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Head gasket leaking after install..

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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 06:28 PM
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Default Head gasket leaking after install..

Installed LS9 head gaskets on an LQ4 w/ stock heads (will be boosting later). Started priming the engine and noticed a little bit of water under the drivers side. Looks like it is coming from the head gasket..

I used ARP head bolts, torqued properly (3 stages, final stage 75ftlb)

Any ideas what happened?

**It is only leaking from the driver's side head. The passenger side head is dry

Last edited by TXjeepTJ; Mar 13, 2015 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 07:15 PM
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Did you have the heads and block deck checked before you put every thing back together ?
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by conan
Did you have the heads and block deck checked before you put every thing back together ?
Nope, but they are the same heads that came on the block - not sure if it was leaking before hand though - I bought this engine from a wrecked truck. I gave it a good look over before the tear down and didn't see any leaks
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 10:57 PM
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Just started reading info about getting the heads checked/leved.... I need to stop following the ls1 how to write ups.. A lot of important info left out..
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 11:22 PM
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Are you 100% sure its leaking from the head ? Could it be the steam port in the back or is this leaking from under the exhaust ports ?
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by TXjeepTJ
Just started reading info about getting the heads checked/leved.... I need to stop following the ls1 how to write ups.. A lot of important info left out..
Absolutely, that site is responsible for a lot of engine damage.

How was the surface finish? Also, did you use ARP lube and was it on the threads and both side of the washer (not sure if the bolts have washers, if not then lube under the bolt head)? Where did you get the torque value? ARP increased their torque value on the studs a couple of years ago (I am running their studs), not sure on the bolts but you may want to call them prior to doing anything else.
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Also, did you use ARP lube and was it on the threads and both side of the washer (not sure if the bolts have washers, if not then lube under the bolt head)? Where did you get the torque value? ARP increased their torque value on the studs a couple of years ago (I am running their studs), not sure on the bolts but you may want to call them prior to doing anything else.
^^^Definitely recheck before condemning the engine. The lube is critical to accurate torque. Also, 75 seems quite low. That is less than the stock bolts
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 10:43 AM
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I'm getting ready to put new heads on with the ARP bolts. Every place I have seen recommends 75 ft/lb , but that seems low to me, too.
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 12:55 PM
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I use studs, and mine were torqued 75/25, I'm pretty sure. I never had an issue, and this was 11.7 compression.

What are you guys saying about LS1HowTo that damages motors? I used it in the past. I'm smart enough to know not to put the frickin crank pulley on using the bolt though. That's about all I can think of.

I don't rotate the motor when doing rockers either. 22ft#'s and go. It's quite simple.
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 01:07 PM
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Don't forget there is a coolant block off on the passenger rear of the head. Complete opposite of the coolant temp sensor

Whoops misread you said driver side. Anyway to put the gaskets on backwards? We're the heads and block mating surfaces cleaned thoroughly
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Absolutely, that site is responsible for a lot of engine damage.

How was the surface finish? Also, did you use ARP lube and was it on the threads and both side of the washer (not sure if the bolts have washers, if not then lube under the bolt head)? Where did you get the torque value? ARP increased their torque value on the studs a couple of years ago (I am running their studs), not sure on the bolts but you may want to call them prior to doing anything else.
Mating surface was perfectly clean on engine and heads - I took about 6 hours to make sure they were perfectly clean

I followed the arp instructions, which said to add the lube to the threads and to the side of the washer that contacts the bolt head. I don't recall it stating to add lube on the head side of the washer.

I'll have to triple check the torque values, the instructions it came with said 75ft lb though.


I just went back out there after letting it sit for a day and wanted to make sure it wasn't leaking from the steam vents. I checked the rear vent yesterday and it was def not leaking. I didn't check the front though. The front did have a little water residue around it.

When I crank the engine over now I'm not getting any coolant leaks. Sort of weird..

No coolant in oil and no coolant in the cylinders (stuck a rolled up paper towel in each cylinder)
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 07:39 PM
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Did you clean out the holes in the block for head bolts? If there not clean when your torqueing the bolts it won't be proper torque.
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by sabersaw30
Did you clean out the holes in the block for head bolts? If there not clean when your torqueing the bolts it won't be proper torque.
Cleaned the bolt holes real good

Found this today after running just the water pump using a drill. I wonder if the first time I cranked it fluid shot out of this, then started slowing down once junk started clogging the leaking

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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 08:49 PM
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Hopefully that's it right there and your good to go on the heads.
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 10:30 PM
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Hopefully that's your problem, my instructions said to torque to 80ft lbs
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 08:35 AM
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So now, for studs (mine are 2004 up now) the torque is 80/25?
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 11:00 AM
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I had mine leak from one of those steam ports like pictured before. The way it runs down it looks just like it's coming from the head gasket. That is likely your issue.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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OP, are you missing the gasket that goes there? Or did your use RTV on it?
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jrpimp00
OP, are you missing the gasket that goes there? Or did your use RTV on it?
I just pulled the steam vent line off last night - the gasket (O-ring) on the vent that was leaking was very flat and was recessed - so the O-ring wasn't really touching the block.

Swapped out with new gaskets (on both)

Cranked it over a good bit, didn't see any leaks. So I cranked it up and let it run for about 5 minutes, no leaks!
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 09:53 AM
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Always a great feeling tracking down pesky maintenance items. Good deal!
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