No more needles!
02-02-2016, 03:32 PM
#41
TECH Senior Member
The rocker bushings would rely on the lifters working properly to pump oil up the pushrods and onto the rockers
( as would roller rockers anyway... bushings just more so )
( as would roller rockers anyway... bushings just more so )
02-06-2016, 08:09 AM
#44
IMO they should last much longer.
The load with a bushing is spread out over a much larger surface area which reduces wear since that contact load is spread out. With a needle bearing the load is concentrated on just a few needles and those same needles are loaded over and over again.
Although the load that the bushing sees is concentrated on the same area over and over again, the key is that it is spread out over a larger area which reduces wear compared to a needle bearing.
One thing I'd also like to mention, anyone using these bushing trunion kits should invest in a good oil that has high amounts of ZDDP. Most of your shelf oils like Royal Purple, Mobile 1, etc. have 800 or less PPM ZDDP. IMO this is not enough to keep a push rod motor happy with higher lift camshafts, more aggressive lobe designs and higher spring pressures. For example, VR1 has 1300 PPM ZDDP and some oils like Brad Penn ($$$) have 2000 PPM or more.
Even if you don't use these bushing trunion kits, IMO if you have an aftermarket camshaft with more lift than stock, aftermarket springs with more spring pressure than stock, or any other internal engine modifications I'd recommend an oil with high levels of ZDDP.
Vavoline VR1 is one of the best oils to use in these situations IMO. I like VR1 because it's cheap ($6.00-$7.50 a quart depending on where you live) and it has worked extremely well in every engine I have used it in.
The load with a bushing is spread out over a much larger surface area which reduces wear since that contact load is spread out. With a needle bearing the load is concentrated on just a few needles and those same needles are loaded over and over again.
Although the load that the bushing sees is concentrated on the same area over and over again, the key is that it is spread out over a larger area which reduces wear compared to a needle bearing.
One thing I'd also like to mention, anyone using these bushing trunion kits should invest in a good oil that has high amounts of ZDDP. Most of your shelf oils like Royal Purple, Mobile 1, etc. have 800 or less PPM ZDDP. IMO this is not enough to keep a push rod motor happy with higher lift camshafts, more aggressive lobe designs and higher spring pressures. For example, VR1 has 1300 PPM ZDDP and some oils like Brad Penn ($$$) have 2000 PPM or more.
Even if you don't use these bushing trunion kits, IMO if you have an aftermarket camshaft with more lift than stock, aftermarket springs with more spring pressure than stock, or any other internal engine modifications I'd recommend an oil with high levels of ZDDP.
Vavoline VR1 is one of the best oils to use in these situations IMO. I like VR1 because it's cheap ($6.00-$7.50 a quart depending on where you live) and it has worked extremely well in every engine I have used it in.
02-07-2016, 09:13 AM
#45
I personally wouldn't run Mobil 1 on a lawn mower, but to each their own.
I ran the non-synthetic VR1 for a while, but it made my valvetrain a bit more "pronounced" let's say.
I swapped back to Castrol Edge 5w30 synthetic and couldn't be happier. It's what I run in everything I own.
I ran the non-synthetic VR1 for a while, but it made my valvetrain a bit more "pronounced" let's say.
I swapped back to Castrol Edge 5w30 synthetic and couldn't be happier. It's what I run in everything I own.
02-07-2016, 12:36 PM
#46
I personally wouldn't run Mobil 1 on a lawn mower, but to each their own.
I ran the non-synthetic VR1 for a while, but it made my valvetrain a bit more "pronounced" let's say.
I swapped back to Castrol Edge 5w30 synthetic and couldn't be happier. It's what I run in everything I own.
I ran the non-synthetic VR1 for a while, but it made my valvetrain a bit more "pronounced" let's say.
I swapped back to Castrol Edge 5w30 synthetic and couldn't be happier. It's what I run in everything I own.
02-07-2016, 08:20 PM
#47
TECH Senior Member
+1
I want to know/learn why/whynot.
I have seen many times people swear against some particular brand oil based on some catastrohe that was unrelated to that oil.
I want to know/learn why/whynot.
I have seen many times people swear against some particular brand oil based on some catastrohe that was unrelated to that oil.
02-08-2016, 11:22 AM
#49
In a nutshell without derailing this thread, the formula has VASTLY changed since the time FBodies & C5's were produced. The High Mileage stuff is okay though.
If you've never checked out Bobistheoilguy.com trust me, there's a WEALTH of knowledge over there STRICTLY about oil.
If you've never checked out Bobistheoilguy.com trust me, there's a WEALTH of knowledge over there STRICTLY about oil.
02-08-2016, 10:45 PM
#50
In a nutshell without derailing this thread, the formula has VASTLY changed since the time FBodies & C5's were produced. The High Mileage stuff is okay though.
If you've never checked out Bobistheoilguy.com trust me, there's a WEALTH of knowledge over there STRICTLY about oil.
If you've never checked out Bobistheoilguy.com trust me, there's a WEALTH of knowledge over there STRICTLY about oil.
02-09-2016, 02:58 PM
#54
I recommend a minimum of 1000 PPM, and of course anything higher than that is a plus. VR1 has 1200 PPM or more IIRC.
I have had a few inquiries into pre-assembled kits using new rocker arms. I am checking into this currently.