Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

Awhile back i picked up a 100% complete with computer and harness: 99 LQ4 (has the older crank and iron heads) and i decided that id like to put it in my camaro and possibly use my 5.7 for something else.

Im probably not gonna race anymore just trying to make something fun for the winding country roads where i live, would like it to be decently quick so ive pretty much settled on the idea of about 400-450rwhp like most people that seem to post about the lq4 (N/a anyway).

Car is a 2001 Automatic camaro with stock stall and 3.23 rearend
Just for reference.



So im thinking i could take my 241s and port them myself to help bump the compression and probably outflow the iron heads(of which i could not find an exterior casting number....) and i was thinking of a big cam such as the MS4 or maybe even the Texas speed giant cam but, recently ive been thinking maybe it would take too much to be streetable unless i had a 3600+ stall.

Im just unsure of which way to go and ive searched the site and read a few threads and theres allot of different routes to go, id love to go with an ls3 top end but im not finding any of the parts cheap in my area.

i did consider going the 370 or 408 route but havent checked on the cost of doing so yet on account on i havent even settled on what heads to use

i know i need to change the crank to work with my 01 4l60e.

The list of parts i plan on getting regardless is:

--higher compression pistons
--crank
--hardened pushrods
--high volume oil pump
--better waterpump
--connecting rods
--timing chain (something like the ls2 i suppose)
--injectors (probably 42lb)
--Gears (thinking 3.73-4.10s)

(unrelated) --Will also be redoing all of the suspension to handle a bit better in the turns--

Really i guess id like opinions on porting my 241s or trying to stick it out for better heads, and what cam could i run decently on either a stock stall or a close to stock stall. (not opposed to getting a stall but its not gonna be a drag car so i dont care about e.t)

Would a 233/239 or 244/248 sized cam be too much?

Its my first big engine build so ive got allot of questions and i have done allot of reading, just want to be sure before i put it all together.

also if someone has a crankshaft they recommend id love to hear it. I havent heard of any shoddy brands for ls engines but you never know...


Thanks for any help, and sorry for posting ANOTHER "help me with my lq4 thread" im sure you guys are tired of them.

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

My question is if you're against running a stall over 3600, then why are you looking at a 244/248 cam?

If all you want is between 400-450 rwhp, then you don't need that much cam. Are you running a bone stock 4L60e? If so, then you need to think about what you're willing to spin it to. I am.

If I wanted 400-450 rwhp from a LQ block and had to rebuild it, i might as well do a stroker crank. The price difference between one of those and a stock crank is negligible. The extra 44 cubes will feel nice coming out of those corners. It will also allow you to go milder on the converter, yet still let you easily achieve your power goals. Although not necessary for your power goals, if you're set in rebuilding it you might as well go that route.

Some basically ported/valve job/milled if necessary 243s will provide enough air to make that power. Personally I'm never against custom cams, you pay an extra $25, and that usually ensures that the cam you're putting in there is at least ideal, if not optimal. If you decide to choose it yourself, depending on how aggressively you drive, I'd choose something with milder lobes for the extended time at higher RPMs, and something in the low 230s intake/high 230s exhaust should be sufficient duration wise. I tend to see that Brian Tooley chooses a 45.5 intake close point ATDC for a 346, so the extra cubes should be able to take a little be more than that. Probably around 10-12 degrees of overlap depending on the torque converter your choose? Not positive here.


Mind you I'm no engine builder, I just read way too much up here.

Also, just a side note. I would choose the converter first before thinking anything engine wise. Too wild of a cam with a mild converter won't be fun to drive.

rlane5

Nick I just did a upgrade to my swap (LQ4). I had it in my 86 Vette for a year and over the winter, I did a Heads, Cam, Intake, Throttle body,and Header, upgrade, I used a Comp Cam 226/226 Dur @ .050 598/598 Lift LSA 111. I had some 706 cast heads (5.3 Truck) ported. That will raise the compression (approx 10.3), I used Felpro .041 mil head gasket. LS2 ported intake with an Edelbrock 90mm throttle body. I put new Morel lifter, LS2 timing chain and deflictor gaurd. Headers are 1 3/4" tube with 3" collectors. It has a 2800 stall with 3.45 gear, Dana 44 rear. I had PCM of N.C. reflash the computer, which I'm wait for it to come back, it's on the UPS truck today. I drove the car around alittle with a stock PCM and it felt real torquey, even at low RPMs, which the stock setup didn't feel a torquey (converter help alot).
Randy

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If replacing crank, rods and pistons why **** away money on this engine? Your goal is modest and a decent condition stock shortblock LQ4 would have been a good start without needing any shortblock work atall.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Get some stock 243 heads and leave the porting to professionals. In the end, those would flow much better than what you (an amateur porter) would get out of the 241s.

