So, my rebuilder sold me on an aluminum long block for a mockup project. I belive it is the 5.3 LH6 block

Engine actually spins and there are no bent valves. All valves (on the back side) look as they should, so, it looks like a normal running engine, eg no clean or discolored valve from a blown head gasket. I figure worst case scenario, worn cyl liners or a spun bearing. Has the 799 heads, so, as long as those are not cracked, I guess I will keep those.

I plan to video tape the condition of the cylinders and then I will paint them so i can use the block outside as a mockup block and not worry about the cylinders rusting.

I was thinking "maybe" to get another block for mockup and rebuild this one, but, it is totaly diff than the gen III blocks. 58 reluctor, engine management system, cam sensor in a diff place, yada yada yada..........

With all that in mind, since this is a transplant in to a totaly diff vehicle, I dont think I should mess with it and just sell it back out after the mockup is complete. I know a lot of you are going to say "you can get around all that", but, is it really worth it sinc ei want to be with a 5.7/6.0? I mean, if it were/was a complate gen III 5.3 24 reluctor and had all its parts, no brainer, I would just do a refresh until I got the 6.0 in her. Still have to tear into her to see whats up though.

 

Sorry a little bit confused. So the motor is in healthy condition and being transplanted into another car correct? Its a Gen 4 with 58x reluctor etc. I am guessing you wanted a Gen 3 setup with the 24x reluctor etc? I see that you want a 5.7 or 6.0.....whats the goal of the project. If you are going forced induction these little bastards can take a beating FYI. If you do end up selling....I would be interested in some stuff off the setup just in case.

 

I am not a clear person in general, especially when im at work trying to do 3 things at the same time, so, I apologige for the confusion.

Let me see if I can do a little better this time, lol.

Its a complete long block that has never been opened. It "looks" healthy from the outside. All valves look the same, no apparent bent valves and the crank spins 360 degrees with no lockup. I have yet to take it apart to see the internals.

It will be transplanted into a E36 and has a 58 reluctor. I am thinking 24 reluctor for ease of mix and match parts. Also, I heard the 24 reluctor can be used with after market computers and timing systems.

Goal of the project is to have around 380 RWHP normally aspirated engine. Still wondering which is the most efficiant engine to do this. A built nasty 5.3 or a mild 6.0? I am swayed to the 6.0 but can go any direction as I do not have something set in stone yet. I do like the gen 3 because they are still just a basic engine as opposed to all the fuel management, special lifters and go knows what else i have to do to set it up as a stright engine, lol.

I will keep you in mind on the parts, thanks.

 

Aftermarket injection systems work with either 24 or 58x reluctors.
Removing the VVT stuff isn't all that hard.
Nice lightweight engine.

6.0 certainly would have more low end grunt though. And if 24x you could use the popular 0896/0411 pcm and harness.

LS1/2 would be sweet. But the prices are often stupid high.

 

Ok....glad it wasnt me before coffee and also multi tasking lol.

-The cost of the LS1 and LS2 are rather high in comparison like Ross stated. You have the aluminum block which is nice. According to some brief research that stock motor produces approx. 315hp and 330 torque with a higher compression (9.9:1), floating pin pistons, I believe it has the new stronger style rod assembly and improved heads (I read 243 somewhere which are kick *** but could be totally wrong). Shouldnt take much work at all to get you to upper 300's, I would guess cam, possibly springs, long tube headers.

As far the reluctor wheel, on HPTuner Forums i read that the 05-06 had 24x reluctor and the 07+ had 58x. There are options for both setups just depends on which route you want to go.

There are also reclutor wheel converters if you needed to stay 24x and didnt have it...http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...3#.VFlFhTTF-Ag

 

With any cam you should be swapping in new springs, whether they be beehives or duals.

If you're trying to get 380 to the wheel with ease, I'd bore it out to a 347, longtubes (or swap headers) ls6 intake, and a relatively mild cam, something around 224/228ish. What are you wanting to spin it to?

 

Not really worried about how "hard" it is removing the VVT stuf, but, and here is the catch, from what I have read, its going to be at least $399 for a VVT delete kit alone. Thats where the predicament/dilemma comes in. Get rid of the block and start with one that doesn't have that and use the $400+ for something else, or??? I could take that $400 and add $600 and have a $1k LS2 aluminum virgin block, to start with. I am sure I could get about $300+ for the 5.3 block alone. In theoretical terms, that would be $700 . Hmmm, did I already answer my own question, lol??

Yes, she has the 799 heads which are the same as the 243, one reason I snatched it up. Definitely looking at long tubes. If I am gonna go through the pains of a swap, might as well be all the way. That would be kick butt if it was 24x, but then again, kinda hoping it is 58x for some dumb reason, lol. $250 for the lingenfelter? Yikes!! I think I might have to dive into my Arduino basket and see if I could produce some codeing to convert that input info back out to output info and save a few $$.

I have been eyeballing the heck out of cam #2 here, but, have done no comparisons to anything as of yet. That puts me well in the 400 range and I could go down a notch, but, gotta figure what I am gonna do with this engine first, heh!

Cams ---> http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...ick-boomerang/

Editors note: Just came back from going to Ace hardware to get some 10mm x 1.50 4" bolts and they were closed. They closed at 6 and its 7, what the heck?? Guess its going to be a few more days before I get the engine mounted to the stand.

 

Makes sense.....well if you decide to part I would be very interested in some stuff so keep me posted. The $250 for the lingenfelter is steep for sure.

 

Bad news. #2 rod spun and sand papered the engine, least the piston skirts and cylinder walls, thought he cylinders might be able to be honed, bored worst case scenario. I have not got any farther than heads, oil pan and #2 rod off, but, not looking good. I will keep you informed.

 

Oops.
Rats!

 

Thats not the exact words I used. I was a little more descriptive, but, yea, boat anchor city