Okay I'm going to try not to drag on, but this is my first LS swap build. Going into a 62 impala SS. I have an entire 2002 Yukon that I will be using for the swap. It has the LM7 with 862 heads and of course the 4L60E. I would love any general tips you all have as well as answers to my beginning questions here. This is a budget build, but I don't want crappy parts either. (EX: a FAST intake is not in the budget at all). Thanks all!

1. I'm searching for around 400+ horsepower, NA.
2. Can I reach this goal and not have to do a head swap?
3. What parts do you all suggest (cam, intake, etc.)
4. Will the 4l60e be the tranny I want? It's going to be a good-weather cruiser, but I want it to get up and go when needed
5. Posi options and what gears for cruising/ some speed uses? Has factory 10 bolt now

 

400 to the wheels or at the motor? At the wheels, it might be a bit of a stretch with the 5.3 and unworked heads. However, 400 at the motor and 350+ at the wheels can happen, even with the 5.3L.

Martin @ Tick has a couple of 5.3L combos putting out something around 350rwhp. The cams are streetable too. I'd start by asking him.

Cam Motion also has a series of cams called Titan that looks pretty good. My choice there would be:

Titan 02: 221/226 .595"/.586" 112+4 LSA

http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan2

I think if you grabbed some BTR Springs, hardened pushrods, new oil pump, C5R timing chain, and BTR trunion kit from www.briantooleyracing.com and paired with the Titan, you'd have a nice combo. Grab some headers and you'll be good. If you want, TSP, Ai, and TEA can all rework the 862 heads and that'll cost less than $1k and add a good solid 30-45rwhp.

As for the trans, it'll work fine for what you want. Just grab a 2800 stall or 3000 stall from CircleD or FTI to complete the setup. I'd put something like 3.23 or 3.42 in the 10-bolt and cruise with that.

 

Thanks Jake! A lot of places I read have gotten good horsepower out of these engines and claim it isn't super difficult. Would you say LS6 intake, cam, and some work on the heads I have now will get me there? Also should I just get Eaton gears for the rear end and put the posi one in? To name a few:
http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/1010phr-1962-chevy-imapala/#__federated=1

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1733909-best-lm7-approach.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1073702-chevelle-lm7-swap-under-3000-a.html

 

You can definitely get there. If you put the heads on there, you'll be in the 375-380rwhp territory with that Titan cam.

LS6 intake would be a good choice. I would really consider the TSP head work:

Outright with no springs is $1225: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-4345-pr...-outright.aspx

Or if you send them in $950 without valve springs: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1172-pr...-castings.aspx

Just tell them it's going on a 5.3L. You can mill them probably .030" to bump up the compression with that cam and be okay, even with the larger valves.

As for the rear, depends on the 10-bolt. Is it an 8.5" or the 7.5"? 8.5" has some better options. I would opt for 3.42s and an Eaton or Auburn differential.

 

I'm not sure on the rear end. I'll check that tomorrow and see. I have also seen that people get rid of the dished Pistons out of the 5.3 and put in flat 4.8 ones.. Should I do that too for more compression? Would I need new rods?

 

If you mill down, you'll gain about as much compression. Just keep the shortblock as is.

 

Alright great! I need some more opinions and testimonials from other people, anyone out there??

 

Can anyone give me some part suggestions?

 

Naturally Aspirated, 400+ HP... If there is a risk that your engine might ping, use forged pistons. Nothing sucks worse than a broken slug. I miss the good ole days when you could get 8 forged small block pistons from TRW on sale for $100. Of course, today's money doesn't buy as much either. The stealth tax of "quantitative easing" screws us all.