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I'm happy with everything but the cam after driving/tuning on it for 2 years. I feel given my 3rd Gen's weight (3400 race weight) and setup I should be seeing more mph. Plus it's a soggy dog below 4,000rpm, even with the 4.30's!
I think you'll trap a little higher with better traction. Looks like you're fighting for it halfway down the track. What are your supporting mods? I see the FAST in your sig.
I think your track time is about right personally. Did you know the DA for that run?
Great looking third gen, don't see very many clean ones.
I wish you could see signature on the mobile version.
FAST 102/92 (unported)
AI 226 243's, 56.5cc chambers
Forged pistons, -2.7cc valve reliefs
ARP Rod bolts
Monster Level 3 clutch
Moser 9" 4.30's
Spohn TQ arm
Founders LCA's
Koni Yellows (I know I know...not for drag racing)
It's a dead consistent 1.55 60' car. No issues with excessive spinning.
Thanks for the compliments, I've owned the car since I was 17...I'm 35 now. It's had many engines and transmissions over the years. Other than a cam change, I'm done with it for a while. I'm building a turbo LS C10 now.
Sorry for the thread hijack. Back to the OP's original question, I think you'll love the Tick cam! Please share your results and driving impressions.
FAST 102/92 (unported)
AI 226 243's, 56.5cc chambers
Forged pistons, -2.7cc valve reliefs
ARP Rod bolts
Monster Level 3 clutch
Moser 9" 4.30's
Spohn TQ arm
Founders LCA's
Koni Yellows (I know I know...not for drag racing)
That's the nicest 3rd gen I've seen in years and I'm not even a fan of white cars!
Your trap speed is about right at 3400lbs. If you had your FAST ported by Mamo,maybe a 4" MAF, larger 1 7/8" long tubes and perhaps a couple other squirrel mods if not already, you'd have a 125mph car, which is right in line with a c6Z. Not bad at all!
FWIW, I picked up 14rwhp just going to larger long tubes and 4.10's to 3.73's on my old combo mentioned in a previous post.
OP: for your cam choice the best source is the designer of the heads your buying. No one knows the port design better than Phil, and on top of that his lobes are easier on springs and will run quieter. He also measures every one he sells to ensure quality control and that you're actually getting what's spec'd.
If you have to go with a shelf grind, stay within 8-9 degrees of overlap (mine was 8 degrees) for drive ability and go with 4 degrees of advance to keep the pwr peak below ~6200. 4L60's hate high RPM shifts!
Jason
Last edited by Camaro99SS; 01-07-2015 at 10:18 PM.
I run that exact cam on a ls2 stock bore but with the 230cc job. It put down
450hp - 420 lbs torque through a t56 with a g body 8.5 rear. milled to stock compression. drives nice with the right tuning. (new era tuned it in rochester ny) any questions let me know.
I run that exact cam on a ls2 stock bore but with the 230cc job. It put down
450hp - 420 lbs torque through a t56 with a g body 8.5 rear. milled to stock compression. drives nice with the right tuning. (new era tuned it in rochester ny) any questions let me know.
You're referring to the LS2 SNS Stage 2 cam right? What intake, exhaust, etc?
I was referring to the AI spec'd cam at the beginning of the thread. 234-240 113+2 .626 lift. I forgot to mention on a dynojet. AI 230 head, milled for stock ls2 compression,fast 102,ls2 90mm ,1 7/8 long tubes ,6 speed gbody 8.5 (its in a swapped Monte)
450rwhp 420 rwtq
You can't go wrong with a Tick or Tooley spec'd cam. I had Martin spec one for me and I cant wait to get the car back together and see what it does. I also wouldn't turn my nose up at an AI cam. There's nothing like having cam spec'd for your actual set of heads!
01-07-2015, 06:43 PM
What are your supporting mods? I see the FAST in your sig. 
