New here, thought I share my LQ4 build with everyone.
06-11-2014, 09:28 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Sweet! I'll be following your build. I'm doing the same thing except I went with a set of Speed pro pistons (.030) and stock rods and since I have a gen iv block it came with the free floating wrist pins which I hear are a little stronger. I'm trying to keep the budget down and have the motor built in a couple months and ready to drop into my gto. Good luck with the build!
06-11-2014, 11:58 PM
#25
Sweet! I'll be following your build. I'm doing the same thing except I went with a set of Speed pro pistons (.030) and stock rods and since I have a gen iv block it came with the free floating wrist pins which I hear are a little stronger. I'm trying to keep the budget down and have the motor built in a couple months and ready to drop into my gto. Good luck with the build!
The next task once I get the short block done is to work on the 317 heads, I don't plan on sending them out to port, but I plan on upgrading the valves, springs, rockers and lifters.
Last edited by AnimeFunTV; 06-12-2014 at 12:04 AM.
06-12-2014, 11:26 PM
#26
New Pics, Parts & Tools.
Pistons, Rods, & Piston ring filer (btw the filer will be for sale once I'm done with it)
Picked up a engine cleaning kit from Harbor Freight Tools.
Ran into a bit of snag, the coupler of the extension will not fit into the oil gally for the lifters.
Easy Fix, basically I had to grind the the quick coupler down a bit.
I also put some tape to keep at the base of the coupler to keep it from disconnecting inside the block. Even if it did, not to big of a deal. Just grab a long ratchet extension and just push the brush out the other end.
Brushes really work well. I used the "gold" brushes for most of the work. Used a cordless drill to clean out all the galleys.
One thing I want to mention, I did chase all the threads except the Main and Head threads since they are odd ball thread size. Using the "silver" brushes (picture has "gold" brush before I changed it), it cleaned the threads really nice! I did a once over with the main bolts and head bolts and they all threaded in easily by hand. I didn't use the drill to clean the threads, used the handle to have more control. I had the handle sandwiched between the palm of my hand and just went back and forth, rolling the handle in my hands. I put pressure downward to make the brush go with the threads, occasionally I would press the handle down into the hole till it reached, then I would rotate the handle till the brush came out like a bolt, pushing any gunk out.
I think tomorrow I will begin working on filing the rings. Once I'm done, the ring filer will be up for sale for anyone who is looking for one.
Pistons, Rods, & Piston ring filer (btw the filer will be for sale once I'm done with it)
Picked up a engine cleaning kit from Harbor Freight Tools.
Ran into a bit of snag, the coupler of the extension will not fit into the oil gally for the lifters.
Easy Fix, basically I had to grind the the quick coupler down a bit.
I also put some tape to keep at the base of the coupler to keep it from disconnecting inside the block. Even if it did, not to big of a deal. Just grab a long ratchet extension and just push the brush out the other end.
Brushes really work well. I used the "gold" brushes for most of the work. Used a cordless drill to clean out all the galleys.
One thing I want to mention, I did chase all the threads except the Main and Head threads since they are odd ball thread size. Using the "silver" brushes (picture has "gold" brush before I changed it), it cleaned the threads really nice! I did a once over with the main bolts and head bolts and they all threaded in easily by hand. I didn't use the drill to clean the threads, used the handle to have more control. I had the handle sandwiched between the palm of my hand and just went back and forth, rolling the handle in my hands. I put pressure downward to make the brush go with the threads, occasionally I would press the handle down into the hole till it reached, then I would rotate the handle till the brush came out like a bolt, pushing any gunk out.
I think tomorrow I will begin working on filing the rings. Once I'm done, the ring filer will be up for sale for anyone who is looking for one.
Last edited by AnimeFunTV; 07-06-2014 at 05:43 PM.
06-12-2014, 11:42 PM
#29
06-27-2014, 11:50 PM
#31
Status Update Well just thought I'd share whats been happening thus far.
I've been going back and forth with the machine shop. Nothing bad, I had the blocked decked and squared up so it will be ready for the heads when I get started on them.
Also deburred as much of the block I could, mainly because the damn block has so many sharp edges. So after all that I had the block washed at the machine shop, had to replace the cam bearings once again.
After all that the block was ready for paint and assembly, went with Chevy Orange (obviously), I also pre-assembled all the bearings on the rods and mains to check clearances. Crank clearances came out to be .0020 to .0025 respectively, the rods however came out to be a little looser that I wanted. Rod clearances came to be around .0030 to .0035. Being that both the mains and rods are .030 undersized on the crank, there isn't much I can do other than swap out the rod bearings for another brand, so I did. Both crank and main were Clevite 77's Tri-Metal, I bought some Sealed Power A-Series Bi-Metal rod bearings, personally I seemed to like these better, they have a better surface that feels "floaty" but they too seem a bit on the loose side. I got .0030 to .0033. Since they don't make any adjustment bearings for undersized bearings, my only other option is to probably call the guys at Cradin Industries and see how much it would be to add a little coating to the bearings. I really don't want to spend more money than I have to. Plus the crank is machined to the proper measurements, I already triple checked that so the crank is fine.
Lastly, I tried fitting in the camshaft but it too was getting me problems. I cleaned the camshaft from all the machining oils and when it was fitted it definitely had way to much resistance and it felt like it had a high spot. Since I just had new bearings put it, I went ahead and took both the cam and block back to the machine shop for diagnosis on what's going on, I dunno if the cam bearings got installed wrong or if the camshaft need a little touch up. I'll get that news saturday.
