Jc803

iTrader: (2)

I bought the comp cams head on motor valve spring compressor. But when i compress the springs the valve moves down with everything else.

I've tried smacking the retainers with a hammer.

I've tried the TDC method hoping that the valve will hit the top of the piston and release itself.

I've tried using an air fitting to keep the valve pushed closed. As i tighten the bolt the valves move down anyways and the air gets released

If it helps, I'm replacing the retainers, valve spring, seats, and stem seals, so i don't care if i have to damage anything but the valve.

I'm two seconds away from zapping the springs with a plasma cutter

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Is it possible to stick something in the spark plug hole to push up on the valve with?

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Never mind. Even if it did work on one you wouldn't be able to do both

RockinWs6

You aint whacking the retainers hard enough or at the right angle.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

After you hook up the air pressure to the cylinder, hold a 7/8" socket upside down on the retainer. Then hit the socket sharply with a hammer.

Russ Kemp

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=203

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

My only problem is, that would work for half the cylinders. In the rear i have about 3 inches of swing. Trying to find a way that would work for the rear too.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to remove the heads

KCS

iTrader: (20)

How much air pressure?

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Not sure. But it should be a lot. Im doing this at a shop with an air compressor taller than I am

Mike_hawk

I've never used air, I've always just shoved rope through the spark plug hole. Have the piston slightly below tdc, then rotate the crank to compress the rope and to put pressure on your valves.

.boB

iTrader: (1)

That happens a lot, because over time you get a little varnish in there that sort of glues everything together.

Spray a drop of Easy Off oven cleaner on top of the keepers and let it sit for a few hours. You might even want to do that a couple of times.

Then use a good penetrating oi. Like a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid, and let that sit for a while. WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

When you whack it with a hammer, hit the outside edge of the keeper. For those that you can't reach well, get piece of steel long enough to reach the keeper, and whack that with a hammer. Be sure to use a sturdy piece so that it transmits the force instead of absorbing it.

DO NOT place the piston at TDC and push down on the valve. That can bend the valve stem. All you need to do is bend the valve stem about 0.5mm or so and it won't seal.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I've popped some pretty stubborn retainers off with shop air. It helps to have at least 90-110psi and a good quality air hose.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

The size of the compressor has little to do with it, Most have regulators set at 90lbs-100lbs for air tools. I would verify the pressure, We used 150psi to change valve springs.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

Guys, pardon my ignorance. I have no experience with this, but is it possible/safe bump the retainer with an air hammer to jar it loose? Just wondering. Considering everything is getting replaced.

cacmanjr

iTrader: (14)

If you choose to use this method, be sure to turn the engine by hand!

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Well since I cant hit the rear retainers with a hammer, this rope deal is sounding pretty good.

Also, since I have determined that the design of the comp cams spring compressor is pure junk, I went ahead and spent about $220 for the LSM sc-167. Sounds expensive, but its worth it if you factor in the price for all those gaskets and time to pull the heads. Hopefully between that and the rope trick I can get them.

@ Spy2520, I wouldnt use an air hammer and chance it slipping and hitting anything

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Which Comp tool are you using? The LSM you mention buying looks nearly just like it.

If you don't pay attention when torquing the compressor down it will put too much sideways angle on the keepers. Use a medium to screwdriver to lightly pry it around and they will likely come loose.

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

@Thunderstruck507, you're exactly right. The angle starts off good on the comp compressor and as you tighten the angle progressively gets worse. I'm glad I'm not the only one that noticed that.

I found out the hard way by bending all 4 of the supplied bolts while in the head. Thank goodness the bolts are cheap because something is going to bend, either the bolts or the head threads, and i would have screamed if i had damaged my afr heads.

The compressor that i bought is somewhat the same but the biggest difference is that it swivels which will keep the angle where it needs to be.

I honestly think that because the comp one pushes at the wrong angle it puts pressure on the keepers not allowing them to release

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

The supplied bolts with the Comp compressor were too short, replaced them with slightly longer grade 8 ones and make sure you lube the round tip of the bolt that compresses the spring portion and it worked like a charm.