UTfan01SS

iTrader: (1)

What's a good assembly lube to use on the bottom end while assembling a new LS1? I've seen people just use motor oil on the main and rods, seems like they would require a little more protection at start up and break in... Thoughts?

And what type of oil do you guys recommend for initial break in? I've heard people using Rotella diesel oil but didn't know if this was standard practice or not. I will be switching to Mobil 1 synthetic after 5,000 miles, but not before.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

I used Brad Penn break-in oil and I don't remember the assembly lube name but got it at the auto store. It was much more sticky and viscous than regular oils.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I use oil on the bearings, Clevite Bearing Guard on the wrist pins, valve stems and oil pump gears, and CMD on the valve and pushrod tips. There isn't much load on an engine when you first fire it up so assembly lube isn't really necessary unless it may sit for a long time. I don't like assembly lube on the bearings because it doesn't let the crank spin as freely so it can hide something dragging that I could feel if oil was used.

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

I just bought these

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-2215-r...-lube-4oz.aspx
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3949-j...ak-in-oil.aspx

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Go to autozone and get the Lucas assembly lube

Oil I would use joe Gibbs br30 break in oil.. Expensive but good stuff and it's actually designed for engine break in vs other stuff that "will" work ok

NAVYBLUE210

AMSOIL makes both Assembly Lube, and Break In Oil
(30 WT Mineral High ZDDP) the only Non-Synthetic in
Their complete line. Hadn't thought about assembly lube
Hiding drag in Crank/Bearings, worth consideration if there will
Be no storage/lag time between assembly and start up I suppose.

1BAD98LS1

iTrader: (33)

x2, the same two items I used on my engine. And It's still together after 13 dyno pulls over 7k

Jase01

If I read correctly the dyno pulls were with the BR30?

Previously used Johnson assembly lube by sealed power, great stuff, it helped an engine live when I had trouble getting oil pressure on start up. I still had some but it was 20 years old so I didn't take a chance just in case, used Torco on the latest with BR30 currently in the oil pan.

Jason.

1BAD98LS1

iTrader: (33)

That's correct, if I remember correctly I think Joe Gibbs site said to change it after 400mi but I changed it after idle, warm up cycle, tuning, dyno pulls etc.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

I used Redline Assembly Lube on valve stems, rocker tips, pushrods, lifter rollers and on the cam lobes, cam journals I used the Clevite bearing guard etc. Clevite bearing guard on the bearings, VR1 10w30 for breakin and the life of the motor.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I also like Redline assembly lube.

For break-in oil, I use Penzoil non synthetic. No need for high zinc oil, these engines don't have flat tappet lifters-the ONLY reason to use a high zinc.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

So you would start a new engine bone dry inside. It takes a few seconds for oil pressure....so that would many many revolutions metal-to-metal friction.

No...?

.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

FWIW, the factory (GM, Ford, everybody) simply use a squirt of oil on any bearing surface. You can see this in the many "How It's Made" videos of engines being manufactured.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Not bone dry. Like I said, I use oil on the bearings. I actually just assembled my LS2 last night.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If residual motor oil is fine for the thousands of starts the engine will see over it's life why is it some of you think it insufficient or consider that "dry" for initial startup?

Could it be you are so beaten down by a life exposed to MARKETING that you have lost all ability to REASON for yourself and instead must be TOLD what to BUY at every turn in life?

If one wants to use a dino oil for break in because synthetics are "too slippery" I can see that, or if one wants to use something thicker because they expect a long interval between assembly and startup and want a little more cling fine but the belief oil is insufficient and harmful on first start shows an inability to reason.

Back to the long interval between assembly and break in, how many of you leave the car sit for at least a few weeks at a time in winter? You better tear it down and get some assembly lube on that stuff or I am sure it will scatter moments after startup, right?

Now just thinking aloud, I wonder if some of the "break in oils" are low burn point so it burns off the bore letting the rings mate? Synthetics tend to be high burn point and as such wouldn't be cleaned off the cylinder for the rings to mate????? Maybe this is part of the "no synthetics during break in".

I find the topic interesting but as with so many other things the folks that tend to obsess on it can't see reality and experience past their theories.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

True but when it sits regularly it gets oil pressure right away. I pulled the plugs, etc when cranking it to get oil but other than pouring some oil in the oil pressure sensor oil the system was "dry".

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I'm of the OPINION that a non synthetic oil should be used on first virgin start up to help the rings seat sooner. Yes, synthetic oil will still allow the rings to seat but it'll take more time.

NO, I do not have scientific proof or documentation of this but this has been the common way to do a first start up for many years now. I'll continue the tradition.

csmc711

iTrader: (4)

I was gonna say the same thing but a little nicer, lol. I think all thats needed is a 5 gallon home made oil primer/luber and your good to go. If you dont have that, whip some oil and grease together t make a nice paste and you should be good to go.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Don't all Vettes come w/ initial fill of syn?
As for dry starts...That's what a pressure pot is for. As mentioned, some regular oil on assy. Hit it w/ the pressure pot, start it.
As for break in..We run them on the dyno for 20-30 min, 10% load, a few revs, shut down.
Cut the filter, check for leaks, and it's hammer time. No bs 5000 mi breakin periods.

csmc711

iTrader: (4)

Old geezer!?!?!? Wow guy, good to see you!

I will add 2 things to a break in though. One is, take a look at the Hastings ring site. They have some good info on breaking in rings. In this case it is called seating them, doesn't take long and none of my backyard builds have had issues. With that said, Hastings DOES recommend a quick break in procedure to seat rings. Lastly, and, for sht n giggles, I would carefully heat cycle the engine 3 or 4 times by bringing it up to temps and letting it cool off. This should stabilize the metallurgy of the engine. Metal being metal, its hard enough nothing will happen to it even if you started it up for the first time, warmed it up and ran it down the 1/4 mile, but, its nice to do if your a nice guy .