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Mamo 220s in 383 stroker

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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 05:09 PM
  #121  
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That last .020" from lifter collapse is not that important.

Johnson short travels.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 05:43 PM
  #122  
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7.275" long, 11/32" dia, .120" wall Manton rods ordered. Should be here in a week and I can button it up. I'll be needing new belts with the ATI damper that I have to find the part numbers for and get ordered too. Tomorrow is the new radiator install.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by svede1212
7.275" long, 11/32" dia, .120" wall Manton rods ordered. Should be here in a week and I can button it up. I'll be needing new belts with the ATI damper that I have to find the part numbers for and get ordered too. Tomorrow is the new radiator install.
Belt dropped from 79.0" to 77.5" on F body
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 09:24 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by svede1212
7.275" long, 11/32" dia, .120" wall Manton rods ordered. Should be here in a week and I can button it up. I'll be needing new belts with the ATI damper that I have to find the part numbers for and get ordered too. Tomorrow is the new radiator install.
Nice... Now the hard part... The wait.. Ha
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 07:57 AM
  #125  
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I got the 10% UD ATI and used the recommended P/N for both belts. The main belt was a tad tight on the tensioner but NOT at bind. The next size up would have been too long. I bought both in gatorback on amazon prime.

F-Body accessories.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #126  
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Well mine is a 25%/10%. I had the longer belt as I had a SLP 25%/25% UD before but the 10% AC pulley was between the two I had. I knew the number that ATI had listed for it was wrong as it was shorter than the 40.5" one that was on it. I ended up with a 42" four rib and that seemed to be perfect. Got the new Cold Case radiator installed yesterday too. My AC lines are pretty bent up from the three times I've moved the condenser and probably won't take getting bent again
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 02:12 PM
  #127  
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Took a picture while I still had the manifold off of my MAP sensor. As many have found out the sensor and plug hit the firewall with a FAST 102 so most move the sensor to behind the TB and extend the wires. Besides the extension of the wires now you have more clutter showing in the engine bay. Clutter is one reason I don't like normal catch cans.

This mod turns the sensor 90* counter-clockwise so the connector is down and it clears the firewall easily. I drilled a small hole in the FAST and used a sheet metal screw with a washer to secure the sensor in. You can't see any of it installed on the engine.

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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 05:43 PM
  #128  
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Touch-up painted some brackets and the power steering reservoir, cleaned up my PCV super catch can tube routing, installed a new stat and did an EVAP relocate. I've been wanting to do the relocate since I got my polished Holley valve covers a few years ago. Was a pretty easy mod. 5/16" gas line tubing and a short piece of two conductor wire, solder, soldering iron, heat shrink tubing and electrical tape. Looks a lot cleaner. Still waiting on the push rods.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 06:25 PM
  #129  
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I'd be interested in seeing pictures of the EVAP mod. I want to do a decent amount of clean up/dress up during my build, as well. Do you have the LS1 coils? If so, how did you get them to fit the Holley valve covers?
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 06:38 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by 5_litre_eater
I'd be interested in seeing pictures of the EVAP mod. I want to do a decent amount of clean up/dress up during my build, as well. Do you have the LS1 coils? If so, how did you get them to fit the Holley valve covers?
I have LS2 coils now. Besides a direct fit they are physically smaller. I do have pictures of when I used my LS1 coils though. I just ground a notch and used a washer on top. Was pretty easy and harder to see than the picture shows.

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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 07:52 PM
  #131  
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EVAP relocate is really easy. Get the hard tubing off of the solenoid. You have to cut one off to preserve the solenoid barb. Cut and splice in two wires for the solenoid. I soldered, heat shrink tubed and taped the connections. I ran a short piece of 5/16" gas line tubing from the EVAP hard line by the fire wall to the solenoid. I warmed the tube and pushed it over the ring on the ridged tube to make a very tight connections. There is next to no pressure in the line. The same was done at the solenoid and the solenoid to TB tube. I guess you could tee into the brake booster line. Manifold vacuum sucks it in when the solenoid opens up. The black line laying down below the injectors is pretty stealth though.

