Going with a TSP 228R Cam, and not sure what else..
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I'm needing help making my plans fit my budget better. My original plan was the PRC 5.3 stg 2.5 heads, 228R, Fast 102/102, Yank SS3600, and all the supporting mods that come with it (oil pump, LS7 lifters, rockers, etc).
Unfortunately, I now have a max budget of around 4K, so I need to alter my plan. My initial thought is to skip the heads for now and run the 228R cam, fast 92/92 intake, and the converter. But I'm not sure if this is a good setup without higher flowing heads?
My car is 100% a street car. I'm NOT going to race it-- I just want something fun to cruise in. I'd like to hit 400rwhp...
What do you guys think?
The tune and converter install will be around $1100.
Unfortunately, I now have a max budget of around 4K, so I need to alter my plan. My initial thought is to skip the heads for now and run the 228R cam, fast 92/92 intake, and the converter. But I'm not sure if this is a good setup without higher flowing heads?
My car is 100% a street car. I'm NOT going to race it-- I just want something fun to cruise in. I'd like to hit 400rwhp...
What do you guys think?
The tune and converter install will be around $1100.
Last edited by 5_litre_eater; 02-04-2015 at 01:24 PM.
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Are you saying to do heads instead of an intake and cam?
With a 4K budget, half of that will be spent on the converter, the cost to install the converter, and a dyno tune.
So realistically I have 2K to spend on cam/heads/intake or some combination. I can't afford all three. That's what I was initially thinking to run the cam with the fast 92.
With a 4K budget, half of that will be spent on the converter, the cost to install the converter, and a dyno tune.
So realistically I have 2K to spend on cam/heads/intake or some combination. I can't afford all three. That's what I was initially thinking to run the cam with the fast 92.
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Why not do the install yourself it will save quite a chunk of change and a converter swap isn't all that hard. I would honestly ditch the fast and put that money towards a set of heads. Reason being is that a fast can be installed later and isnt all that much to tune for. The heads on the other head are a much more tiely install not to mention a set of heads will gain way more than a fast.
My advice is do all 3 if you can and do the install yourself if not then use the stock intake for now get the best heads possible and do the cam/stall then a fast later on.
Option 2 is get a set of 243/799 heads for 350-400 bucks and be happy with them the fast and the cam. They will still be 20+ hp better than the stock heads
My advice is do all 3 if you can and do the install yourself if not then use the stock intake for now get the best heads possible and do the cam/stall then a fast later on.
Option 2 is get a set of 243/799 heads for 350-400 bucks and be happy with them the fast and the cam. They will still be 20+ hp better than the stock heads
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Why not do the install yourself it will save quite a chunk of change and a converter swap isn't all that hard. I would honestly ditch the fast and put that money towards a set of heads. Reason being is that a fast can be installed later and isnt all that much to tune for. The heads on the other head are a much more tiely install not to mention a set of heads will gain way more than a fast.
My advice is do all 3 if you can and do the install yourself if not then use the stock intake for now get the best heads possible and do the cam/stall then a fast later on.
Option 2 is get a set of 243/799 heads for 350-400 bucks and be happy with them the fast and the cam. They will still be 20+ hp better than the stock heads
My advice is do all 3 if you can and do the install yourself if not then use the stock intake for now get the best heads possible and do the cam/stall then a fast later on.
Option 2 is get a set of 243/799 heads for 350-400 bucks and be happy with them the fast and the cam. They will still be 20+ hp better than the stock heads
That's why it's the only part I know for certain I'm installing (other than the stall). What other mods do you have?
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That's a good point. I would definitely prefer to buy new heads, as I have heard a lot of horror stories about buying used. Actually.. I have heard horror stories about new heads, too....
That's why it's the only part I know for certain I'm installing (other than the stall). What other mods do you have?
That's why it's the only part I know for certain I'm installing (other than the stall). What other mods do you have?
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Dont be scared of used heads. I've never bought a set of new ones and havent been burned. Buy them from a reputable guy on here with a good itrader rating and be fine. Like I said though HEADS BEFORE A FAST. A fast is worth 15+ on a stock cam only setup. However a good set of heads will easily be worth 40-50 on that same setup, then add a fast later on and gain another 20-25. See how that works?
You can find a good set of cnc heads on here for 1k or even less. I would do that and the cam then save for a fast. or like I said get a set of 243's call it good and buy the fast
something else since this a 100% street car you may want to reconsider the 228r and go with something with the same duration or similar but get it on softer lobes. xer lobes will need a good spring and be checked frequently as they are fairly violent
You can find a good set of cnc heads on here for 1k or even less. I would do that and the cam then save for a fast. or like I said get a set of 243's call it good and buy the fast
something else since this a 100% street car you may want to reconsider the 228r and go with something with the same duration or similar but get it on softer lobes. xer lobes will need a good spring and be checked frequently as they are fairly violent
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Dont be scared of used heads. I've never bought a set of new ones and havent been burned. Buy them from a reputable guy on here with a good itrader rating and be fine. Like I said though HEADS BEFORE A FAST. A fast is worth 15+ on a stock cam only setup. However a good set of heads will easily be worth 40-50 on that same setup, then add a fast later on and gain another 20-25. See how that works?