And those cams are wayyyyy more than even a 3600 stall would be good for, much less a stock stall. With those types of cams you'd need in the 4000+ range for a stall. A cam for the stock stall would be a low-mid 220s at the most. And a cam like that will not make 450rwhp with stock heads.

Seems like you're dumping a lot of money into the engine but trying to piece a weak combo overall. That's never a good way to get performance.

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. The only reason I was looking at cams that big is because I wanted it to pull real hard. No other reason really.
I haven't spent any money on the engine yet so I haven't wasted anything yet. I like to make lists and fact check before I spend allot of money.



The crank will not work because its a different length. Unless I get an adapter or something. I forget. Plus I want flat top pistons to bump compression which the stock shortblock can't magically do by itself...

I want to replace most of it with forged parts. Ya know for reliability. Its an older ls so it has weak rod bolts. So automatically have two purchases to make. Motor also had some wear on the bearings so I need to replace those too.

I'm not pissing anything away. I'm going to build it right once and not have it fail on me in a year or two.

Rlane5----Im gonna check your threads on the corvette when I get home if you have any. My phone and my location are barely letting me on the site.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

you are going to gain over 100lbs on the nose which is the opposite of what you want for handling twisty roads

you don't want a big converter so the bigger cam a 6.0l can soak up over a 5.7 is out of the question (especially with lower compression if you don't change internals)

the ls1 can easily make your power goals


IMO your best plan of action (unless your ls1 has issues) is to put a mid size cam and decent heads on it along with a mild stall and enjoy the car

rlane5

Nick my LQ4 is a 1999-2000 motor also it was a Jasper rebuilt motor, that someone was selling because their friend wreck his truck. It had 30,000 miles on it. It had the extended crank and dish piston, which is still in the engine. I had a Head Porter, port my heads.
Randy

rlane5

The crank works without an adapter, the converter I used had a 350/400 4L80 GM bolt pattern. No spacer needed
Randy

Tuskyz28

The better your heads are the less cam you'll need to meet your horsepower goals...

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The stock crank is bulletproof. I understood you wanted to change it because it is "long" which is the exact reason I was saying you bought the wrong motor. A couple year newer motor would have served better.
Compression is easy to come by with 243s which as others have stated will be better than 241s anyway.

By purchasing say a 2004+ motor you could have saved a lot of cash you could have put into the heads where it would actually help.

street_trash

The only thing the crank won't work with is a t56. Get a dished flywheel for a 4l60e, and a flat flywheel for a 4l80e.
I also have an extended crank lq4

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

The crank works without an adapter, the converter I used had a 350/400 4L80 GM bolt pattern. No spacer needed
Randy[/QUOTE]

well if thats the case ill just leave the crank alone. assuming i can get a convertor for the 4l60e to bolt up

yeah thats why i was wondering if using the 241s i had would be worth it at all. i know the 243s are pretty among the best heads for the ls1s.

what about the 5.3 heads from a truck? will they perform better than the 243s on the 6.0?

The ls1 i have does have issues. it needs to be rebuilt as well. for the 6.0 im definitely trying to up the compression. so i want flat top pistons and better heads than the iron ones that came on it.

i was thinking 241s, 243s, or 5.3 heads. goal is 10:1 at least. wanna try and get it close to ls1 compression or higher since ill probably tune it for 93 anyway. not gonna go high enough in compression for race gas lol.

for the price i paid and the area where i live the time was right. also before purchase i didnt know about the changes that took place with the 6.0s. I knew about the differences for the years of ls1s but didnt think to look up a 99 lq4. but its no big deal im in no rush to slap it together and i appreciate the info buddy.

So i dont need a different convertor? Just a dished flywheel? because i think i have a dished flywheel laying around somewhere.





Thanks for the info guys. my only real questions now are:

Whats a good brand of flat top pistons? (i.e eagle, stock gm, etc)

What oil pump should a go with? ( high pressure or high volume?)

Is a double roller timing chain worth it?

Should i use ls1 fuel rails or the truck fuel rails?

I am also thinking about solid aluminum motor mounts, so if anyone has experience with them let me know.

thanks dudes!

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

there is a set of 706 heads from a 5.3 in my area for 75 bucks. could i get them milled and make higher compression than some 243s?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Compression is good but 706s suck flow wise compared to 243s