5.3 build help please.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2015
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5.3 build help please. So I've got a 5.3 out of a 2001 Tahoe, for a swap. I believe they are around 300hp stock? Anyway. Want to freshen it up using stock internals, new rings bearings ect. Want to put a cam in it, most likely going to run a 4L60 I think. How much can can I get in there with stock converter, would like a choppy idle, live that sound! And would like to get rid of truck intake for a a LS1-6? Intake. Will it bolt on? Heads the same? How much power can be reliably made NA with a 5.3. I've heard 400hp is attainable.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Portland, Oregon
The truck intake flows better than the ls1 intake, so if it fits, I would use it. If you're looking at getting rid of the truck intake for appearances, not fitment, then look up shaved truck intakes and see how they can look with a little bit of time and effort.
If the truck intake won't fit, then the ls6 intake is an excellent choice. But I wouldn't bother with an ls1 intake, at all.
As for cams, get a custom grind from one of the vendors on this site. They will hook you up with exactly what you're looking for.
Please don't mess up your cam selection worrying about what the cam sounds like. Get a cam that performs well, then mess with idle speed and timing to get the lope you want.
If the truck intake won't fit, then the ls6 intake is an excellent choice. But I wouldn't bother with an ls1 intake, at all.
As for cams, get a custom grind from one of the vendors on this site. They will hook you up with exactly what you're looking for.
Please don't mess up your cam selection worrying about what the cam sounds like. Get a cam that performs well, then mess with idle speed and timing to get the lope you want.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 5
The truck intake flows better than the ls1 intake, so if it fits, I would use it. If you're looking at getting rid of the truck intake for appearances, not fitment, then look up shaved truck intakes and see how they can look with a little bit of time and effort.
If the truck intake won't fit, then the ls6 intake is an excellent choice. But I wouldn't bother with an ls1 intake, at all.
As for cams, get a custom grind from one of the vendors on this site. They will hook you up with exactly what you're looking for.
Please don't mess up your cam selection worrying about what the cam sounds like. Get a cam that performs well, then mess with idle speed and timing to get the lope you want.
If the truck intake won't fit, then the ls6 intake is an excellent choice. But I wouldn't bother with an ls1 intake, at all.
As for cams, get a custom grind from one of the vendors on this site. They will hook you up with exactly what you're looking for.
Please don't mess up your cam selection worrying about what the cam sounds like. Get a cam that performs well, then mess with idle speed and timing to get the lope you want.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Portland, Oregon
Lots of good tick cams, for sure. A good portion of them were spec'ed by a man named Martin Smallwood, and he has his own business now. Both are great choices, and both tick and Martin are regulars on this site.
I, personally, like cam motion, and would say to call kip. Cam motion cores are made of a really good material, and their lobe profiles provide quiet and stable valve control.
But that's not necessarily saying one is better than the other, just my personal preference.
Do some research on the trailblazer SS intake manifold. It's also used on all 2010+ trucks, but you have to step up to a fast intake to beat the tbss intake. It's actually pretty impressive, considering a brand new tbss intake is cheaper than a used ls6 intake.
I, personally, like cam motion, and would say to call kip. Cam motion cores are made of a really good material, and their lobe profiles provide quiet and stable valve control.
But that's not necessarily saying one is better than the other, just my personal preference.
Do some research on the trailblazer SS intake manifold. It's also used on all 2010+ trucks, but you have to step up to a fast intake to beat the tbss intake. It's actually pretty impressive, considering a brand new tbss intake is cheaper than a used ls6 intake.
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,189
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From: Portland, Oregon
Shaving the truck intake not only makes it look better, but also helps with fitment. In some applications, no amount of shaving will make it work, though. But I would definitely at least try it first.
When rebuilding on a budget, you really need to prioritize your spending. All the small stuff adds up fast. Especially if you are opening up the shortblock to replace bearings and rings. I imagine that realistically speaking, most beginning budgets are about dry by the time you reassemble your shortblock with new bearings, so I would get the custom cam and the biggest headers that will fit, spend whatever is left on a good tune.
