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Both shops are correct in that it will work....I've run uglier **** in budget dirt track roundy round stuff.....however I also know what a kick *** crank guy can make those journals look like. I'm sure the camera quality makes it look worse than it is but for 40-50 bucks it should look better that's all....GL man
It doesn't look terrible, but then again I've always used new cranks in the previous two engines I've built. So I'm comparing them to this... I trust Race Engine Design, their crank specialist was an older guy who seemed to know his stuff. Surely if it was questionable they would tell me. I've already bought Clevite H series Main bearings, recommended by Summit Racing.
I may get one more professional opinion from a shop in Cleveland before I start building it. The rods look great and the shop seemed to do a really good job on boring the block. We'll see when I check the tolerances on pre-assembly.
On the camshaft retainer plate, the seal is gone on the back side of it. I guess it was removed at the machine shop... So is that something I can buy or do I need to purchase a new retainer plate?
I also noticed the oil galley plug was removed. Any tricks to that? Just lube the O-ring and install it?
On the camshaft retainer plate, the seal is gone on the back side of it. I guess it was removed at the machine shop... So is that something I can buy or do I need to purchase a new retainer plate?
I also noticed the oil galley plug was removed. Any tricks to that? Just lube the O-ring and install it?
Need to purchase a new plate. There are 2 different ones, I was able to find the original flat type at Carquest. The brand was Victor Reinz but I lost the part number.
have the crank turned and polished and have them check it for cracks. Whats the point of installing something like that while you already have it out and can fix it.
have the crank turned and polished and have them check it for cracks. Whats the point of installing something like that while you already have it out and can fix it.
Another option is get another crank.
No......I do not agree with having the crank turned. Use it as it, polished. As it will be slightly loose to start with. Or, get another stock crank and have it polished. For me, and I've built some pretty stout boosted and nitrous engines for people on this forum, when machine shops turn cranks, no matter how bad *** your buddy is at it.....the bearings tolerances are all over the place, and you need to buy a few different bearing packs to juggle things to get it right.
If you have it turned .010, and put .010 bearings in it......chances are.....it will be tight on some, and loose on others.
The biggest thing I've see so far with your engine setup is the stock resized rods and APR bolts. I would without a doubt buy the SCAT pro comp rods, they are less than 300 new, and holt a **** ton of power.
A 5.3 crank is balanced differently than a 5.7 crank....pistons are lighter on a 5.3. I wouldn't go this route.
Need to purchase a new plate. There are 2 different ones, I was able to find the original flat type at Carquest. The brand was Victor Reinz but I lost the part number.
[url]https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/835847-does-anyone-have-cam-retainer-plate-handy.html
The barbell is cheap, just get a new one with a new oring on it and oil it up. There is a spec in the book for it, I think most ignore it.
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