GTOFAN91

Hey guys my engine is toast It was a stock bottom end ls1, with EPS cam, FAST, and some worked 243's. and lots of fine tuning to get it the way I wanted :/ All said and done if it wiped the heads out, I would say we lost 5-6 grand not just in parts, but time and tuning.

Got it dialed in tune wise, was out playing with the new suspension, doing some hits, and clutch dumps when BOOM! It hooked hard, and BOOM. Oil all in my engine bay, and it wont even turn over.

Long story short the plan was do some 1/4 mile stuff with a 150 shot in the spring, was hoping for bottom 11's to high 10's. Car was stripped of everything from AC, Back seats, V brace, ect ect.... Sat on fats and skinnies.

Now we have to plan again, what can we do to make it a comfy car again. I have most of my original parts, such as the front seats, AC stuff, and 06 18 inch wheels.

I do have a brand new 05-06 bumper im putting on, and ditching the cowl for the 05 hood.

What i really want is something I can drive a couple hundred miles at a time, with AC, and go to the track and run lets say 12.0x's to 12,20's.

I already have another ls1 short block from a local guy, I gotta get my heads checked out, and see how it stands, but what options do you guys recommend to achieve my goals. I love my old cam, I might look into another more mild EPS.

GTOFAN91

Second time I had an engine let go, in less than a year! Thats why im sick of the all out 1/4 mile stuff.

soloman369

iTrader: (13)

Please explain why getting the car to hook would cause your car to go BOOM?

GTOFAN91

No idea, it hooked, squatted, and as it was going through the RPM's it was done.

soloman369

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like you threw a rod by the very vague description

joecar

Pics...?

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

If you're blowing up engines one after another, then theres gotta be something wrong with how it was put together, and/or how it was tuned. I've ran my old stock bottom end 1994 LT1 for years into the extreme, with nitrous as well with no problem. All it had was a well thought out heads and cam package. Check out the vids on my sig, running 11 flat all motor!

GTOFAN91

Soloman369 I don't know what your trying to get across??? I know the engine is broke, and yes probably a rod, or a piston. Not what im trying to figure out. Also what would you like to know more about? The post was not meant to be descriptive to the incident, I posted to figure out idea's on a good setup that lives with daily driving.

BOLO, I don't know whats wrong, both engines were stock bottom end's, with cam's installed correctly, and degree'd correctly with PTV measurements taken. This engine was something as far as a piston, or a rod letting go. First was head gasket related that warped my old 243's, and wiped other things along with it. Im just done trying to run max effort things on a non mxx effort budget. This car has been a curse, and im looking for realiable fun power now, and open to suggestion's

soloman369

iTrader: (13)

I just don't get you though... Spends most of the post crying about messing up his engine and says hes done with the 1/4 stuff, then complains its his second engine hes trashed , then says wants it to be a daily, then wants to put more performance stuff in it so he can go 12s at the track?

Kinds hard to give advice to someone who is all wishwashy

DUSTYWS6

Get a 2016 camaro SS

joecar

Until you figure out what the cause was, you will be destined to have the same failure again, even if you avoid drag racing, that is how Murphy's Law operates.

gtfoxy

I hate that jerk!

But yeah, guys are making 1,000 HP on SBE's but yet some people can't get stuff to live with bolt-ons & NA...

OP needs to go to a nice low mileage 5.3 or 6.0 & add a bit if turbo powered goodness. A SBE motor with HCI on 10psi would be very tunable & fast.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Looking forward vs backward -

I say go with a 6.0 and then almost go heads only on the build. Get something like Mamo 220's or 235's. Good lifters, 11/32 pushrods, and a milder cam like the Titan 4. Won't set track records but will be a blast in the street. Would still be in the 11's if you actually timed it. Run 3.73 gears.

Keep street tires on it so if you dump the clutch the weak point is between the tires and pavement. In other words, spin the tires rather than break something. That's my $0.02

rpturbo

iTrader: (47)

Weak point in his old setup, should have been the rearend anyway. OP, how many miles were on that sbe?

Mazzenger

iTrader: (5)

You should be able to hit low 12s with a small cam and a good exhaust
or amazing heads and good exhaust.

I would almost say do all bolt-ons and maybe heads afterwards. See where that gets yeah.

Mike 02T/A

iTrader: (28)

I feel your pain! My motor finally went late December. It had a 150 shot of spray on it since 2005. Switched to boost within the last 2-3 years or so. SBE plus rod bolts and it went through hell everytime I drove it!

GTOFAN91

Thanks guys, I was told that motor had 60k on it, but who knows!

This isn't supposed to be a thread for people with snide comments, and no advice come to banter someone. If you have nothing to say that is constructive leave

Ill say once more that im not being "wishy washy" I don't want my car to rattle around so much, I won't be using it at different class events at local tracks anymore, I just want a nice setup that I can daily drive, and tack to a grudge night here and there and run low 12's.

Its not that hard to understand what I was looking for in the first place if you actually read my post.

I do like the 6.0l option, with the Mamo's. Are you saying specifically an LS2 6.0? Or LQ4 or something along those lines?

I have been reading about turbo 5.3's, and even 4.8's but I don't think I am ready to go down that path yet.

GTOFAN91

ALso forgot to ask, and this may seem noobish but I have to ask. If I go 6.0l route will my headers, FAST, injectors, and harness work without major modification?

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Yes it will. A completely stock motor with a 100 shot will get into the 12's when needed and still be a reliable daily driver.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Given your rattle comment, you're really going to like a Mamo set up. He tends to go for a moderate cam with great heads rather than pretty good heads with a ginormic cam. The 220's will give you tons of torque and still carry power past 7200. The 235's will carry power even higher, but you'll lose some down low unless you go for bigger cubes due to port velocities. Gear it (if you haven't already) and you'll run really strong with the reliability for a DD. Tremendous low and midrange response from Tony's heads.

Imagine showing up at track night with a car that has a somewhat noticeable idle, where it pops, but not loping and surging, so you get underestimated, and then run high 11's. Put a bumper sticker on it that says "granny taxi" for full effect. You'll be the man vs the over-cammed-fuel-stinking-rattle-trap-that-runs -3's-but-sounds-really-cool-guy next to you.

I built a 5.7 with mamo 220's 6 months ago and DD it, so you can check my thread. 5-liter-eater just finished his very similar build, so you can hear how they both sound. I've got a little more cam than 5LE, and I"m manual, he's auto. FWIW, I have 6400 miles on it since the build.

Mamo's heads will work with any of the blocks, so you're good there. If it were my car, I would go aluminum, but there is nothing wrong with a LQ4. That's just personal preference. And compression. But you can do that with an LQ9 as well.