When rebuilding on a budget, you really need to prioritize your spending. All the small stuff adds up fast. Especially if you are opening up the shortblock to replace bearings and rings. I imagine that realistically speaking, most beginning budgets are about dry by the time you reassemble your shortblock with new bearings, so I would get the custom cam and the biggest headers that will fit, spend whatever is left on a good tune.
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From: Portland, Oregon
All the hideous plastic fins and ridges on the top of the intake are removed with a dremel, tin snips, rasp, sandpaper, lots of cussing and elbow grease.
You can either fill in some holes that will result from removing some of the plastic studs on the top of the intake, or you can study up on which ones need to be left alone to avoid those holes.
The holes can be filled in a number of ways... Epoxy resin/hardener, plastic welding, fiberglass over the top... There's multiple threads about it to walk you through the process in detail.
You can either fill in some holes that will result from removing some of the plastic studs on the top of the intake, or you can study up on which ones need to be left alone to avoid those holes.
The holes can be filled in a number of ways... Epoxy resin/hardener, plastic welding, fiberglass over the top... There's multiple threads about it to walk you through the process in detail.
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I agree with using the stock truck intake. It may not be, due to a loner runner length perhaps, a high-rpm wonder, but it does the job.
Second if you are on a shoe-string budget then forget about digging into the bottom end unless you really have reason to suspect sown thing is aloof with the engine. It should have come cheap &, if from a JY with a warranty for 90days, so if it grenades go get another one. Why put as much money & time into messing with it if it will work for your needs & hold together?
On the converter side: if running a 4L60 go get a stock converter from a late 90's 4.3L S10/ blazer. They are like 10.5"-11" converters & behind the torque of a 5.3 will stall about 2500-3000 rpm. They will live so long, but again for next to nothing you can replace it with another one if for some reason it won't lock up ( not a big deal since it only adds a few hundred RPM vs lock up) but have the performance advantage of a smaller converter. You should be able to score one for like $75.
On the cam side: The converter will help with a cam. Don't tune it to run like crap like a Harley. Tune it for a good A/F ratio & a solid idle. You'll be glad you did when you fill up less often. Spend your money on top end pieces like valve springs & such. A good lift cam that will wake that engine up needs more spring pressure & control of the valves.
Second if you are on a shoe-string budget then forget about digging into the bottom end unless you really have reason to suspect sown thing is aloof with the engine. It should have come cheap &, if from a JY with a warranty for 90days, so if it grenades go get another one. Why put as much money & time into messing with it if it will work for your needs & hold together?
On the converter side: if running a 4L60 go get a stock converter from a late 90's 4.3L S10/ blazer. They are like 10.5"-11" converters & behind the torque of a 5.3 will stall about 2500-3000 rpm. They will live so long, but again for next to nothing you can replace it with another one if for some reason it won't lock up ( not a big deal since it only adds a few hundred RPM vs lock up) but have the performance advantage of a smaller converter. You should be able to score one for like $75.
On the cam side: The converter will help with a cam. Don't tune it to run like crap like a Harley. Tune it for a good A/F ratio & a solid idle. You'll be glad you did when you fill up less often. Spend your money on top end pieces like valve springs & such. A good lift cam that will wake that engine up needs more spring pressure & control of the valves.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 5
I agree with using the stock truck intake. It may not be, due to a loner runner length perhaps, a high-rpm wonder, but it does the job.
Second if you are on a shoe-string budget then forget about digging into the bottom end unless you really have reason to suspect sown thing is aloof with the engine. It should have come cheap &, if from a JY with a warranty for 90days, so if it grenades go get another one. Why put as much money & time into messing with it if it will work for your needs & hold together?
On the converter side: if running a 4L60 go get a stock converter from a late 90's 4.3L S10/ blazer. They are like 10.5"-11" converters & behind the torque of a 5.3 will stall about 2500-3000 rpm. They will live so long, but again for next to nothing you can replace it with another one if for some reason it won't lock up ( not a big deal since it only adds a few hundred RPM vs lock up) but have the performance advantage of a smaller converter. You should be able to score one for like $75.