You can find a good set of cnc heads on here for 1k or even less. I would do that and the cam then save for a fast. or like I said get a set of 243's call it good and buy the fast
You can find a good set of cnc heads on here for 1k or even less. I would do that and the cam then save for a fast. or like I said get a set of 243's call it good and buy the fast
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you can get screwed on heads I agree but thats the case on anything. If the seller has a good rating and the pictures dont show any problems then I would hesitate. I've bought 3-4 sets of heads used and my buddy about the same some ported and some stock. Never had an issue. Lots of cnc heads here are low mileage as well.
The fast gets a bad rap for price but dollar for dollar it really isnt as bad as some people make it out to be especially if the parts are bought used. and as you mod the price for hp goes up anyway. not saying its cheap but there are far worse things people spend money on
The fast gets a bad rap for price but dollar for dollar it really isnt as bad as some people make it out to be especially if the parts are bought used. and as you mod the price for hp goes up anyway. not saying its cheap but there are far worse things people spend money on
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"Unfortunately, I now have a max budget of around 4K, so I need to alter my plan. My initial thought is to skip the heads for now and run the 228R cam, fast 92/92 intake, and the converter."
Do this, but reconsider putting the stall in yourself. as long as you have a trans jack and 20"-30"of wobbler extensions removal/install of the transmission by yourself is well within you capability if you can do H/C yourself. I'd also recommend a new oil pump and timing chain/gear set to go along with the "cam install" gasket kit set, PR's, valve springs and valve seals you'll need. Later when you add/install the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads it'll only require removing the intake, draining the coolant, removing the WP then using a wet/dry shop vac to suck as much remaining coolant as possible out the factory heads before removing them. Doing this will greatly accelerate the clean-up process before installing the new head gaskets, heads and bolts.
Do this, but reconsider putting the stall in yourself. as long as you have a trans jack and 20"-30"of wobbler extensions removal/install of the transmission by yourself is well within you capability if you can do H/C yourself. I'd also recommend a new oil pump and timing chain/gear set to go along with the "cam install" gasket kit set, PR's, valve springs and valve seals you'll need. Later when you add/install the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads it'll only require removing the intake, draining the coolant, removing the WP then using a wet/dry shop vac to suck as much remaining coolant as possible out the factory heads before removing them. Doing this will greatly accelerate the clean-up process before installing the new head gaskets, heads and bolts.
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If you're somewhat mechanically inclined I would try to do the installs yourself. With 2k you can get a used set of 243 heads, a nice cam and springs and an ls6 intake. Have the heads resurfaced and swap everything over to your intake. I got a set of 243 heads for around 400 and it only cost another 100 dollars or so to have them resurfaced. You should be able to find a bare ls6 intake for another few hundred. The cam and springs will be 5 to 600 roughly and you should be able to install everything yourself. I upgraded my ls1 with 243 heads a 233/239 cam and springs and an ls6 intake with bigger injectors for a litlte under 2k, but I did all of my own work. My car makes right at 395hp/375tq with those mods. Definitely seemed like it was worth it to me. You will definitely be able to tell the difference.
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If you're somewhat mechanically inclined I would try to do the installs yourself. With 2k you can get a used set of 243 heads, a nice cam and springs and an ls6 intake. Have the heads resurfaced and swap everything over to your intake. I got a set of 243 heads for around 400 and it only cost another 100 dollars or so to have them resurfaced. You should be able to find a bare ls6 intake for another few hundred. The cam and springs will be 5 to 600 roughly and you should be able to install everything yourself. I upgraded my ls1 with 243 heads a 233/239 cam and springs and an ls6 intake with bigger injectors for a litlte under 2k, but I did all of my own work. My car makes right at 395hp/375tq with those mods. Definitely seemed like it was worth it to me. You will definitely be able to tell the difference.
Id use the rest on a better exhaust set up like long tubes and x pipe to let the cam breath. If you haven't already done so.
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You guys have given me a lot to think about. Thanks for all your input!
I don't have a trans jack, otherwise I might attempt the converter install myself. A tuning shop I have been talking to said they could install the converter for $450 prior to tuning.
I already have long tubes and true duals, so my exhaust is taken care of.
I have never done a heads /cam swap on a OHV motor before, but I've done it on 4.6 mustang motors. I don't think it should be too hard as long as I take my time.... Right?
I don't have a trans jack, otherwise I might attempt the converter install myself. A tuning shop I have been talking to said they could install the converter for $450 prior to tuning.
I already have long tubes and true duals, so my exhaust is taken care of.
I have never done a heads /cam swap on a OHV motor before, but I've done it on 4.6 mustang motors. I don't think it should be too hard as long as I take my time.... Right?
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450???? No way lol i usually see prices of around 300 and my area isnt cheap. the 4l60 has a pretty big pan, Ive used a jack a number of times with just a block of wood. Otherwise harbor freight sells a trans jack for 65 bucks. For a one time use it'll be fine.
And no, a ls cam swap is cake compared to that abortion of an engine.
And no, a ls cam swap is cake compared to that abortion of an engine.