Is my instructor wrong?
I don't have compressed air, so I also used the rope method without any issues. However, I have seen it done with air before and it looks like it would be quite a bit easier.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 307
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From: Iowa
thanks guys, i feel like ordering my cam here in the next couple days. More confident without using compressed air. My instructor told me I woudnt be able to do the whole camswap in a day in school, maybe not even half the motor (springs) so.. I'm going with the garage style!
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2345758
and heres my choice in cam
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2345758
and heres my choice in cam
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I do not consider air only the correct way. If it fails the valve can drop. I recommend TDC method but air and TDC method used together is THE best way to do it.
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Honestly using air can be very dangerous, If you spin that piston up to TDC then apply air the entire piston-crank assembly is going to move until that piston is at BDC. I watched as crank spun down and the socket and ratchet went spinning around with the crank! It can get hairy.
I've been doing valve seals for 40 years using the TDC method using a piece of vacuum hose to find tdc. I've NEVER had a problem. Those valves are so close to that piston at tdc its completely safe. If it does drop a little once you install the new seal it will stay where ever you put it PLUS like I mentioned before you can do 2 cylinders at a time.
I'd be much more concerned which tool to use to compress the springs....buy the very best and take your time. If you strip any of those rocker threads your gonna be screwed as fast as a rabbit gets ucked!
I've been doing valve seals for 40 years using the TDC method using a piece of vacuum hose to find tdc. I've NEVER had a problem. Those valves are so close to that piston at tdc its completely safe. If it does drop a little once you install the new seal it will stay where ever you put it PLUS like I mentioned before you can do 2 cylinders at a time.
I'd be much more concerned which tool to use to compress the springs....buy the very best and take your time. If you strip any of those rocker threads your gonna be screwed as fast as a rabbit gets ucked!
The TDC method also gets my vote!
I also highly suggest getting a extendable magnet retrieval tool with a strong but small magnet. It'll be very handy with removing, and installing the locks, to prevent dropping them. Also a small hammer with interchangeable heads, like gunsmith, hobbyist, or jeweler hammer will work very good, but isn't required.
I also highly suggest getting a extendable magnet retrieval tool with a strong but small magnet. It'll be very handy with removing, and installing the locks, to prevent dropping them. Also a small hammer with interchangeable heads, like gunsmith, hobbyist, or jeweler hammer will work very good, but isn't required.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Mar 26, 2015 at 04:39 PM.
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2013
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The TDC method also gets my vote!
I also highly suggest getting a extendable magnet retrieval tool with a strong but small magnet. It'll be very handy with removing, and installing the locks, to prevent dropping them. Also a small hammer with interchangeable heads, like gunsmith, hobbyist, or jeweler hammer will work very good, but isn't required.
I also highly suggest getting a extendable magnet retrieval tool with a strong but small magnet. It'll be very handy with removing, and installing the locks, to prevent dropping them. Also a small hammer with interchangeable heads, like gunsmith, hobbyist, or jeweler hammer will work very good, but isn't required.
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One thing I have to mention if you do use a air compressor to charge the cylinders. Be sure not to leave the engine without starting when you are done. Compressed air can contain large amounts of water, if this water sits over night in the cylinders it can cause damage. Another concern in humid weather is filling the cylinders with water. Just keep this in mind.
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thanks guys, i feel like ordering my cam here in the next couple days. More confident without using compressed air. My instructor told me I woudnt be able to do the whole camswap in a day in school, maybe not even half the motor (springs) so.. I'm going with the garage style!
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2345758
and heres my choice in cam
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2345758
and heres my choice in cam
thanks guys, i feel like ordering my cam here in the next couple days. More confident without using compressed air. My instructor told me I woudnt be able to do the whole camswap in a day in school, maybe not even half the motor (springs) so.. I'm going with the garage style!
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2345758
and heres my choice in cam
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2345758
and heres my choice in cam
It'll take you a couple hours to get the intake off, water pump off, front timing cover off and valve covers off.
Then, figure two to three for the actual swapping the cam part of the swap.
Then, figure another two to three hours for the valve springs - assuming you use TDC method AND have the right VS compressor.
Then, another three hours for reassembly.
For a first timer, if you have all the tools and parts you need, you can plan on 8-12 hours wheels up to wheels down. After you've done it once, the second job will only take 5-6 hours, because you'll have fought through all the battles and learned the tricks
No sir. Ls cams do not have a distributor gear. Different bearing journal diameter, other differences.
96capricemgr = Gen 1 motors were used in a few vehicles till 2002 hence the year range on that cam. it WILL NOT work in a gen 3 motor.
He's right, as usual. See, we saved you headache. You can send donations to help pull squalor from poverty to my PayPal address
The GMPP Hot Cam is close to those specs. Scroll down a bit and find that thread or let us pick a stick for you.
96capricemgr = Gen 1 motors were used in a few vehicles till 2002 hence the year range on that cam. it WILL NOT work in a gen 3 motor.
He's right, as usual. See, we saved you headache. You can send donations to help pull squalor from poverty to my PayPal address
The GMPP Hot Cam is close to those specs. Scroll down a bit and find that thread or let us pick a stick for you.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
No sir. Ls cams do not have a distributor gear. Different bearing journal diameter, other differences.
96capricemgr = Gen 1 motors were used in a few vehicles till 2002 hence the year range on that cam. it WILL NOT work in a gen 3 motor.
He's right, as usual. See, we saved you headache. You can send donations to help pull squalor from poverty to my PayPal address
The GMPP Hot Cam is close to those specs. Scroll down a bit and find that thread or let us pick a stick for you.
96capricemgr = Gen 1 motors were used in a few vehicles till 2002 hence the year range on that cam. it WILL NOT work in a gen 3 motor.
He's right, as usual. See, we saved you headache. You can send donations to help pull squalor from poverty to my PayPal address
The GMPP Hot Cam is close to those specs. Scroll down a bit and find that thread or let us pick a stick for you.
https://sdparts.com/details/gm-performance-parts/12480033
I like this idea ^
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Here's the deal on time --
It'll take you a couple hours to get the intake off, water pump off, front timing cover off and valve covers off.
Then, figure two to three for the actual swapping the cam part of the swap.
Then, figure another two to three hours for the valve springs - assuming you use TDC method AND have the right VS compressor.
Then, another three hours for reassembly.
For a first timer, if you have all the tools and parts you need, you can plan on 8-12 hours wheels up to wheels down. After you've done it once, the second job will only take 5-6 hours, because you'll have fought through all the battles and learned the tricks
It'll take you a couple hours to get the intake off, water pump off, front timing cover off and valve covers off.
Then, figure two to three for the actual swapping the cam part of the swap.
Then, figure another two to three hours for the valve springs - assuming you use TDC method AND have the right VS compressor.
Then, another three hours for reassembly.
For a first timer, if you have all the tools and parts you need, you can plan on 8-12 hours wheels up to wheels down. After you've done it once, the second job will only take 5-6 hours, because you'll have fought through all the battles and learned the tricks