Thee Antic

iTrader: (1)

Goal: Have a car that feels fast at any rpm.

When I drive on a random day sure I might bang a few gears but most of the time I'm driving pretty modestly, granny shifting at ~4k. I want that to still be enjoyable, I don't want to feel like I have to bang it off the rev limiter to get thrown back in my seat. I want power everywhere.

I thought I had mentioned the gears in a prior reply, my mistake. I can easily throw in a 3.73, 3.91, 4.10 gearset..but my thinking was that on my specific swap (BMW M3) which not only has IRS (I believe IRS<live axle as far as traction goes) but is very limited on how much rubber I can put back there, the 3.38 would be better off. Correct me if I am wrong? Maybe it is still worth swapping to something else.

And maybe I should stick with the 228r, but at the same time why not explore my options? It's brand new, in packaging. So it will be easy to sell at a minimal loss.

I picked the 228r back when I was planning on using stock heads, stock compression ratio etc. My build has come a long way from back then..I guess I just feel I should make the change to a newer tech cam while I'm at it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I personally think that cam, and others near that size, are a great all around cam. They do make very broad power bands, they are a nice middle ground. Any higher and low end suffers, any lower and top end starts to suffer. Gearing is a sure fire way to add that all around power feel, but then traction becomes an issue, and your limited by tire size. So then you need gear and a stickier tire right? But this is your daily so you want an all season? See where I'm going. There is gonna be a compromise, it will exist whether you accept it or go out kicking and screaming. The point of modding is to take the losses that are less important and gain the ones you value. So, that being said I vote run the 228 and do a gear swap for that feeling your after....and deal with the traction consequences.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Change isn't always Good !

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

So the car isn't even put together and driving yet?

If the cam is still new in the box maybe someone could spec you something that would make a touch more under the curve but you are still going to lose money on it and if you haven't even driven it yet, the 228r might be exactly what you are wanting.

I would expect traction problems down low no matter which cam or gear you put in it. But more aggressive gearing should still help in higher gears of the trans.

jb3golf

Ok...now I'm confused. ...have you EVER even driven a 228r cam? If not...what other cam profiles have YOU experienced? Otherwise you don't even have a baseline by which to judge ANY cam for that matter...

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

^^^^^dats da troof.

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

I had it and didn't really like it. It didn't really "light off" until about 3-3.5k RPM. After that it was a lot of fun. Mines was on a 114 LSA though.

I'd want a cam that really took off at 2.5k, even if it meant that it fell off a little at the top.

42273

iTrader: (3)

ive been in your position before trying to decide on cams and started with a 228r . it is a good cam and will put out some power but if you have bigger cams on your mind you should go with it or else you will be changing again like i did !!
not much difference in driveability from a 228r to a 233/240 imo. but i picked up 3 tenths in the 1/4 in worse d/a and partial tuned.

Thee Antic

iTrader: (1)

Nope. Never even driven/rode in an LS car.

That doesn't mean I can't make an educated, informed decision on what cam I should choose based on other peoples experience's and supporting dyno graphs. Will that only get me so far? Yes. Do I care or have any other choice? No.

Going off of this comment, and the fact that Martin from tick emphasized this as well, I'm leaning towards the Sns stage 2. If Ed had a little more info on what type of lobes he uses I would probably go with the street sweeper just because he practicaly wrote the book on all of this stuff..but alas, no luck. I'm going to study some dyno graphs and get back to ya'll.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

That is as much the nature of the LS engines as anything. I would guess due to head design. Even my 5.3 truck with the stock cam has a noticeable pick up in the higher RPMs.

My 230/224 also came on HARD at around 3-3.5k on the stock converter, after the stall converter went in WOT means the car instantly jumps to 3600-4000rpm. Hence why anyone with an LS car wanting performance is wise to get a mid 3000s converter as a priority. Let the engine eat where it was made to eat.

Tuning the PE entry sections of the tune can also help with this, GM sets it fairly high in the RPMs.

jb3golf

I appreciate your quote here...lol...However the SNS Cams are a mixture of lsl, huc and lxl lobes. The lobes on these cams are designed for valvetrain stability. ..i never said these lobes are mild and easy....i said they are EASIER hence more stable on the valvetrain versus XER lobes.... this is my understanding of how Martin Smallwood designed them..NOW if I'm wrong or inaccurate on those statements. .Please enlighten me...A person of respect and wisdom not only shares what is misunderstood. .they have the quality and character to provide helpful information to clear those misunderstandings up....imo

MikeWS6

The 228R with either budget 5.3 or ls6 heads would put down over 420rwhp. Mine did on a low reading mustang dyno.

1 Slow WS6

iTrader: (1)

Here is a graph of what the 228 R did in my car. Out of box AFR 205 heads were used.