Hydro Locked LS1 - Now What?
#21
I don't know but as soon as it gets warmer out, I'm getting some gasket maker and redoing the weather stripping. New engines ain't cheap lol and also I had the rain problem with a bad gasket on my ECU. Water leaked right in, made some sort of algae color and turned my dash into a Christmas tree. Here's a pic: (when the ls1 was still in)
Attachment 435556
Attachment 435556
#22
Washing the engine off is not enough time for the water to seep past into the intake to cause a problem. Sitting overnight with rain dripping onto it for hrs is.
#23
You unbelievers just dont worry about it. for guys that are curious though the same thing happened to mine and i ended up with a hole larger than a golf ball in my number six cylinder. insurance company told me tough luck and i called another company for an opinion to get the same answer. no cover. i had liability though
#25
My car wasnt driven rain that couldve been sucked in. If you were to suck in water of any amount it would be felt in the whole car from the misfires. Mine sat in my driveway three days through a monsoon lol, no flooding, just non stop rain day and night. Came outside after it quit and roads were dry to start it and boom! Sounded like an old powerstroke out of oil for 2 sec and died
#26
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So what should we do? Just put silicone on the gasket and weather stripping? My car has a crate LS3 in it now.. Has anything changed in the ls3 to prevent flooding?
#27
Thanks everyone for the information. This is my first GM and my first F-body. Warm welcoming huh, lol. The plan is for a rebuilt LS1, cam, LS6 heads and headers. I am trying to get everything used to keep it on a budget.
#28
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
...Tell your friend to call his insurance company......they ALL cover hydralocks from rain, or puddles that rain causes that you might drive through. They call it an Act of God. I know, I got $3,600 in 2012 from heavy rain taking out an engine. Hydralocked it and snapped a rod. All they wanted were pictures.......and they confirmed it rained like hell the days before it happened.
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#33
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
Back to his original question:
You can find LS1 long blocks for a couple of hundred dollars in good running condition.
You can get a junk yard 6.0 for a bit more but it would most likely require a rebuild.
As stated above you can get running good running pull out engines on ebay.
There are a number of places you can get crate engines for $3-4K.
A complete rotating assembly will cost you about $2K by it's self.
I have no idea how much it would cost to weld the starter mount back on but it would require more than your average welding shop to do it right.
The questions you need to ask yourself is do you want to stay stock or go for more power. What are your skill levels and how much of the work are you willing to do yourself? Do you plan to go with a power adder in the future?
Think it out as far as what you might want to do in the future and use this as an opportunity to head that direction and only do it once.
Good luck.
You can find LS1 long blocks for a couple of hundred dollars in good running condition.
You can get a junk yard 6.0 for a bit more but it would most likely require a rebuild.
As stated above you can get running good running pull out engines on ebay.
There are a number of places you can get crate engines for $3-4K.
A complete rotating assembly will cost you about $2K by it's self.
I have no idea how much it would cost to weld the starter mount back on but it would require more than your average welding shop to do it right.
The questions you need to ask yourself is do you want to stay stock or go for more power. What are your skill levels and how much of the work are you willing to do yourself? Do you plan to go with a power adder in the future?
Think it out as far as what you might want to do in the future and use this as an opportunity to head that direction and only do it once.
Good luck.
#34
You can buy a starter bridge here http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html 370 dollars is insane but it will save you from welding the block
#35
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
You can buy a starter bridge here http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html 370 dollars is insane but it will save you from welding the block
#39
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
I'd buy a used 6L without much reservation. Take it .030" over to clean up any problems, mill the deck if needed, and have it thoroughly cleaned and magnafluxed and checked by the machine shop (lifter bores, main bore, cam bore etc). Line honed as necessary, etc.
Used LS1 would take more... since you can really only hone the cylinders. If something went bad and you needed to take it out .020" or so to clean up rust or damage... well that ain't happening.
Used LS1 would take more... since you can really only hone the cylinders. If something went bad and you needed to take it out .020" or so to clean up rust or damage... well that ain't happening.
#40
Lastly I take a gob of silicone in my hand and force it onto the bottom of each large and small plastic rivet that holds the cowling on.
Usually it takes quite a bit of time to get it all sealed properly, when you think you have it all sealed use a hose on the top of the cowl and test it.
Water should not drip anyplace onto the engine. Usually I find a lot of small places I missed around the rivet holes. Just keep using your hand to pack silicone from the bottom of each rivet till they stop leaking water.
I always check the next time it rains that nothing is dripping after its raining a few hrs.
ALSO BE SURE TO TIGHTEN YOUR INTAKE BOLTS<89 inch lbs<proper way to tighten them is to loosen them 2 full turns then retighten in proper sequence in 3 steps.
Sorry the weather is too nasty here to take pictures right now.
Last edited by RockinWs6; 02-02-2014 at 10:23 PM.