Redline-Motorsports

iTrader: (3)

Curiuos to know how a stock 6.0L truck intake flows vs. a stock LS6. I know the the truck intake is very tall and will most likely not fit a F-body but wonder if it will stuff into a C5??

Just brainstorming! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

LS1derfull

Great question, GMHTP had article a while back where ARE flow tested all 3. LS6 seemed to be the best flow but i am interested in Dyno or track comparisons with the Truck intake versus LS6. Anyone ?

LS1derfull

T.T.T. ??

Redline-Motorsports

iTrader: (3)

From looking at it it appears to have more plenum volume then the LS6. I'm sure that the difference in runner length would move some power around the curve. I have two more C5's to tear into in the next few weeks. I am going to fit in on the motor and check out the fit!

68LSS1

How well does the truck intake flow?
I asked a while back and this is what I found out.

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

The flow numbers on the truck intake aren't way off the LS6 numbers. Plus that flow test doesn't take into effect the trucks longer runners ramming the air into the cylinder. This should be a benefit for mid range torque, but won't produce the peak HP numbers that the short runner LS6 would.

DailyAluminumBlock

I don't understand why somebody doesn't get off their but and produce an intake with 300+ cfm capability and cost less then 500 bucks. I mean somebody with the capability like Holley or something. These things would sell like hotcakes.

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

I think the problem is money.

Holley did their best and came up with not much more of an intake for $500.

GM is chock-full of smart folks.

As a matter of opinion, methinks that a stock LS6 intake could be cut to both increase plenum volume AND shorten the runners AND get better results for peak power.

Now, I'm not gonna hack up my intake, so this is just wild speculation, but it makes sense from an engineering standpoint.

I thought Harlan tried something like this with an aluminum intake last year.


With an aluminum intake, I think I can create the best of both worlds... and here's how.

***I want royalties if someone tries this... heh...***

What you do is open up the runners a whole bunch, shorten them up by cutting them, and then coat the inside of the runner and plenum with a plastic.

***Note the following is thermodynamics 101 - the class I BARELY passed...***

First, the majority of heat transferred by an aluminum intake to the intake charge is CONDUCTIVE, not radiative. There simply isn't enough time to radiate heat. The air charge is through the plenum and runners and into the heads and cylinders in milliseconds. The amount of heat RADIATED by a 100 degree F aluminum intake and a 100 degree F plastic one are basically equivalent, aluminum CONDUCTS heat much better than plastic though.

To lower the amount of heat conducted (not radiated - because radiated heat is basically equivalent for our purposes), the simplest solution is to put a material that has rotten conductive characteristics in between the aluminmum and the air charge. Plastics fit this bill nicely as do ceramics.

The interior coating doesn't even have to be that thick. It just has to be a rotten conductor of heat. A couple of millimeters oughta do it. Hell, a thick paint might work.

Furthermore, I think our engines are fooled often times into thinking they are getting hotter charges than they are because the intake air temperature sensor can't react quickly enough to alter timing when a big rush of cold air is pulled by it at full throttle.


So here's the design proposition...

We need someone with the capability to take a Holley intake and port it huge, and then mold a plastic to the INSIDE of it where the air is rushing by, or coat it with a ceramic material.

The amount of conducted heat will go down and imitate the plastic intake in that respect, we can open the ports up and have the best of all three worlds.

BTW - coating the INSIDE of an intake runner in the head would help in the same way, as long as you can find a plastic that can withstand the heat and thermal expansion in the head.

<small>[ March 18, 2003, 09:53 AM: Message edited by: PacerX ]</small>

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

I guess you could etch the aluminum out of the inside with a 10% caustic soda mix.. You could get about .001 a minute or so but you would have to experiment on a sample of the same alloy. The fumes would be really bad and you would really have to keep the stuff circulating to get a even etch. You could protect the areas you dont want etched with some paint or something, then coat the inside with a thinned out epoxy, or acrylic, or whatever you decide would be fuel proof. The etched surface would enhance the adheasion of the coating, but you would have to neutralize it with like a 1% muratic or something, then rinse the snot out of it. I guess that some of the teflon coating places may have some ideas.

Ferrell

Couldn't you just ceramic coat the inside of the Holley.

FL