Currently available options for stock idle/sleeper "big" cam? Dynos/Reviews?
01-24-2015, 09:19 AM
#21
On The Tree
Thread Starter
This is how I read your thread in my mind. Big headers, true duals, big converter......only a clueless IDIOT would not see/hear that coming a mile away. If they don't notice that stuff...then they probably would barely notice a cam either....these would be the same people who think loud exhaust=race car and a big converter=slow car (because its revving but not really going anywhere<true story).
Yes I agree.
- Drew
01-24-2015, 09:24 AM
#23
On The Tree
Thread Starter
With having a A4 transmission your engine idles several hundred lower than a with a M6 transmission so unless you raise the idle rpm I's go with something with about -8* overlap with a cam like a 218/222 114lsa, 220/220 114lsa, 220/224 115lsa, or 222/222 115lsa. Since you'll be running LT headers a single pattern cam or a cam with a mild 4* split should work good for you. I'd run at least a 3k stall in you A4 transmission with any of the cam specs I listed.
BTW typedRew, how high do you want/plan spin the motor up to, 6k, 6500, 7k ..?
BTW typedRew, how high do you want/plan spin the motor up to, 6k, 6500, 7k ..?
Car will be using a PT4400 convertor from yank.
I'll be bumping the idle up a bit to make this easier to hide.
- Drew
01-24-2015, 09:27 AM
#24
On The Tree
Thread Starter
It will be ran over the axle and into a pair of 4inch round magnaflows. May end up removing the resonators in the system as well and replace them with larger Vibrant Ultra Quiets.
I just wanted to start with a true dual system because of efficiency.
- Drew
01-24-2015, 09:36 AM
#25
On The Tree
Thread Starter
01-24-2015, 11:38 AM
#27
I'll say this. When I was tuning the idle on my 234/242 111... 16 degrees of overlap. I actually had it going without lope. Raise the RPM, raise the timing, and richen it up. It doesn't idle well there, but it sounds smooth. Much smoother than it should. Of course, my KPAs were in the 80s.
However, once I lowered the idle down to 875, brought the timing down, and leaned it out, it started to lope like a ****. In fact, I had it spot on that I turned off the adaptive spark and it held idle. KPAs dropped to 65.
So you can definitely tune around the parameters of a cam. Unfortunately, air, fuel, and spark still determine the behavior at idle. The sound comes from nailing it.
However, once I lowered the idle down to 875, brought the timing down, and leaned it out, it started to lope like a ****. In fact, I had it spot on that I turned off the adaptive spark and it held idle. KPAs dropped to 65.
So you can definitely tune around the parameters of a cam. Unfortunately, air, fuel, and spark still determine the behavior at idle. The sound comes from nailing it.
01-24-2015, 01:46 PM
#28
Okay, that's a lot bigger stall than I thought you might be running so in that car here's a slightly bigger cam, with fairly mild Cam Motion lobes which will help keep the valvetrain quiet(like stock), and have very good high rpm stability along with long valvetrain life.
222/226 116lsa +3( IVC 44) , or a 224/224 116lsa+3 (IVC 45). Now as far as lift Cam Motion can give you just about any lift you want, but I go with at least a .570" but keep it under .620" for the intake lobes, and less lift for the exhaust lobes (.10"-.20" less). FYI, don't be afraid of going with lift over .600" the lobes will still have a fairly mild 55 ramp rates like the lower lift does.
222/226 116lsa +3( IVC 44) , or a 224/224 116lsa+3 (IVC 45). Now as far as lift Cam Motion can give you just about any lift you want, but I go with at least a .570" but keep it under .620" for the intake lobes, and less lift for the exhaust lobes (.10"-.20" less). FYI, don't be afraid of going with lift over .600" the lobes will still have a fairly mild 55 ramp rates like the lower lift does.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 01-24-2015 at 01:59 PM.
01-25-2015, 12:48 PM
#29
This how yours idles?
Video Link: http://youtu.be/40CQHjrMyao
Video Link: http://youtu.be/gOHdXw27XAM
Video Link: http://youtu.be/WqOls0V9hNs
- Drew
Edit: maybe a lil bit
Last edited by spy2520; 01-25-2015 at 01:30 PM.
