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Mamo 220s in 383 stroker

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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 09:41 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by 5_litre_eater
Glad you got the bolt out! I haven't got to that step yet, but I'm not looking forward to it.
it's easy...just pack the pan with a couple shop towels. I never dropped the bolt once and I have large hands but I have good hand dexterity...Just take your time. It definitely is a dumb *** design. The engineer must of thought LS oil pumps would never need to be removed in the vehicle.
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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 05:37 PM
  #102  
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geez man sounds like you had fun towards the end of last week.

And glad you got it out to.

Any weekend progress?
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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 07:06 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by tuckin22
geez man sounds like you had fun towards the end of last week.

And glad you got it out to.

Any weekend progress?
Had family yesterday plus R&R. Today I got the oil pan back on. I worry about leaks taking it off. There is not much room to work and I cleaned it with solvent as well as I could and used my fingers to wipe some sealant back by the rear cover before mounting it up.

To get the pan loose I had to jack up the motor and it took me an hour or more to jockey the engine back to line up on the mounts. A big pipe finally helped plus I loosened the bottom of them so I could move the top bolt around a little. If barely fits in the motor ears so it had to get lined up perfect.

I was short a bolt for the timing cover even though I bagged everything up as I went. I found an exact one in some junk bolts on the bench and then of course found the original one when I put that one in.

I put the ATI balancer in the oven at 200* for a while. With a little anti-seize on the crank it went on fairly easily. I had a nice tool for it that a friend made. I cleaned out the head bolt holes and put the lifters, gaskets and finally the head on. Felt good getting to a point of rebuild.

I took a picture of that and also the difference in a "normal" Cometic head gasket for a 5.7 and a larger 4.160". He recommends 4.135 minimum and the Cometics I could find in a .036" thickness were 4.160". I took some pictures of that too. I've read the debate of size for the 5.7 bu I'll take the slight step and headroom for flow off the valve instead of a hot glowing edge.


Magnificant Mounted Mamo Motorsports Modified Motor-heads


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Cometic 3.910 gaskets overhang the combustion chamber.


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Cometic 4.160"


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Last edited by svede1212; Oct 16, 2015 at 09:56 AM.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 03:22 AM
  #104  
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Looking good man, those heads though..........
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 08:51 AM
  #105  
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Lookin nice man. I hate it when I can't find a fastener and I bagged and tagged it all then come across it later. I get more worried about where the flippin thing might be.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 09:10 AM
  #106  
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What an ordeal. I'm glad you got that bolt out of there and the pan back on. Also very glad you found the original bolt that was missing, because as tuckin22 said, worrying about where it might be is terrifying.

But damn, those heads be pretty.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 09:23 AM
  #107  
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I'm fussing on the push rod length and rocker shimming right now. So far it looks like a .060"-ish shim is right but I can't make up my mind and the push rod length then changes and I adjust that and then. . . . it's back and forth.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #108  
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It sucks that you have to go through all that tedious process, just to have to wait for the pushrods to show up after you finally know what length to order.

But I'm jealous of you, despite the hassle and setbacks, you are still mounting magnificent mamo-fied mamo motorsports motor-heads on your engine... And that's F'ing awesome.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 10:36 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by papermushrooms
Looking good man, those heads though..........
They're real and they are fantastic
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 03:25 PM
  #110  
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OK. I've had those rockers on and off so many times. Only lost a pedestal once . I tried several different shim stacks several times each and I don't know how many times a different push rod length. I seemed to get my best pattern with a .060" shim even though I've read a couple that used .120". Caliper measured checker rod tip to tip at zero lash was 7.240" so I think I need a 7.275" for a .035" pre-load on 72532 lifters if ordering Manton 11/32" 0.120" wall. I'm a little confused though as when I measured my Comp rods that I had they were about .015" longer than marked and Manton says theirs is actual..

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Last edited by svede1212; Oct 14, 2015 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 05:49 PM
  #111  
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Trust your procedure man !! That swipe pattern looks golden 👍
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 02:04 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
They're real and they are fantastic
Yea i know, i've had a complete 402 LS2 Mamo engine sitting in bits for the last year ready for the machine shop, everything spec'd and sent by the man himself, YT ultralites, manton push rods, johnson lifters, ported fast 102 and a hand finished set of AFR 230's with all the fruit just before he left to do his own gig, wish they had the Mamo Motorsport on the front of them though lol, i really should pull finger and get it done.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 04:38 AM
  #113  
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That's exactly what my wipe pattern looked like at .060" with the YT's and Mamo220's. Then I added another .060" for .120" total and it got even more centered and narrow. At least give it a try. It may not work for you but with so much in the motor why not try a couple more washers.

I ordered exactly what I measured with my calipers through Manton and got exactly what I needed. Try to not over think it. Manton knows what they are doing. :-)
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 05:53 AM
  #114  
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Most pushrods are .015 to .020 longer than they are marked. Manton makes them the size you measure with the calipers. So if you had a measurement of 7.415 with the calipers you would order a 7.4 pushrod from comp but a 7.415 from manton.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 10:09 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Exidous
That's exactly what my wipe pattern looked like at .060" with the YT's and Mamo220's. Then I added another .060" for .120" total and it got even more centered and narrow. At least give it a try. It may not work for you but with so much in the motor why not try a couple more washers.

I ordered exactly what I measured with my calipers through Manton and got exactly what I needed. Try to not over think it. Manton knows what they are doing. :-)
This is what it looked like at .120" using a marking pen.

.120"

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The other picture in the post above from yesterday at .060" is with black ARP grease which kind of smeared out more. I have a pic of .060" with a marking pen too but was a little harder to see.

.060"

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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 10:16 AM
  #116  
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Good looking build you got going
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 10:34 AM
  #117  
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Fair enough. I'd stick to the .060" :-)
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 03:55 PM
  #118  
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Do you have to use the lightweight spring to check the wipe pattern?
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #119  
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It's best to otherwise you'll collapse the lifter and not get full lift. An alternative is use and old lifter and weld the cup in place making it a solid lifter.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 04:45 PM
  #120  
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i'd say use a checker spring if you can but when Darth did his and spoke to tony he said you will get close enough to full lift with the normal spring on it to where it wont matter
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