What oil pump and pan. sounds like you had a oiling issue if it was not making 80psi at wot this is prob a good place to look. What were the clearances on the rod and mains

Tim

 

Fbody pan, stock ported pump with shimmed spring. Don't know the clearances - had a well-reputed shop do the machining and gave me back the assembled short block. I did the rest.

 

Prob dumb question but can I just throw new bearings in it, plastiguage for clearance and be done? Or should it go back to the machine shop?

 

No it needs to come apart.

The f body pan sucks. The pickup placement is bad capacity is low. The turbo are two leaks in your oiling that you need to make up for in oil pump volume. Just shimming the bypass is not going to cut it. You need a increase in volume.

Tim at the car shop inc has a line of pumps that can be sized to your needs. I have been using their pumps with prefect results. Sam school has been doing alot of r&d work with these pumps. Judd is really happy with them.

It is well known the shimmed ls6 pump is the ticket but there are guys burning stuff up due to oiling issues with them.

Mine see 7500 and never gets below 80psi with ls30 at 200 degrees

Tim

 

Negligence or incompetence from the shop . . .

 

Thanks for the help guys. Yeah i got a Melling HV pump, thats actually why I was digging into the motor in the first place, to install the new pump. Got it torn down today so the short block will go back into the shop this week.

Thanks for the replies.

 

What pan do you run Tim? I do have a truck pan laying around but my car is so low I'm afraid it will hit something. I'll have to measure how much deeper that truck pan is.

 

I'm guessing that big groove isn't supposed to be ground into the crank. Will that be fixable, or am I shopping for a new crank??

 

Moroso pan. Bunch of little things done to the pickup tube and pump to reduce leaks and reduce the restriction of getting the oil into the pump.

Tim

 

Was the engine fitted w/ a catch can? If so, was the can filled w/ steel wool? If so, that may explaign the "wool in the pan".......
Looks as tho that crank is junk...

 

Nope, no steel wool in the can. I think its just shavings from the crank. If my crank can't be fixed I'll prob go with a Callies compstar. Anyone know which of the sponsors would have the best deal?

 

Hey, that looks familiar. At 40ish endplay the crank counterweights rub the block's main webbing Here's mine:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...ew-engine.html

 

Exactly. Pull the converter bolts loose and see if the converter has any clearance between the flywheel. I blued the thrust on mine one time and always check that now.

 

Yep thats what mine is doing. I wonder how common these thrust issues are..

 

Ask the shop if they checked crank end play. Tony Mamo says he see's thrust bearings too tight often causing failure. He normally has to flat sand the bearings on glass to get the tolerance in spec.

I know there is a possibility of it being a TC issue but I would also seriously look at the thrust clearance issues. How hard has it been driven since the rebuild?

 

Also the "steel wool" looks like left over scotch brite pads.

 

dang sorry to see this OP, I hate looking at threads like these...

but you are not alone, everyone that's been doing this long enough has seen something random like this...

 

Oiling issues are more likely of the cause of the thrust failure. Killed a couple and one was trans related the other was a oiling problem.

Tim

 

Is the shop going to stand behind their work and "make it right" or are they refusing to do anything for you ?

If not, what is the name and location of the shop in question ?

 

Yeah its a long story. I didn't check end play when I got it back the first time. I will check it myself this time before assembling the rest. As for the trans, it had a low line pressure issue...could never get enough pressure to lock the converter. There was a good 1/8 clearance on converter to flexplate. Weird thing is its the thrust face towards the rear of the engine. Most of these stories are the front face from the converter pushing the crank forward.

Also I did have an oil pressure issue (probably due to bleeding off oil to 2 turbos using a stock oil pump as pointed out by Tim). I ran Brad Penn 20/50 to bring up the pressure, but it probably wasn't enough.