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Old 07-31-2015, 07:36 PM   #81
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wouldn't that move the sensor rearward making it worse?

No. You put a fitting in there that is a brass barb deal. Run a vacuum line from it to the map sensor.
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Old 07-31-2015, 08:11 PM   #82
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No. You put a fitting in there that is a brass barb deal. Run a vacuum line from it to the map sensor.
that is a phenomenal idea!
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Old 07-31-2015, 08:14 PM   #83
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that is a phenomenal idea!
I think it's 1/4" NPT. Might be 1/8l lol. Do some searching in the forced induction section.
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Old 08-01-2015, 05:00 PM   #84
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Sorry if this comes across as a thread hijack... I don't understand why you measured for a new pushrod length if you're using the same cam? Isn't shimming the rockers all you needed to do?
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Old 08-01-2015, 05:09 PM   #85
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http://www.hotrod.com/features/1507-...ifolds-tested/

Richard Holdener tests everything.

FAST 102 is the best. It destroys the LS1 and even LS6 in this test. Even the MSD Atomic is on part HP wise, but loses out on torque.
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Old 08-01-2015, 06:40 PM   #86
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http://www.hotrod.com/features/1507-...ifolds-tested/

Richard Holdener tests everything.

FAST 102 is the best. It destroys the LS1 and even LS6 in this test. Even the MSD Atomic is on part HP wise, but loses out on torque.
The gold standard looks amazing in that test....surprised the FAST truck intake didn't look better although it was carrying better up top. Still the intake of choice if you had the room and this test kind of confirms that. MSD looked OK.....not nearly as sexy a torque curve as the FAST 102 however. Good info all around

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Sorry if this comes across as a thread hijack... I don't understand why you measured for a new pushrod length if you're using the same cam? Isn't shimming the rockers all you needed to do?
If you changed a single component in the system you would need to recheck pushrod length....especially with a short travel lifter and the limited window you have when running them (.058 total travel vs .200 or so).

In this case the lifters were changed, the heads were changed, and the rocker arms were changed.....all of which would or could effect the length of the pushrods required.

Hope this clarifies things

-Tony
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:41 PM   #87
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Sorry if this comes across as a thread hijack... I don't understand why you measured for a new pushrod length if you're using the same cam? Isn't shimming the rockers all you needed to do?
once the rockets are shimmed, the PR length changes. Also I went from stock lifters to 2126 short travels, to the preload has to be perfect. And I went to yell a Terra's from stock. And the height on the 220s is a bit taller since the runners are straighter. And the proof is somewhat in the pudding. Stock is 7.400 and I'm in 7.66-7.67 territory. What if I didn't measure?
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:52 PM   #88
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I'm always learning on here and wanted to ask. I guess I assumed since the wipe pattern looked good your pushrod length was acceptable.
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:03 PM   #89
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once the rockets are shimmed, the PR length changes. Also I went from stock lifters to 2126 short travels, to the preload has to be perfect. And I went to yell a Terra's from stock. And the height on the 220s is a bit taller since the runners are straighter. And the proof is somewhat in the pudding. Stock is 7.400 and I'm in 7.66-7.67 territory. What if I didn't measure?
Your over 7.700 with the preload factored in!

-Tony
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:16 PM   #90
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Your over 7.700 with the preload factored in! -Tony
that's right, cause we're adding 038. Those measurements were zero lash not preloaded
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:56 AM   #91
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Aside from my build possibly having a different base circle I'll probably be in the same boat length wise as you.

Mamo 220's, YT 8mm rockers with hollow intake valve. Cam in the mid 220's

It's 1/8th NPT for the barb btw.
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Old 08-03-2015, 08:50 AM   #92
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Well, I didn't get much of anything done this weekend. FedEx tried to deliver something on Saturday, which was likely the WP, but nobody was home. I used it as an excuse to be lazy. Right now, the only things I can actually do are to bolt the headers and spark plugs in anyway. Had the package diverted to a FedEx store so I could pick it up later today after work.

While in there, I went ahead and replaced the knocks, and broke the harness trying to get them out, so I had to get a replacement KS harness. Can't bolt the intake down until I get that in - hopefully today or tomorrow, but we'll see.

I'm sure most everybody on here knows this, but you also need the LS6 crossover pipe for the FAST intake. I was able to make the LS1 fit under the BBK by rebending it, but the FAST is too tight underneath.

