Need electrical help, for real.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
From: Ooltewah, TN
Need electrical help, for real. Hey guys, I need some help. Lately my truck has had a hard time starting. When I go to start it , I have nothing. I have a brand new battery, new alternator and new starter, new safety neutral switch, new relays. I think it's something having to do with the ignition. The electrical connection that goes to the starter solenoid is good. The weird thing is sometimes I'll let it sit if I can't get it to start and come back to it later.... sometimes, when it does actually start, If you hold the key down for like 10 seconds it will start but it doesn't happen much. Sometimes if I climb under the truck and wiggle the starter solenoid wire it will start if it's in the right spot but its not consistent, kinda rare too. Is there a problem at the ignition switch? could it be there gear shifter column or something around there? where should I start?
thanks
thanks
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
I would check/replace the battery cables. They may be loose either at the block/starter, or at the battery or have corrosion that is not letting enough amps through for starting. When you try to start it does it lose all electrical power when it just clicks? You may get more help by posting in a section that is better related to your post
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
From: Ooltewah, TN
battery cables are good and tight. I haven't seen any corrosion. It doesn't click at all. If it does start, it will start right up. If it doesn't start, it doesn't nothing. i have lights, fuel pump kicks on..all that. I just saw a better section to post in. thanks.
To isolate, I would disconnect the key to solenoid wire, at the starter.
Then, prepare a hotwire, at least 10ga, to be run from the + battery to the solenoid (small lug). On this hotwire, be sure to wire a 20 amp fuse in the middle, to protect your solenoid. Connect one end to the + post on battery. Then, touch the other end to the solenoid, until it starts (or not).
If this starts the engine, you've at least isolated the battery/solenoid/starter section.
Then, prepare a hotwire, at least 10ga, to be run from the + battery to the solenoid (small lug). On this hotwire, be sure to wire a 20 amp fuse in the middle, to protect your solenoid. Connect one end to the + post on battery. Then, touch the other end to the solenoid, until it starts (or not).
If this starts the engine, you've at least isolated the battery/solenoid/starter section.
(for you folks thinking "uh-oh, that grouchy mod dude is gonna scream WRONG SECTION" I just can't find a section this might fit better into so I'll not make a fuss about this one. SEE?? I am a nice guy!!)
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
From: Ooltewah, TN
^thanks everyone. I have searched high and low and can't get a straight answer on the actual problem. So I will share what I think it is. I noticed I could get it to crank until I put the gauges back in, after tracing wires and such. So I thought it might have to do with the gauges or wires to the gauges. So I pulled on the connector's wires that go to the back of the gauges. It wouldn't start. Pushed on the wires a little and sure enough it started. I did it about 5 times. It has cranked ever since then. The only thing is now the security light is on and it threw a few different codes. It would die when I gave it gas. I have hp tuners and relinked the vats and that helped but the security light is still on... ?
First, please tell us exactly what vehicle this is, it's year, engine and mileage.
Second, the gauges have no effect on whether the engine starts or runs.
Third, it sounds like you have a VATS issue. Are you using a different ignition key?
Second, the gauges have no effect on whether the engine starts or runs.
Third, it sounds like you have a VATS issue. Are you using a different ignition key?
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
From: Ooltewah, TN
2003 GMC sierra. 170,000 miles. Same ignition key. Are the 3 small wires on top of the cylinder the vat wires? Idk but I when I pull on the gauge wires it won't start and when i push them into the connector going to the gauges it will start.
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Verdad Gallardo Seems like the solenoid wire at the key is going open.
Is it possible that when you pull on the gauge wires, that you're also tugging on the solenoid wire?
Is it possible that when you pull on the gauge wires, that you're also tugging on the solenoid wire?
Last edited by gMAG; Sep 4, 2014 at 10:18 PM.