Baby Cam Folks-Critique my choice
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Baby Cam Folks-Critique my choice
Looking for feedback before I install my cam. Originally I was going to go with an LS6 cam but with all the posts I searched and how cam technology as evolved, I went a little bigger.
Goals: CA Emissions, stock manifolds/cats, stock idle, not so hard on valve train, stock or mild stall (2600 Circle D), mid 12's-1/4 mile with stock drivability.
Mods: Magnaflow cat back, Intake, CBM LS6 Heads dual springs(valves probably too big 2.055/1.60), Potz TB & By-pass. 65K miles on motor.
My car started out as a "heads only" car and it pulled hard at top end but down low it is a dog. Goes to the track once a year - just DD weekend car.
Cam purchased from & spec'd by Martin @ Tick - 221/221 .662/.662 115+2 custom lobes & LS2 chain.
I've had 3000 size stalls before and personally did not like them, just my preference to build very mild DD car with stock manners. I know there is something you have to give up when you mod a car so I am being conservative.
Looking for feedback from those who have done baby cam installs and what outcome I should expect or what your experiences you have with your baby cam. Your specs & results are appreciated.
Thanks for your feedback.
Goals: CA Emissions, stock manifolds/cats, stock idle, not so hard on valve train, stock or mild stall (2600 Circle D), mid 12's-1/4 mile with stock drivability.
Mods: Magnaflow cat back, Intake, CBM LS6 Heads dual springs(valves probably too big 2.055/1.60), Potz TB & By-pass. 65K miles on motor.
My car started out as a "heads only" car and it pulled hard at top end but down low it is a dog. Goes to the track once a year - just DD weekend car.
Cam purchased from & spec'd by Martin @ Tick - 221/221 .662/.662 115+2 custom lobes & LS2 chain.
I've had 3000 size stalls before and personally did not like them, just my preference to build very mild DD car with stock manners. I know there is something you have to give up when you mod a car so I am being conservative.
Looking for feedback from those who have done baby cam installs and what outcome I should expect or what your experiences you have with your baby cam. Your specs & results are appreciated.
Thanks for your feedback.
Last edited by BBATCAR; 01-02-2015 at 12:26 PM. Reason: spelling
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I went and looked up the cylinder head shop you used, let's just say I was unimpressed when they offer a $6300 crate 5.3l making 350hp at 6400rpm and 350tq. To put that into perspective, a bone stock 5.3l makes 350hp at5200rpm and 380tq when engine dyno'd.
Being a dog down low tells you something you might not want to admit.
What gears?
What 3000stall had you tried?
A quality 3000stall paired with at least 3.42 gears should drive great.
Martin is a great guy offers good products but IMO the cam is not what you should be looking at. I would sooner consider stock 243/799 and 3.42gears 3000stall. Money permitting I would consider known good ported GM head castings, say your old 241s sent to someone like AI for CNC work.
You throw a good cam at a handicapped setup you won't get what you could from it.
I did the baby cam with stock gears stock stall thing and it was a mistake.
Being a dog down low tells you something you might not want to admit.
What gears?
What 3000stall had you tried?
A quality 3000stall paired with at least 3.42 gears should drive great.
Martin is a great guy offers good products but IMO the cam is not what you should be looking at. I would sooner consider stock 243/799 and 3.42gears 3000stall. Money permitting I would consider known good ported GM head castings, say your old 241s sent to someone like AI for CNC work.
You throw a good cam at a handicapped setup you won't get what you could from it.
I did the baby cam with stock gears stock stall thing and it was a mistake.
Last edited by 96capricemgr; 01-02-2015 at 02:33 PM.
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You're right had I gone with stock 243 heads or port the 241s may have been the better choice however the heads I have are still GM cast 799 ported heads - the issue is the large valves and why it runs well up top but not down low. The gears I have are 3:23.
With that said, Martin spec'd this to off set the shrouding for the heads that I have on with large valves and help with low end torque/power. Thank you for your comments.
With that said, Martin spec'd this to off set the shrouding for the heads that I have on with large valves and help with low end torque/power. Thank you for your comments.
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I sincerely hope the large valves just need a little more cam to work, what I saw on their crate motor page was ugly thou.
Now that they are ported 799 casting means nothing, porting can vastly improve or completely ruin a head or anything in between.
Sometimes vendors won't come right out and tell someone their setup is not great as a lot of folks will be offended by "bad service" rather than thankful for help in correcting things.
Right now we don't know for certain the heads are bad but I would call the, suspect.
I do know from experience that 3.23/stock stall is a bad idea with any cam upgrade, a "truck" cam might cope with it but that is just it, it will cope, not shine.
If nervous maybe think about 3.42 gears first, a little nudge to keep the cam from lugging at low cruise rpm, that or at least talk to the tuner about holding D really late locked up rather than having it hit OD and lug or cycle the TCC lockup a lot.
When I made this mistake it wasn't an LS but rather my LT1 2.93/1800stall with a ZZ4 cam at 208/221 drove fine but gained nothing at the track. Then I gave it mid length headers, 3.42gears, and 2800stall (9.5" unit not a stock size) and went 1.7 to 1.8 quicker at the track. Almost 2 seconds faster just by supporting a mild cam right. It was still mild enouh to put 20k a year on, hand the keys to anyone and drive through Green Bay WI winters.
Before the good 2800stall I had a garbage 2600stall that drove bad and ran hot.
Edge Racing Converters is the least expensive converter I would run, probably $600 for an LS, if you are prepared to spend the money on a 9.5" Circle D, do it. I would not bother with a 12" converter on anything not bone stock.
Now that they are ported 799 casting means nothing, porting can vastly improve or completely ruin a head or anything in between.
Sometimes vendors won't come right out and tell someone their setup is not great as a lot of folks will be offended by "bad service" rather than thankful for help in correcting things.
Right now we don't know for certain the heads are bad but I would call the, suspect.
I do know from experience that 3.23/stock stall is a bad idea with any cam upgrade, a "truck" cam might cope with it but that is just it, it will cope, not shine.
If nervous maybe think about 3.42 gears first, a little nudge to keep the cam from lugging at low cruise rpm, that or at least talk to the tuner about holding D really late locked up rather than having it hit OD and lug or cycle the TCC lockup a lot.
When I made this mistake it wasn't an LS but rather my LT1 2.93/1800stall with a ZZ4 cam at 208/221 drove fine but gained nothing at the track. Then I gave it mid length headers, 3.42gears, and 2800stall (9.5" unit not a stock size) and went 1.7 to 1.8 quicker at the track. Almost 2 seconds faster just by supporting a mild cam right. It was still mild enouh to put 20k a year on, hand the keys to anyone and drive through Green Bay WI winters.
Before the good 2800stall I had a garbage 2600stall that drove bad and ran hot.
Edge Racing Converters is the least expensive converter I would run, probably $600 for an LS, if you are prepared to spend the money on a 9.5" Circle D, do it. I would not bother with a 12" converter on anything not bone stock.
#7
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get a nice set of rear gears 3.73-3.90 and a really decent stall.i have had a 4200 stall drive like stock until wot.circle d,yank fti.yes there are 750-800 dollars but well worth it trust me