383 ls1
So a buddy of mine gave me a almost complete 383 stroker. Forged pistons, Forged rods, Cam, Heads with heavy duty valve springs. All I need to get is a crank. The rod stroke?? is 6200. My question is Where can I find a steel crank for it? I am only planning on putting 450-500 to the flywheel. So for now a forged crank is not needed. I have heard that the rods are the weak point which is why I want to use the pistons, rods. I have included pictures of rods/pistons in case anyone can help. Thanks.




Callies, Lunati, Scat, and Eagle all make affordable cranks. I don't know of any 4" stroke cast cranks for the LS1, so you're going to be buying a forged crank to complete your rotating assembly.
So a buddy of mine gave me a almost complete 383 stroker. Forged pistons, Forged rods, Cam, Heads with heavy duty valve springs. All I need to get is a crank. The rod stroke?? is 6200. My question is Where can I find a steel crank for it? I am only planning on putting 450-500 to the flywheel. So for now a forged crank is not needed. I have heard that the rods are the weak point which is why I want to use the pistons, rods. I have included pictures of rods/pistons in case anyone can help. Thanks.
Attachment 490059
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Attachment 490062
Attachment 490059
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Attachment 490062
Here is the info on the pistons. He already had the motor running with a 4.000 crank so it should be right. I am not 100% tho you guys probably know a little more than me. Any other info like Rocker recomendations, intake, head mods? anything would help me. He had this motor (383) running on almost completely stock top end.
In case you guys cant read the picture.
Bore (in):3.902 in.
Bore (mm):99.110mm
Piston Style:Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Compression Distance (in):1.050 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc):+3.00cc
Wrist Pin Style
ress-fit or floating
Pin Diameter (in):0.927 in.
Piston Ring Thickness:1.50mm x 1.50mm x 3.00mm
Quantity:Sold as a set of 8.
In-Store Pickup:Choose In-store pick-up (OH, GA, NV) on our web site.
CalculatorCompression Calculator
ToolStroker Combinations
Bore (in):3.902 in.
Bore (mm):99.110mm
Piston Style:Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Compression Distance (in):1.050 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc):+3.00cc
Wrist Pin Style
ress-fit or floatingPin Diameter (in):0.927 in.
Piston Ring Thickness:1.50mm x 1.50mm x 3.00mm
Quantity:Sold as a set of 8.
In-Store Pickup:Choose In-store pick-up (OH, GA, NV) on our web site.
CalculatorCompression Calculator
ToolStroker Combinations
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In case you guys cant read the picture.
Bore (in):3.902 in.
Bore (mm):99.110mm
Piston Style:Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Compression Distance (in):1.050 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc):+3.00cc
Wrist Pin Style
ress-fit or floating
Pin Diameter (in):0.927 in.
Piston Ring Thickness:1.50mm x 1.50mm x 3.00mm
Quantity:Sold as a set of 8.
In-Store Pickup:Choose In-store pick-up (OH, GA, NV) on our web site.
CalculatorCompression Calculator
ToolStroker Combinations
Bore (in):3.902 in.
Bore (mm):99.110mm
Piston Style:Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Compression Distance (in):1.050 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc):+3.00cc
Wrist Pin Style
ress-fit or floatingPin Diameter (in):0.927 in.
Piston Ring Thickness:1.50mm x 1.50mm x 3.00mm
Quantity:Sold as a set of 8.
In-Store Pickup:Choose In-store pick-up (OH, GA, NV) on our web site.
CalculatorCompression Calculator
ToolStroker Combinations
after all is that not what forums are about? There is alot of useful information in the post you linked tho thanks.
I get that you got free parts but spending $1500 to have a stroker with unported stock heads is going to make for a turd.
To put this together well with a stroker crank balanced etc. plus complimentary topend is going to get expensive fast.
On the older smallblocks where cast chinese stroker cranks are available they are a LOT weaker than stock and fail withing your modest HP goal range.
I would either flip the parts to put towards heads and cam, or shelve them till you can spend a fair amount putting this together right. Putting free parts together halfassed, like a cast crank would be, is wasting money, not saving it.
To put this together well with a stroker crank balanced etc. plus complimentary topend is going to get expensive fast.
On the older smallblocks where cast chinese stroker cranks are available they are a LOT weaker than stock and fail withing your modest HP goal range.
I would either flip the parts to put towards heads and cam, or shelve them till you can spend a fair amount putting this together right. Putting free parts together halfassed, like a cast crank would be, is wasting money, not saving it.
That is exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the info.
He had built it just as it is I drove it once and it seemed to have alot of
torque but in order to do it correctly if I am looking at a lot of money your right and I would be better off selling it and getting head/cam/intake combo.
Thanks for your opinion. Know anyone looking for a 383 setup? lol
He had built it just as it is I drove it once and it seemed to have alot of
torque but in order to do it correctly if I am looking at a lot of money your right and I would be better off selling it and getting head/cam/intake combo.
Thanks for your opinion. Know anyone looking for a 383 setup? lol
That is exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the info.
He had built it just as it is I drove it once and it seemed to have alot of
torque but in order to do it correctly if I am looking at a lot of money your right and I would be better off selling it and getting head/cam/intake combo.
Thanks for your opinion. Know anyone looking for a 383 setup? lol
He had built it just as it is I drove it once and it seemed to have alot of
torque but in order to do it correctly if I am looking at a lot of money your right and I would be better off selling it and getting head/cam/intake combo.
Thanks for your opinion. Know anyone looking for a 383 setup? lol
Well for anyone still following this thread. I have decided to build the 383. My friend had a pretty good point. If I complete the forged bottom end with a new crank then I am almost sure that I will not need to modify my bottom end in the future any direction I decide to go. I am going to install ported/polished 243 heads and a ls6 intake for now along with the 383 rotating assembly and my matched valves/cam/lifters. If anyone feels like answering this feel free.
With my 4.000 crank/ 6200" rods and pistons listed above along with a 609 intake 619 exhaust at .50 cam how well do you think modified 243 heads and a ls6 intake off of a corvette would flow?
With my 4.000 crank/ 6200" rods and pistons listed above along with a 609 intake 619 exhaust at .50 cam how well do you think modified 243 heads and a ls6 intake off of a corvette would flow?