01-26-2015, 08:19 AM
#30
I am picking my car up tomorrow from a sleeper cam install. Originally I did a "heads only" car with the factory cam. It was better at highway speeds over 65 mph but slow down low.
I had Martin at Tick spec the cam for me. He listened to my goals and concerns about a sleeper cam & drivability. Martin said at minimum I will pick up 30 HP and my heads will now come alive adding even more power.
Originally I was going to install an LS6 cam but decided to go a little more power while still retaining the stock drivability. I will pass CA emissions, keep stock manifolds & stock stall (although I may change to a mild stall) and stock idle.
UPDATED: Many told me a mild cam on a stock car is a waste - well now I know the truth, they were wrong. The car sounds just like stock. Very tiny push on the brakes on the stock stall but absolutely no issue for those who don't want a stall. I am very happy not going to an LS6 cam and having Martin spec this cam. The valve train noise is noticeable at idle, a little sewing machine sounding but nothing I cannot live with.
This cam is "sleeper/stealth" but when I press on the gas, the car hauls butt through all RPMs power range low to high. Keep in mind I wanted a mild, fast, "stockish" street car. If I stomp on it WOT the wheels spin every time. If I "press" the accelerator it just flat out hauls. The exhaust volume sounds like it did with heads only. You really have to listen to the exhaust to note that there is a hint of a cam. Tuner said it did hit the rev limiter so he made some minor transmission adjustments, hardly noticeable.
Thank you Martin for your expertise and helping chose the perfect cam. I am going to dyno it soon and truly feels like a 370 RWHP car, even with stock manifolds. OP- A cam similar to this with your headers and stall would be wicked IMO for what you are describing. I would at least give Martin a call for a custom grind.
Two very short videos (due to file size) 1st the valve train, 2nd the exhaust. Sounds way better in person - this was done with my phone. Hope this helps anyone looking for a mild cam with great results:
http://vid250.photobucket.com/albums...etrain_1-1.mp4
http://vid250.photobucket.com/albums.../221%20Cam.mp4
I had Martin at Tick spec the cam for me. He listened to my goals and concerns about a sleeper cam & drivability. Martin said at minimum I will pick up 30 HP and my heads will now come alive adding even more power.
Originally I was going to install an LS6 cam but decided to go a little more power while still retaining the stock drivability. I will pass CA emissions, keep stock manifolds & stock stall (although I may change to a mild stall) and stock idle.
UPDATED: Many told me a mild cam on a stock car is a waste - well now I know the truth, they were wrong. The car sounds just like stock. Very tiny push on the brakes on the stock stall but absolutely no issue for those who don't want a stall. I am very happy not going to an LS6 cam and having Martin spec this cam. The valve train noise is noticeable at idle, a little sewing machine sounding but nothing I cannot live with.
This cam is "sleeper/stealth" but when I press on the gas, the car hauls butt through all RPMs power range low to high. Keep in mind I wanted a mild, fast, "stockish" street car. If I stomp on it WOT the wheels spin every time. If I "press" the accelerator it just flat out hauls. The exhaust volume sounds like it did with heads only. You really have to listen to the exhaust to note that there is a hint of a cam. Tuner said it did hit the rev limiter so he made some minor transmission adjustments, hardly noticeable.
Thank you Martin for your expertise and helping chose the perfect cam. I am going to dyno it soon and truly feels like a 370 RWHP car, even with stock manifolds. OP- A cam similar to this with your headers and stall would be wicked IMO for what you are describing. I would at least give Martin a call for a custom grind.
Two very short videos (due to file size) 1st the valve train, 2nd the exhaust. Sounds way better in person - this was done with my phone. Hope this helps anyone looking for a mild cam with great results:
http://vid250.photobucket.com/albums...etrain_1-1.mp4
http://vid250.photobucket.com/albums.../221%20Cam.mp4
Overlap is the main thing that is going to keep the car sounding mild and "like stock". Keep that in mind when selecting a camshaft for your goals OP.