not go here, then there, then over there… and so on and so on haha! The 5.3 I'm picking up is from a '05 with only 100k miles that was rolled 4 hours after a guy installed a big lift on his truck haha. So it should be ok. I think I'm looking at $750-ish for the Wisco JY forged pistons. Seems about on par with others and a good quality.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Theres my point, you can get forged LS1 pistons for about $550. And a piston/ring package for 640 shipped. If your going to bore the motor anyway it’s cheaper to go larger bore.

vettewreck

iTrader: (1)

Wont boring larger defeat the purpose of going high boost and possibly weakening the block more? Correct me if I'm wrong by all means. I honestly didnt plan to bore the motor so didnt think of these things yet.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

No, it will be plenty strong for your goals. Same wall thickness as an LS1, but iron so it will be stronger. Pretty common place to bore them that much. Always suggested to do a sonic check though. ( Personally I wouldn't bother )