Thee Antic

iTrader: (1)

Ok, first up. My donor is a 2000/2001 (Owner swears its 2001, but it has EGR?) LS1 out of a Camaro SS. It is going into a BMW M3. Don't judge. Daily driven, nothing but. MAYBE an autoX event or two. Not it's intended purpose though.

So I get the engine, take the old manifolds off and see that the valve seals are shot. Well. Time for a full rebuild I had already bought a ton of gaskets and a BBK intake (cheaper than ls6 after my JEGS discount) prior to finding this out so I'm in pretty good shape.

I am currently the highest bidder on a set of 243 heads (came with 853's) that I am going to leave stock just mill, valve job (3 or 5?), and depending on wear maybe a cheap set of valves/guides (Recommendations?)

TSR 228R cam, ls7 lifters, ls6 ported oil pump, ls2 timing chain and some chromoly pushrods. Stock rockers with Comp caged bearings?

I want to keep the bottom end completely stock. It is a ~70k mile engine so I shouldn't have many problems. I need to do a lot of research but I hope that I can disassemble the bottom end, bring it to a machine shop and have them do their thing (hone, polish crank, balance? I have no idea) then give it back to me to re-assemble worry free (No plasti-guage b.s, measuring etc). Should save me about $500.

As far as numbers go I'm keeping this on a budget, so anywhere close to 400RWHP will make me happy. Streetability is my main concern. Also, I do NOT want to touch the engine for at least 50k miles.

Thanks for reading guys, any tips, advice, recommendations etc. etc. you might have, please comment.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Reasonable goals I think. Are you planning on running any sort of aftermarket headers instead of the stock manifolds?

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

Does not touching the engine include not changing/checking valvesprings? If so, that will limit your choices on cams. You could always go ported heads and an OEM cam, or maybe a custom grind on grandpa lobes and make near or more than 400/400, but that'll be more expensive than cam only.


Either settle with the fact that valve spring maintenance is a must, or bump up your budget, only two options I see

Thee Antic

iTrader: (1)

I forgot the valve spring part. Yes, I will be replacing the springs. Any reccomendations? What about retainers? Necessary?

And Im good with no port work. Too costly.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

If it came with 853's, I would say it's prbably a 2000 model motor. I think the 01's had 241's on them. What injector p/n does it have?

Thee Antic

iTrader: (1)

The casting number narrowed it down to a 2000 or 2001. I am now almost positive it is a 2000.

Also I will be using swap specific long tubes.

Thee Antic

iTrader: (1)

The block casting number that is.

I just finished tearing down the engine. Bearings look new, crank is shiny, bores still show cross hatching. Pistons look great, although I did notice all of them have a small circle wear spot/discoloration in the same place. Is this normal?

Due to this the plan is new bearings, rings, arp everything, hone, cam bearings, freeze plugs, hot tank. Do I need to balance the rotating assembly since its all stock? I only ask because its an extra $250.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

FWIW, my car is a 2000 and it had 241's on it.

I wouldn't worry about balancing the crank if everything is stock. The new parts shouldn't really make much of a difference.