On the cam side: The converter will help with a cam. Don't tune it to run like crap like a Harley. Tune it for a good A/F ratio & a solid idle. You'll be glad you did when you fill up less often. Spend your money on top end pieces like valve springs & such. A good lift cam that will wake that engine up needs more spring pressure & control of the valves.
Second if you are on a shoe-string budget then forget about digging into the bottom end unless you really have reason to suspect sown thing is aloof with the engine. It should have come cheap &, if from a JY with a warranty for 90days, so if it grenades go get another one. Why put as much money & time into messing with it if it will work for your needs & hold together?
On the converter side: if running a 4L60 go get a stock converter from a late 90's 4.3L S10/ blazer. They are like 10.5"-11" converters & behind the torque of a 5.3 will stall about 2500-3000 rpm. They will live so long, but again for next to nothing you can replace it with another one if for some reason it won't lock up ( not a big deal since it only adds a few hundred RPM vs lock up) but have the performance advantage of a smaller converter. You should be able to score one for like $75.
On the cam side: The converter will help with a cam. Don't tune it to run like crap like a Harley. Tune it for a good A/F ratio & a solid idle. You'll be glad you did when you fill up less often. Spend your money on top end pieces like valve springs & such. A good lift cam that will wake that engine up needs more spring pressure & control of the valves.
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Here's some reading for you if you haven't seen it.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/pro...l-block-build/
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/pro...l-block-build/
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 5
Here's some reading for you if you haven't seen it.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/pro...l-block-build/
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/pro...l-block-build/
If you take your engine apart and find the rod and main bearings in good shape, you can simply clean everything real well, including the block and pistons and reassemble it.
The two 5.3's I've disassembled were dirty inside, but in excellent shape. One needed cam bearings.
As David said, The TBSS intake looks really promising. Be aware that it uses a 4 bolt 90mm TB and those are all drive by wire. I'd bet you can find an adapter to let you use the cable drive 3 bolt TB. Or go aftermarket, but those are spendy.
Fun project
The two 5.3's I've disassembled were dirty inside, but in excellent shape. One needed cam bearings.
As David said, The TBSS intake looks really promising. Be aware that it uses a 4 bolt 90mm TB and those are all drive by wire. I'd bet you can find an adapter to let you use the cable drive 3 bolt TB. Or go aftermarket, but those are spendy.
Fun project
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 5
If you take your engine apart and find the rod and main bearings in good shape, you can simply clean everything real well, including the block and pistons and reassemble it.
The two 5.3's I've disassembled were dirty inside, but in excellent shape. One needed cam bearings.
As David said, The TBSS intake looks really promising. Be aware that it uses a 4 bolt 90mm TB and those are all drive by wire. I'd bet you can find an adapter to let you use the cable drive 3 bolt TB. Or go aftermarket, but those are spendy.
Fun project
The two 5.3's I've disassembled were dirty inside, but in excellent shape. One needed cam bearings.
As David said, The TBSS intake looks really promising. Be aware that it uses a 4 bolt 90mm TB and those are all drive by wire. I'd bet you can find an adapter to let you use the cable drive 3 bolt TB. Or go aftermarket, but those are spendy.
Fun project
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 723
Likes: 4
It is a good idea to check the intake for cracking behind the TB. Also I disconnect the coolant lines to the TB just in the event it does crack. Does your intake have the EGR tube or is it plugged? If you unhook the coolant lines you need to plug the EGR if it isn't already.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 5
It is a good idea to check the intake for cracking behind the TB. Also I disconnect the coolant lines to the TB just in the event it does crack. Does your intake have the EGR tube or is it plugged? If you unhook the coolant lines you need to plug the EGR if it isn't already.
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Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Mississippi
With the stock heads and intake in place you'll need a 210 duration minimum cam to cracked 400 at crank.
Test have shown a 210/218 cam is the best all around camshaft for a 5.3 that don't gives up a lot of power on the low end to gain up top. This cam pulls hard everywhere. Richard made 411 horse with this cam.
Test have shown a 210/218 cam is the best all around camshaft for a 5.3 that don't gives up a lot of power on the low end to gain up top. This cam pulls hard everywhere. Richard made 411 horse with this cam.