Is it possible to replace the rod and/or main bearings w/o taking out the rods?
#1
I'm replacing the oil pan of my ls1 outside the car and I'm wondering if it is possible to change the bearings while I'm there.
"Why" is a long story. And yes I know the right way is a complete rebuild.
But right now, I just want to know if this job is doable.
"Why" is a long story. And yes I know the right way is a complete rebuild.
But right now, I just want to know if this job is doable.
Last edited by Freefallin; 08-10-2014 at 02:37 PM.
#5
10 Second Club
outside the car, yes. I've done it several times on SBC'S. but like mentioned I pulled the crank right out. you'll also need a few feet of fuel line on hand to put roughly 8-10" of hose on each rod bolt to help guide the rods back onto the crank. and an extra pair of hands. the fuel line is 100% necessary as the rod bolt can very very easily nick the rod journals on the crank.
you can do just the rod bearings with the crank still in the engine by taking out the spark plugs. this allows you to move the piston\rod up and down to get at the bearings. I still recommend the fuel line on the rod bolts however.
you can do just the rod bearings with the crank still in the engine by taking out the spark plugs. this allows you to move the piston\rod up and down to get at the bearings. I still recommend the fuel line on the rod bolts however.
#6
outside the car, yes. I've done it several times on SBC'S. but like mentioned I pulled the crank right out. you'll also need a few feet of fuel line on hand to put roughly 8-10" of hose on each rod bolt to help guide the rods back onto the crank. and an extra pair of hands. the fuel line is 100% necessary as the rod bolt can very very easily nick the rod journals on the crank.
you can do just the rod bearings with the crank still in the engine by taking out the spark plugs. this allows you to move the piston\rod up and down to get at the bearings. I still recommend the fuel line on the rod bolts however.
you can do just the rod bearings with the crank still in the engine by taking out the spark plugs. this allows you to move the piston\rod up and down to get at the bearings. I still recommend the fuel line on the rod bolts however.
#7
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You can replace the rod bearings without removing the rods and the lower half of the main bearings but replacing upper main bearing half will sure be tricky on a V8,
If not removing engine, main bearings best be left alone.
If not removing engine, main bearings best be left alone.
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#8
10 Second Club
correct. some people will "roll" new mains in with the crank in, but unless you're highly experienced I strongly suggest you remove the crank all together to replace the mains.
#9
LSX Mechanic
iTrader: (89)
I've done tons of rod bearing patches inside the car, but I don't recommend trying main bearings because you can feasibly only access the bottom side bearing. If trying to get to the top side you might as well take the motor out because it'd probably be less work than taking everything off to remove the crank all while suspending the block in the air.
#12
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
outside the car, yes. I've done it several times on SBC'S. but like mentioned I pulled the crank right out. you'll also need a few feet of fuel line on hand to put roughly 8-10" of hose on each rod bolt to help guide the rods back onto the crank. and an extra pair of hands. the fuel line is 100% necessary as the rod bolt can very very easily nick the rod journals on the crank.
you can do just the rod bearings with the crank still in the engine by taking out the spark plugs. this allows you to move the piston\rod up and down to get at the bearings. I still recommend the fuel line on the rod bolts however.
you can do just the rod bearings with the crank still in the engine by taking out the spark plugs. this allows you to move the piston\rod up and down to get at the bearings. I still recommend the fuel line on the rod bolts however.
#14
Launching!
Cotter pin
Hello,
You can flatten a cotter pin lower than the bearing to push the top bearing out. As you turn the crank. Do one bearing set at a time. Pump heavy oil (STP and oil mix) up the rod oil feed hole after the new bearings are installed.
Hope that helps.
You can flatten a cotter pin lower than the bearing to push the top bearing out. As you turn the crank. Do one bearing set at a time. Pump heavy oil (STP and oil mix) up the rod oil feed hole after the new bearings are installed.
Hope that helps.
#15
Launching!
Ooppss
I just looked at the dates!