114 tends to make power about 200-400 rpms higher than a 112.. so the 112 is supposed to make peak power a little sooner

in my opinion you wont notice a difference :-P

114 idles a tad better also, so its more daily drive friendly. But with a good tune and some time a 112 could idle nice also. I'd still get a 114 even if I did it all over again

mine mph'ed 117 cam only(11.50) with 3.23's so its making decent power for a 3500 pound car. With the heads now it feels like a beast. Just cant get the time or money to get down the track at this moment lol

good luck with either way you decide to go btw

 

cool, ill probably get the 114 then, i want the nice lopey rumble, but its going to be daily driven at least 200 miles a week so that sounds like the right choice for me, thanks harold.
brian

 

I made 413rwhp and 384rwtq with mods in sig. Get a good set of heads and a cam to compliment them with a good tuner and it will be east as pie.

 

Why dyno in 2nd?

This is my stock M6 in 3rd and 4th. 4th is the top graphs, 3rd is the lower ones. 3rd makes less power, not more. And you will make more in 3rd in an auto than 2nd.

 

ive got 2.73's & auto...3rd could be run out to ~190mph tuner didnt feel comfortable doing it that way.

 

Oh. Ok. We've seen 158 mph on the dyno with my car (hit the fuel cut at 158.1 mph). But that makes sense (I guess), just remember, your numbers will be slightly low.

Have fun!

 

You may also want to ask them about their new 225 camshaft.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/164247-tsp-225-camshaft-tsp-5-3l-r-results.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/162312-40rwhp-gains-new-225-camshaft.html

 

Well, 400 isn't all that easy. After all the lucky stories I've seen, I went with JPR S2 heads, a TR 227/224, LT headers from PPC, other bolt-ons and tuning and only have 370 through an A4 and 3.73's. Good luck

 

yah but youve got jpr heads and apparently no ls6 intake...

 

Dyno #'s arent everything. mine didnt dyno anywhere near 400 rwhp, but check out my ET and trap speed.

 

02C5: I would think you should be trapping 118+ with H/C atleast. I mean cam only I was seeing 117 traps and should be 120-122 with the heads in good air I hope. Im agreeing with you about the dyno numbers though. Not saying you et sucks either cause weather, and other things coulda affected that also(weight too) I care less about a HP number on paper cause I want ET's...

A guy in our club dynoed 380 in his auto H/C car and runs 11.0-1's so go figure... its not about numbers on a dyno.. its about your car setup


I mean Hawkn01 whom is SI runs 11.2@118 SI with what??? about 340hp LMAO.. just a light car

no one should shoot for high dyno's, escpially in a AUTO. I dyno 277/300 when i was SI and went 11.9@112. Not a bad mph for 277hp LMAO

 

foff, you are correct. I am about to put the stock heads back on and see what i gain then!

 

So i checked out the TSP 225 cam, looks pretty stout how do you all think it compares to the old tried and true 224 cam? Will i have P to V clearance issues with the stage 2 heads milled .030"??? Also, had a question about the lsa, its marked as a 112+2, what exactly does that mean?

 

means its on a 112lca + 2 degrees of advance which will bring the powerband down some making the range more useable.

 

HD

Im gonna have to say that only those who have low dyno #`s say they dont matter. We both know that track times have more to do with the setup of the car than hp but if that guy who dynoed 380 and runs 11.2@118 had say 410 hp his car would be in the 10`s. HP is HP . At the track there are way more variables to take into account weather/suspension/tires/driver/trackprep/gearing/weight etc. Its all about how you put your power to the ground. But its all relative if the car is setup right and everything is equal if you add usable hp/tq you will go faster.
Ive been on 5 dynos in 3 different states and ive never seen more than a 3-5hp swing between them in all different weather conditions(winter/summer). I see bigger huge differences at the track from day to day. ITs funny the way people talk its like guys who have good dyno #`s cant go as fast as low dynoing cars.
I think this guy should have no problems making 400 hp with a 224 cam and almost anyones s2 heads if he has all the boltons.
Its good to have a goal with your hp when you purchese the parts for your car. Then you can still lighten it up and make it hook

 

most of the dyno charts i've seen are really jacked up. not locking the car in gear and the TCC off. Or locking up the TCC which isn't realistic for most people. Shouldn't need heads to run 11's thats for sure. just a good cam and a verter that keeps you in peak whp and launches hard as hell.

i see very few dyno's that are consistent. look at the dyno's at converter.cc i wonder how they did their charts? seems like alot of folks dont have the tools (tech-2/efilivepro etc) to run the dyno's then wonder why **** doesn't jive with the other guys..