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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 03:11 PM
  #132  
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Finally got everything back together except what has to stay off for the push rods. I sure hope they are finally shipping soon. I was told by Manton it took 3 days to make them and 4 days approx for shipping to Michigan. I ordered them a week ago and it wasn't until today my credit card was charged but I haven't seen any eMail about them shipping. Still it's nice to think I shouldn't have to crawl under that car for a while.

Too bad my pretty "Mamofied" heads are mummified and hidden. The red plate on the left is for my Engall's Stiffy torque damper.


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This won't interest fbody or Corvette guys but for the few GTO owners this is my ducting of the front kidney grills. It is part of the effort I made when I developed my "Svede" OTR intake. I don't believe in "Ram Air" but I do believe in ambient temp air and the kidney grill "scoops" deliver it directly.


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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 07:13 PM
  #133  
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I found out rods are supposed to be here Tuesday and it's supposed to rain Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday . 13 days for Manton from order to delivery in Michigan so if you order be prepared. I'll be disappointed if I can't get a good tune in it and get it dynoed before winter gets here.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 10:40 AM
  #134  
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Waiting game sucks, I had to wait a whole year to get my 383 in and going. New england weather is fast approching.Luckily my tuner was able to sneak me in as i just dropped it off for a few days. Then to find out couldnt get the 1k mi old clutch to hold on the dyno! Ill have to deal with that now but motor runs good. I see your MI hopefully the snow holds out, im rootin for ya
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 11:58 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by dkota1968
Waiting game sucks, I had to wait a whole year to get my 383 in and going. New england weather is fast approching.Luckily my tuner was able to sneak me in as i just dropped it off for a few days. Then to find out couldnt get the 1k mi old clutch to hold on the dyno! Ill have to deal with that now but motor runs good. I see your MI hopefully the snow holds out, im rootin for ya
My car was down the entire summer last year to build the stroker. That's why I waited until October to do the final phase this year. At least I got to drive the car this summer. Last year winter came with a vengeance the first of November. I'm drinking a lot of Dr Pepper and burping hoping the CO2 will warm the earth up more this year.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 12:31 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by svede1212
My car was down the entire summer last year to build the stroker. That's why I waited until October to do the final phase this year. At least I got to drive the car this summer. Last year winter came with a vengeance the first of November. I'm drinking a lot of Dr Pepper and burping hoping the CO2 will warm the earth up more this year.
I'll tune my car rich to help you out...
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 04:06 PM
  #137  
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You guys are killing me, it's as dry as a popcorn ....hart out here on
The Left Coast. Lol
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by NAVYBLUE210
You guys are killing me, it's as dry as a popcorn ....hart out here on
The Left Coast. Lol
Don't move here. It is horrible. We have weather every single day and it is sunny or raining or cloudy or snow or warm or cold here. There's also water everywhere. You have to fish, swim or use boats a lot of time during the year. (we have the right amount of people too and very nice traffic).

Come on UPS! Get here.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 07:47 PM
  #139  
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Rods arrived at 3pm this afternoon and I got started on it right away. I finished buttoning everything up around 6:30. I had pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked it to get oil pressure going. I forgot and had already put the plugs in which of course made it crank slower but after 3 tries of about 15-20 seconds each my oil pressure gauge finally jumped up. Joy. Pulling that oil pump in the car was the worst thing I've ever done on this car and I've done about everything to the engine and drive train. I plugged the fuel pump relay back in and turned the key.

It fired right up but died about 20-30 second later hunting for idle. I tweaked a coupe of things and got it running. My garage air was barely breathable from all the smoke. I pulled it outside and let it idle and warm up while checking for oil, coolant and fuel leaks. Everything looked good so I piled the wife into the car and we took it to 5 Guys for some burgers and fries.

It's in closed loop so fueling looked good. I have a dash AFR gauge that runs full time. Because WOT goes to open loop I only gave it a coupe of little blasts. The throttle was very responsive and the tires very slippery .

A tropical storm from down south is almost here with a lot of expected rain so it will be Friday at the earliest I can get to tuning it. After 4 weeks I'm just happy and relieved it's running again.

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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 08:14 PM
  #140  
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Congratulations!
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