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Fwd driver side exhaust bolt leaking coolant

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Old 06-17-2015, 05:13 PM
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Default Fwd driver side exhaust bolt leaking coolant

Had orig broken bolts removed... Think they drilled into the water jacket... Does anyone know if permatex Grey gasket sealant would work to seal it up? I drained coolant down, used MEK to dry and get the oil out with some compressed air. Applied it to the coils and bolt itself. It's been 9 hrs. I plan on replacing the heads (799 heads) but this has to last. Anyone have this issue with there silverado's?
Old 06-17-2015, 11:59 PM
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Welcome to LS1tech!

Sorry for your troubles. I don't think it'll work for long, the heat cycles in that area might be too much for a liquid goop or epoxy.
Old 06-18-2015, 07:38 AM
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Any kind of thread sealant on the bolt will work. Blue monster I use for plumbing and the pressure in plumbing is way more than coolant. You will just have to remember if you ever work on the manifolds you will need to drain coolant. I think I read somewhere mopar has exhaust bolts that go into the water jacket so they use a sealant on the threads. Just make sure the sealant works on antifreeze.
Old 06-18-2015, 08:38 AM
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Default Permetex

I used the grey permatex oil and glychol resistant. So far so good. Need this to last a couple months then going to replace heads, and cam. Anyone know of a good cam size and head? Want to wake up this 4.8l. 07 Silverado 4.8 NBS
Old 06-18-2015, 09:58 AM
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Depends entirely on budget and goals. You could spend anywhere from 1000-5000$.

You'll need
Gaskets ~200
Bolts ~50
Heads ~400-3000 (used stockers up to aftermarket ported castings)(most new heads used fall into the ~1500-1800 area)
Cam ~380-500
Pushrods ~100
Lifters(not necessary but good to replace) ~130-500
upgraded rockers(not required but more important than lifters) ~200

As it's a short stroke truck you'll want to keep the port and cam small to maintain good low end tq. I'd say AFR 205/210's that can be had used for 1500-2000 and are fantastic heads.

All just estimates and IMO of course.
Old 06-18-2015, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Exidous
Depends entirely on budget and goals. You could spend anywhere from 1000-5000$.

You'll need
Gaskets ~200
Bolts ~50
Heads ~400-3000 (used stockers up to aftermarket ported castings)(most new heads used fall into the ~1500-1800 area)
Cam ~380-500
Pushrods ~100
Lifters(not necessary but good to replace) ~130-500
upgraded rockers(not required but more important than lifters) ~200

As it's a short stroke truck you'll want to keep the port and cam small to maintain good low end tq. I'd say AFR 205/210's that can be had used for 1500-2000 and are fantastic heads.

All just estimates and IMO of course.


Thank you... As far as low end torque I am swapping these bitch 3.23 gears for 3.73 Yukon master set next weekend. I plan on getting 799 heads (stock) port them out (unless that's a bad idea) my problem is not knowing what cam. I have read that ls6 cam is a great upgrade for the 4.8. I plan on getting new lifters and spending good money on quality... Stock lifters suck and are loud. I bought some roller rockers aluminum for 400$ but the thing is they are pro comp. machine shop said they are fine but many reviews made me second guess. But that goes the same for scorpion, and YT. The roller breaks easy on all similar rollers. Can a machine shop fix these and put a better holder for the little roller.
A lot of questions I know... But after all the crapy forum sites lstech seems to be the best.
Old 06-18-2015, 04:43 PM
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Scorpion and YT are not on the same level as pro comp. Pro comp are all chinese parts. Scoprion are made in USA with a lifetime warranty. 799 heads are good but if you go too big on the port you'll lose a bit of low end in exchange for top end. LS7 lifters are fine for most builds especially a milder cam that gives good off idle tq. LS6 would certainly make for a good truck cam.
Old 06-18-2015, 05:04 PM
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So my engine was getting rebuilt when j bought these paper weights, now it's past the return point. Seems like the only issue with them are the rollers. The lock pin falls out. Do you think a machine shop can fix these? Maybe rebuild them? I hate to have waisted all that money and def do not want to install a part that about 40% of people seem to have an issue with. Some guys I have talked to say they installed them and 3 years later nothing. They believe it's how you install them. Other say if you plan on pushing 6000rpm then go with a higher end, but for every day driving there fine.... What to do what to do.....

Has anyone used pro comp aluminum internal oiling rockers (I thought they were comp rockers, bought without research)
Old 06-19-2015, 03:53 AM
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With a really mild cam they should be fine for a very long time. It's when the open spring pressure gets over 400lb's that even the YT's had failures in the past. After the revision breakage is pretty rare. Stock beehive springs and a stockish cam shouldn't pose an issue for the procomps.

The biggest problem with pro comp is that they'll sell the exact same rocker for different prices under different company names just to make you think you are getting a deal on the cheaper ones. It's a sad way to do business.
Old 06-19-2015, 09:01 AM
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Thank you! I contacted speed master who sells them. I asked if I can return them being its only been 16 days and they are still in the box. Still waiting to see. I will have to pay a 20% restocking fee which is ok compared to possibly ruining my motor if I install.



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