 

Samz28

I usually notice that stuff from certain shops. Ofcourse there are ways to manipulate dyno readings but then you are only fooling yourself or the shop is trying to pimp there product. Either way it is pretty easy to spot them. Its the newbie guys that get screwed. ITs like this whole dynoing wihtout a belt on your car who started that nonsence. I would never do that on the street so it would be pointless. But man that extra 10 hp looks good on someones h/c package when they are advertising it.

I agree 100% with a small cam he should have no problems getting into the 11 on a drag radial with a small converter.

 

exactly. There is a defined procedure to dyno a A4. Locked up dyno's are for tuning or queens but nobody is ever gonna run a 4l60e down the track with 400whp locked up. It will die in no time (or the verter will heave ho).

I was suprised at how LOW my dyno # was, but given the 6000rpm shiftpoint (grrr), it produced results that i was happy with, 4th run (post mod) hit 12.163, now with 6600rpm shiftpoints to keep my "too small" ssf 3500 in power band i might be able to hit the 12.0 or 11.9 (tracks here can get picky on 11's no cage). Thats pretty much as fast as i want to go on a used unbuilt tranny and keep her a daily. I logged my daily drive to work and never exceeded 3000rpm's once to work and back, so 99.9% of my concern is low end power and smooth drivability, any time i try to excercise any right to rpm's lol, the cops seem to be right there. sux.

Those are some damn good #'s btw, i like how the peak is so low in the rpm range i have to spin to 6600 to hit 360whp. Can u tell me more about your setup and post a pic of the dyno.

I seem to have a buttload of torque from my dyno but the hp is a little short.

 

YEs you have monster tq man. If you had a nice low 1.6 60 ft you should go 11.7 np. If you locked that dyno you would have seen another 15 hp but alot less tq.

My old combo i made 366 hp locked and went 11.7@114 all day on stock rims and nitto drag radials and no suspension work
race weight 3600
tr220 cam
vig 3200
pulley
hooker lts
borla cat back
lid

I have since changed my combo twice

Its kinda weird My car is exactly the same as it was before no suspension on the same 245/50/16 nittos so I have a hard time using the new power I added. But I think I catch alot of people off gaurd when they try to race me because my car looks 100% stock. When Im at the track and pop my hood people are always looking for the juice

My car makes that the power so low because it on a 112+4 .The advance brings the power level into a more usable range for me but it stays over 420rwhp through 6800.

I made this post a while back . It details all of my dyno pulls and what was done to the car at that time so you an see the track i took to get here. I didnt just put on a set of heads and any cam. Ive been workin at it for a while SOmeone might find it interesting
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/151803-complete-list-all-my-dyno-runs.html

 

offaxis, now you know you have the sloest POS out there:-P HAHAHHAHA wassup man

I only had one goal though... I just wanted to get from point A to point B quicker. I picked the best heads that i liked and saw perform from the price, saw their et's and current mods/weather conditions, 60ft's and all and made a comparsion. I coulda probably have set on the dyno all day long and eventually found ways to get up to 410+ hp im sure, but i wasnt really worried about that. I just wanted to make sure the A/F was something decent.

you know how I think on racing.. i figure what i ran before and raceweight and what the car should do now. Usually im within a tenth on my guesses.. i mean i wanted to run 11.5's cam only and knew the car would do that... 4 passes and all 11.5's that same day

same, you should have no probs hitting 11's like offaxis said. You just need to get that 60 on the 1.6's atleast. On nittos cam only with your basic same mods I went 11.7@114 also cam only with a 1.64-66 on nittos so you will be there also with a good 60ft. For me now a 1.7+ anything 60ft wise feels like im just sitting there spinning and spinnin so i just let off and cruise down the track LMAO. A 1.6 feels like a plane hit you in the rear compared to a 1.8(u get the idea)

I wasnt expecting 390's when i dynoed.. i was just shooting for 370 LMAO(seriously). If anyone has high expectations then when they dont get what they want, then they are highly ticked off...

in a auto anything above 380 would be nice in my book...

oh and sam, i only shifted my car at 6450 btw i didnt see the need to go any higher