I've been going back and forth with the machine shop. Nothing bad, I had the blocked decked and squared up so it will be ready for the heads when I get started on them.
Also deburred as much of the block I could, mainly because the damn block has so many sharp edges. So after all that I had the block washed at the machine shop, had to replace the cam bearings once again.
After all that the block was ready for paint and assembly, went with Chevy Orange (obviously), I also pre-assembled all the bearings on the rods and mains to check clearances. Crank clearances came out to be .0020 to .0025 respectively, the rods however came out to be a little looser that I wanted. Rod clearances came to be around .0030 to .0035. Being that both the mains and rods are .030 undersized on the crank, there isn't much I can do other than swap out the rod bearings for another brand, so I did. Both crank and main were Clevite 77's Tri-Metal, I bought some Sealed Power A-Series Bi-Metal rod bearings, personally I seemed to like these better, they have a better surface that feels "floaty" but they too seem a bit on the loose side. I got .0030 to .0033. Since they don't make any adjustment bearings for undersized bearings, my only other option is to probably call the guys at Cradin Industries and see how much it would be to add a little coating to the bearings. I really don't want to spend more money than I have to. Plus the crank is machined to the proper measurements, I already triple checked that so the crank is fine.
Lastly, I tried fitting in the camshaft but it too was getting me problems. I cleaned the camshaft from all the machining oils and when it was fitted it definitely had way to much resistance and it felt like it had a high spot. Since I just had new bearings put it, I went ahead and took both the cam and block back to the machine shop for diagnosis on what's going on, I dunno if the cam bearings got installed wrong or if the camshaft need a little touch up. I'll get that news saturday.
06-28-2014, 07:15 AM
#32
I've found that the cam bearings like to run too tight. I had to open up the bores on my LS1 block. Used 2000grit sand paper and took it slow. It's usually 2-4 that will be tight. 1 and 5 are usually okay.
On an iron block you may need to use something a little more aggressive than 2000 grit.
On an iron block you may need to use something a little more aggressive than 2000 grit.
07-07-2014, 01:17 AM
#33
New Pic's, Paint and pre-assembly New photos.
Engine Painted
Main Bearing clearances. Just a note, it may seem that the plastigauge is very tight, but the temp inside the shop was very hot so it may have made the plastigauge much more softer than normal.
Pistons & Rod's assembled, test fitted new Bi-Metal Sealed Power bearings. Personally, I like these, they seem to have a much more "floaty" surface than the Clevite Tri-Metal Bearings I had before.
Engine Painted
Main Bearing clearances. Just a note, it may seem that the plastigauge is very tight, but the temp inside the shop was very hot so it may have made the plastigauge much more softer than normal.
Pistons & Rod's assembled, test fitted new Bi-Metal Sealed Power bearings. Personally, I like these, they seem to have a much more "floaty" surface than the Clevite Tri-Metal Bearings I had before.
07-07-2014, 01:22 AM
#34
I've found that the cam bearings like to run too tight. I had to open up the bores on my LS1 block. Used 2000grit sand paper and took it slow. It's usually 2-4 that will be tight. 1 and 5 are usually okay.
On an iron block you may need to use something a little more aggressive than 2000 grit.
On an iron block you may need to use something a little more aggressive than 2000 grit.
07-08-2014, 06:15 PM
#35
TECH Fanatic
Nice build! I have the same pistons, same rods, same rod bearings, and same ring filing tool on my workbench right now 
Just check to make sure you have at least 0.015" end gap on the top and bottom oil rings. The middle wavy ring should have no end gap.
On the main clearance, the minimum recommended I've seen for an iron block LS motor is 0.0024".
Did you check the clearance on the cam bearings with your bore gauge?
Just check to make sure you have at least 0.015" end gap on the top and bottom oil rings. The middle wavy ring should have no end gap.
On the main clearance, the minimum recommended I've seen for an iron block LS motor is 0.0024".
Did you check the clearance on the cam bearings with your bore gauge?
07-08-2014, 06:20 PM
#36
TECH Fanatic
07-09-2014, 03:46 AM
#38
Nice build! I have the same pistons, same rods, same rod bearings, and same ring filing tool on my workbench right now
Just check to make sure you have at least 0.015" end gap on the top and bottom oil rings. The middle wavy ring should have no end gap.
On the main clearance, the minimum recommended I've seen for an iron block LS motor is 0.0024".
Did you check the clearance on the cam bearings with your bore gauge?
Just check to make sure you have at least 0.015" end gap on the top and bottom oil rings. The middle wavy ring should have no end gap.
On the main clearance, the minimum recommended I've seen for an iron block LS motor is 0.0024".
Did you check the clearance on the cam bearings with your bore gauge?
It was a little confusing for the rods and mains, doing the bore measurements I had about .0020 to .0030 respectively. With the Plastigage it was much more tighter, then again, the shop was quite hot and the Plastigage may have been much softer since the metals were warmer than they should have been. All I really wanted to do is just make sure all the clearances where consistent.
I didn't check the clearances on the cam, I had the machine shop take care of that for me.
Last edited by AnimeFunTV; 07-09-2014 at 03:58 AM.
