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I pulled my engine and transmission, and After separating my trans from motor, I realized that the clutch had a layer of oil on it, along with the flywheel.
Does this mean my pilot bearing was bad? Or could this have happened because I pulled the engine, and the motor and trans where sitting verticle at one point, allowing oil to seep out?
Stick a pencil through the bearing hole, it should touch a freeze plug in the end of the crank. That plug may be missing, skewed, or have a hole in it...
Stick a pencil through the bearing hole, it should touch a freeze plug in the end of the crank. That plug may be missing, skewed, or have a hole in it...
That happened to mine. Like someone tried to "hydraulic" the pilot bearing out. Maybe the old bread trick. My clutch was ruined. I replaced the pilot,clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. It's been fine since.
edit I think this question does belong here and not in the transmission section.
That happened to mine. Like someone tried to "hydraulic" the pilot bearing out. Maybe the old bread trick. My clutch was ruined. I replaced the pilot,clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. It's been fine since.
edit I think this question does belong here and not in the transmission section.
Yeah, I'm thinking oil may be leaking from the plug in the back of the crank.
That happened to mine. Like someone tried to "hydraulic" the pilot bearing out. Maybe the old bread trick. My clutch was ruined. I replaced the pilot,clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. It's been fine since.
edit I think this question does belong here and not in the transmission section.
I made the mistake once trying to hydraulic it out. Didn't work, so I tried the toilet paper trick. Didn't work, so I had to dig it all out, and the bearing was stuck in so bad I had to put a come along on the puller and used the rear axle to anchor the come along. Ended up using a second come along to finally break it loose. Took 4 hours to do the clutch and 8 hours to get that damn bearing out
I made the mistake once trying to hydraulic it out. Didn't work, so I tried the toilet paper trick. Didn't work, so I had to dig it all out, and the bearing was stuck in so bad I had to put a come along on the puller and used the rear axle to anchor the come along. Ended up using a second come along to finally break it loose. Took 4 hours to do the clutch and 8 hours to get that damn bearing out
Damaged freeze plug from all the screwing around.
I used the pilot puller/slide hammer from VatoZone. I prolly didn't do my thrust bearing surfaces any favors but it came out with 3 easy whacks. Then I could see what happened. https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...t-bearing.html Note the date of the post.
I made it squeaky kleen and drier than a popcorn fart. Got the best hi-temp adhesive RTV I could find and glued the plug in. Put in a new roller pilot bearing. Pics show my treasure from Texas Driveline Service (sadly out of business) 15 lb billet steel fly, pressure plate rated to 550 tq, big clutch disk but composite, not grabby like a dual friction monster can be. Smooth and a pleasure to drive. New Bolts ! Tick speed bleeder ( do yourself a favor, buy one) Wilwood 7/8" master (made a adjustable clevis), oem slave, extended braided stainless line because my LS1 is in a 93 RX7.
I made it squeaky kleen and drier than a popcorn fart. Got the best hi-temp adhesive RTV I could find and glued the plug in. Put in a new roller pilot bearing. Pics show my treasure from Texas Driveline Service (sadly out of business) 15 lb billet steel fly, pressure plate rated to 550 tq, big clutch disk but composite, not grabby like a dual friction monster can be. Smooth and a pleasure to drive. New Bolts ! Tick speed bleeder ( do yourself a favor, buy one) Wilwood 7/8" master (made a adjustable clevis), oem slave, extended braided stainless line because my LS1 is in a 93 RX7.
That looks like a Texas drivetrain performance clutch, they're still in business. But I do agree, I've never found one bad thing about them.
Some people at NoRotors told me the right way to fix it is to hit the edge with a big flat screwdriver to get the freeze plug to **** sideways. Then you can get the side of it with pliers and work it out. I started thinking about what could happen with this plan. I'm not a lucky person. Ever have one of those days ? I have one of those lives.
I have no garage, no concrete, no cherry picker. Sorry about the 3 post thang, not trying to post *****. I had a big post typed up and tried to reply with no internet connection, lost it all. Only other advice I have LSX Man is to not over-torque your trans if you have a aluminum block. Use quality ATF, not GM syncromesh. Add through the shifter when the car is level, measure. It''s a good time to delete CAGS. No MityVac needed if you have the remote bleeder, just run a clear vinyl line from the bleeder to the rez and pump pedal until the bubbles are gone.
That looks like a Texas drivetrain performance clutch, they're still in business. But I do agree, I've never found one bad thing about them.
I'm glad to hear that, they have a great product. I beat on it like a red headed stepchild and it never fails to satisfy. It was between this or a Monster. No Centerforce, no Spec, no Fidanza. No LS7 with it's ratchet adjusters.
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Pilot bearing leaking 