If I can pick up the WP today, I'll start back at it and hopefully get it installed and running today. If I get that far, I should be able to measure for a serpentine belt. I'm assuming bolting the headers back in won't be a big deal. The hard part is done.
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Old 08-03-2015, 09:40 AM   #93
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I did want to also post how smooth and almost easy this build has been. Almost every project I have ever done the car or parts or tools have fought me every step of the way.

This build, things have just gone together like they were designed for it. Some of it I'm sure is this isn't the first one so I get all the lessons learned. But some of it also is the quality of the parts.

Definitely worth the price to go from budget parts to high end parts. More expensive up front but I'm pretty sure I'll never have to tear it down again.

If you're on the fence between blowing your budget or compromising on parts, resist the temptation to compromise and stretch to get the good stuff. You will not regret it.
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:16 AM   #94
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Good progress thus far. I'm sure you're learning a lot as you go.
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:24 AM   #95
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Quote:
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After several hours of cussing and discussing with Tony, I was finally able to get a centered, narrow wipe pattern. This was with 0.120" shimming under the YT pedestals[/I]
I ended up with 0.125" shims for the YT's on my AFR 205's as well.
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:56 AM   #96
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Good progress thus far. I'm sure you're learning a lot as you go.
Thanks! Sure am, but I'm no JakeFusion - nor will I be anytime soon. This whole thing is making me want to build my suburban up. My eyes are bigger than my toolbox.

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I ended up with 0.125" shims for the YT's on my AFR 205's as well.
Good to know. I'm hoping at some point down the road, maybe YT will start including some .125 shims in their kit as well as their .062 shims.

Progress Update:

I got the headers bolted up and the exhaust hung while waiting for other stuff. I also realized while I was under there I did something wrong with the damper. It's installed, but the AC pulley is way off from where it should be, so I'll have to pull the damper back off and mess with it some. I'm sure it's something simple. I'm hoping that pulling it off won't be too bad.

Also, I rigged up a vertical mount for the MAP on the rear of the intake, which worked great. I RTV'd the crap out of it and then used a washer stack to hold it until the RTV set. I put some RTV on the threads also to act as a weak Loctite. I'm pretty confident it'll hold.



Mounted the MAP vertically using a washer stack to help hold it in place. Pretty simple solution to the firewall interference



Driver Side Header in place and torqued up



Passenger Side Header in place and all torqued up
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:37 AM   #97
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Mounted the MAP vertically using a washer stack to help hold it in place. Pretty simple solution to the firewall interference

There ya go. That's what I did. Works great without the ugly front mount or remoting it with fittings and lines.
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Old 08-04-2015, 03:28 PM   #98
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Got another shipment in today from Mamo-Clause:



Nick Williams 102mm throttle body as packaged. Looks much nicer in person than it does in a photograph



Holding the throttle plate open. This thing is massive (that's what she said) compared to the stock throttle.



Meziere / Braziere water pump. The black powder coating really makes it pop. This is like the Johnson lifters in that the solid feel of it just feels like phenomenal quality



Here is all the stuff that shipped with the water pump. Pretty good shape to get started on the installation.
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:33 PM   #99
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[QUOTE=JakeFusion;18909832]http://www.hotrod.com/features/1507-...ifolds-tested/

thanks for sharing. I was surprised the lil 6.oL came real close to 600 FWHP.
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:58 AM   #100
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More progress. Pushrods expected Thursday. Waiting on the damned LS6 crossover. It's going to suck if everything else is done, and I'm waiting on that stupid thing to run the motor.

Got the water pump on, power steering on, took some steel wool to the brackets to at least TRY to shine them up, but they still look like crap.

I read a lot of posts about clearance issues between the meziere pump and the 102mm throttle. I have 1/4" clearance - and that is without the intake gaskets installed, which will gap it a bit more. without the crossover, I can't bolt the intake down, but I leave it in place as a dust cover.

Only thing I'm struggling with is the stupid damper. When I put it together the only way it will go together, the belts won't line up at all, or if I get the belts lined up, the hub is almost half an inch away from the front oil seal and barely even on the crank. Going to call ATI up a bit later to talk through this. I saw a thread about this, but I can't see how JakeFusion was able to pull the thing together.

Anyway, here are some more pics:



Here is the meziere in place. Not wired up yet.



Power steering in place now. Will deal with the electric mod later. Took some steel wool to all the cast aluminum brackets and such, because they looked so crappy next to the new heads.



An attempt to show the 1/4" gap between the pump and the throttle. There were lots of threads where this was an interference point. Maybe I got lucky. And this is without the intake gaskets, etc, which will raise the intake a tad more.



Another attempt to show the gap between the throttle and the water pump
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