As requested:


idle vacuum both in the upper 14's. PredZ's has little less exhaust reversion below 1800RPM and it also has better BSFC.

That's not what I need. PipeMax uses certain longblock specs to calculate the ideal diameter and length of exhaust components. Look at the Pipemax link in my sig, and open it in either in Excel Online or download it. Ensure you're on the PipeMax sheet, then modify the dropdown menu's and the type of reports desired and send it to the address in that worksheet.

 

I decided to go ahead and fill out the full 3 page tick custom cam form, and send my current cams dyno sheet like they requested.

got the response back this morning. was a little bit surprised by the response. very different than his original suggestion (only a few of the major motor details given at that time)

heres what he sent
"Here is what I would go with:

235/243 .630/.610 111+2

I actually have this on the shelf, and it will work very well with the combo. It will make more power from 3000 and up, and rev further allowing you more average power."

i probly wont go this route, the duration seems a bit high, and the 630 lift is more than i wanted to run.
Thoughts?

 

It's an interesting cam recommendation. Yes, the durations are high, but it's not sacrificing the valve events as much as you would think:

Event-----227/235-----235/243
IVC--------43------------46.5
EVO-------53------------54.5
IVO--------4-------------8.5
EVC--------2-------------8.5
Overlap----6-------------17

Your Intake valve is opening a bit later, so you'll make peak HP at say 6500 vs 6300. peak torque will still be 4800. What he's done is make up the added duration with overlap instead of giving up IVC and EVO. It would be tricky to drive in the off idle range, but would pull like a freight train above 3,000. Also, with the added overlap, if you did have to go higher on a shift point, the power would carry past peak.

Probably won't be emissions friendly at all

 

I still think we're grasping at straws until we know what rough RPM range you'll be in at your desired tracks. Maybe ask some other drivers who have driven those tracks in F-Bodies (ask over on FRAX) what trans and final drive gearing they use, and what RPM ranges they seeing during laps. If there are hair pins, you might need to be lower in the RPM range to pull out of those corners, for example.

 

In this case, maybe not. He has been racing the car already. We know what cam he currently has and what he does not like about it. That is a good bit of information considering we know his combo.

 

ive driven TWS 3-4 events already in my fbody.
no hair pins, its a fast flowy track
i run 4.10s and in 4th gear threw the in-feild.
on the back straight i nearly top out 4th gear before turn 7. lifting at about 6600
the rest of the course is 4th gear 3000 to ~6000 and is where id like to focus.
on the front straight id been short shifting to 5th at 5000 to save valve springs (35k on them), heat etc.
with the new motor and new springs ill probly still short shift but move shift point to 6000, im not really conserned with straight speeds/times, but more in feild and longevity.

hope this helps

vid from last months event. sadly the tach is hidden by wheel.

 

well fella's D-day is upon me. Got email today my new short block will be done next week, and im still cam-less. Ive got to order it today or tommorrow to be here in time.

Ive learned a ton, but mostly learned ive still got tons to learn

Ive narrowed down my list. going by most of the suggestions here, but adhering to my original lift limits somewhat. (no particular order)

226/234 .60x"/.61x" LSA110+3 (Tick SNS 2 Mild)
228/228 .600"/.600" LSA112 (TSP 228R)
227/232 .612/.595 LSA113 (Titan 4)
228/232 .612/.600 LSA111 (FTI SS-HT)
226/234 .604"/.604" LSA113+3 (Geoff @ engpwrsys)
224/230 .612/.604 LSA114 Int. c/l 111 (Kip @ cammotion)
227/235 .618/.600 LSA112.5+3 (Martin @ Tick)
I also had a little fun thanks to Darths origonal suggestion and averaged all the reverse and neutral split cams above (all 6 cams, no SNS2)
226.6/231.8 609.6/.600.5 112.5[+3?] (Average Reverse Split)

i looked at the PatG cam but its simply too big for what i wanted to run. by alot. never could find specs on the redtan cam.(Edit, got reply to PM 226/230 114+3)

If you had to order one of these cams above today, for my situation/setup. What would be your #1 and #2 picks?

Thanks!

 

1. Martin's custom cam
2. Titan 4 - closest to your averages
3. Geoff at EPS cam (close third)

 

224/230 .612/.604 LSA114 Int. c/l 111 (Kip @ cammotion)

 

Looking at your video, it doesn't seem as if you are spending much time shifting, which would indicate to me you're not spending much time near your rev limiter and more below peak torque. I really think you're splitting hairs at this point, but my preferred order would be:

1) Martin's 227/235
2) Geoff's 226/234
3) Kip's 224/230

 

224/224 110/106

 

I think we could understand better why the pro's recomended what they did and help you with your decision if we knew more about your stage 2 862 heads.

 

I wish I knew more too
2.02 intake valve, 1.6 exhaust valve.
porting was all done by hand.
no known bowl or runner CCs or flow numbers.

they were bought second hand and ive just replaced valve springs over the years.
they came off a somewhat famous car from the time CTmorgan/ Bevo TA. and were proven performers. but mostly I just had to take there word.
however the valves I did just confirm by checking with calipers.

there currently getting new valves, seals, retainers, springs, seats, and valvejob.

 

Ordered

 

Just wondering if you had the new cam installed and tuned yet?

 

 

i haven't forgotten about this thread.
cam and new motor is in and has about 800 miles on it. but were still struggling with tune (idle) so right now it so rich and timing is so off power isnt good.
once we get a decent tune on it i will definatly post up dyno sheet and compare it to my old one.

-Cory

 

Update! (copy/pasted from my thread in the road race section)

They say you only get out of something what you put into it. So after my local tuner struggling for months with the new motor, i decided to make the 5 hour trip to Victoria to see the famous Texas tuner Patrick Guerra.




before starting i did a little 9am injector swap. went from 26lb to 36lb




Dyno Pull #1

Dyno Pull #2



car put down 426HP and 397TQ on a Mustang Brand dyno. im sure on a normal DynoJet would add 10HP or so more.

(origonal local tuner had it at 415 on a DynoJet but later had to add fuel and timing which probly lowered it to the 405 range)

all in all i probly gained in the 20-25HP range or so, but most importantly its running right now. and efficient.
it will cold start and idle, and even idle with the AC on. and im sure it wont shoot fire when i lift and stink like hell from being so rich like it was before.

cant wait to test on track!

 

What were the actual spec's on the cam card you received from Martin?

 

nearly identical to what i ordered
227/235 .619/.600 LSA112.5+3