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Hydro Locked LS1 - Now What?

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Old 02-04-2014, 09:49 AM
  #41  
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The other option is to cut your cowl off completely and run a Super Victor.
Old 02-04-2014, 09:55 AM
  #42  
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sounds like when my intake swap is done those suckers are getting torqued in 3 steps with threadlocker. they won't be backing out.

Sealing the cowl is a different story...i'd pay someone to do that...i play with RTV enough at my job to know im sick of that crap...
Old 02-04-2014, 10:36 AM
  #43  
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Well its not only do they back out the aluminum engine moves around so much expansion and contraction as it heats up and then cools down that things come loose. I think the Nylon intake also shrinks a bit over time and changes.

I've tightened the intake bolts every 10k and every time they need it.

You would think engineers could come up with a much system to get air into the cylinders.
Old 02-10-2014, 01:47 AM
  #44  
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Thanks for the responses everyone. I am the owner of this car my buddy posted this for me before I was a member. I got a LS1 short block for 750 that I am going to have the machine shop go through. The plan is ls6 heads, that I picked up, and a nice street cam.
Old 02-10-2014, 04:03 AM
  #45  
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Now doesn't this all seem soooooooooooooo familiar!

Did you see my post MX6.0?
Old 02-10-2014, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
I'll explain how I do it, I run a bead of silicone along the rubber seal under it to seal it to the plastic cowl. Then I put plastic gloves on and run a bead of silicone along the frt edge of the cowling where it meets the metal, you have to use your hands to pack it into the space. Run silicone in the gap then use your fingers to push it into all the gaps along the frt.

Lastly I take a gob of silicone in my hand and force it onto the bottom of each large and small plastic rivet that holds the cowling on.
Usually it takes quite a bit of time to get it all sealed properly, when you think you have it all sealed use a hose on the top of the cowl and test it.
Water should not drip anyplace onto the engine. Usually I find a lot of small places I missed around the rivet holes. Just keep using your hand to pack silicone from the bottom of each rivet till they stop leaking water.

I always check the next time it rains that nothing is dripping after its raining a few hrs.

ALSO BE SURE TO TIGHTEN YOUR INTAKE BOLTS<89 inch lbs<proper way to tighten them is to loosen them 2 full turns then retighten in proper sequence in 3 steps.

Sorry the weather is too nasty here to take pictures right now.
Thanks for those directions.wish we had pictures though.I started a thread like this a month ago in the general firebird sub forum. Some people didn't believe this could happen either.
Old 02-10-2014, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by HerHawk
Now doesn't this all seem soooooooooooooo familiar!

Did you see my post MX6.0?
Hah, I missed it before. Looks like it's not an uncommon problem.
Old 02-25-2014, 09:31 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
Well its not only do they back out the aluminum engine moves around so much expansion and contraction as it heats up and then cools down that things come loose. I think the Nylon intake also shrinks a bit over time and changes.

I've tightened the intake bolts every 10k and every time they need it.

You would think engineers could come up with a much system to get air into the cylinders.
Sounds like a good plan it to check and re-torque them at every oil change.

I don't trust "composite" intake manifolds . . . That's why my new stroker will be getting an aluminum intake !



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