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Straub Bushing Trunion Kits?

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Old 07-17-2016, 07:18 PM
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Here's another thought, because to be honest these look starved for oil just like spun bearings? How is the cars oil pressure? Are restricted push rods being used? Also, even with the oiling flats, if the bushing were sunk to deep, would oil get to the bushing?
Old 07-17-2016, 07:34 PM
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After looking at more pics of the old style vs new, it is clear the old style directed the oil to the bushing. The new style allows oil to get to the bushing but it does not direct it there. The old style also looks like it would fight deflection better with the two oil channels vs the big gap of the new style.
Old 07-17-2016, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jblankenship
Is this an attempt to catch an attitude? I'm only stating what I found and you clearly knew what I meant. So, if you feel superior good for you. .003 would be very tight especially with any type of expansion from heat. Was this spec recommended to you? Yes, I'm saying I think you set the bushings too deep.
No attitude on my end.

As far as the bushings being set too deep, that is not the case.

Root cause has been determined and will be released in a few days.
Old 07-17-2016, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jblankenship
Here's another thought, because to be honest these look starved for oil just like spun bearings? How is the cars oil pressure? Are restricted push rods being used? Also, even with the oiling flats, if the bushing were sunk to deep, would oil get to the bushing?
OP on this LS2 is 47-49 cold and 35-40 hot.

PR are comp 5/16 .080 wall
Old 07-17-2016, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by brobinson216
No attitude on my end.

As far as the bushings being set too deep, that is not the case.

Root cause has been determined and will be released in a few days.
Who will be releasing the info?
Old 07-17-2016, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Who will be releasing the info?
I will as time permits.

plan on measurements again first of the week.

It looks as if the flat edges pulled material from the bronze during press, in which that material rolled to the bottom of the trunion.
Old 07-17-2016, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jblankenship
After looking at more pics of the old style vs new, it is clear the old style directed the oil to the bushing. The new style allows oil to get to the bushing but it does not direct it there. The old style also looks like it would fight deflection better with the two oil channels vs the big gap of the new style.
That's what I thought also when I compared the two. Seems the old style would give better oiling to the bushing. I know it was advised the new design gives the same volume of oil but they don't seem to direct the oil there which could cause them not to get oil properly. The new style would not get oil if the bushing was pressed to far, but the old style would seem to make a difference.
Old 07-17-2016, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 427
That looks good! I have one set I installed at the shop right now still in the car, I think I might pull a few and see what they look like. I also would appreciate seat and open spring pressure numbers on these if you can as that might help define what we see.

Kurt
Just plain ol btr 660 springs, with a .050 shim intake and .010 exhaust.
Old 07-18-2016, 01:15 AM
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it's a great kit hands down
Old 07-18-2016, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by brobinson216
Root cause has been determined and will be released in a few days.
And here I thought Vin Diesel was the Last Witch Hunter?
Old 07-18-2016, 07:01 AM
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Galling typically happens from dry start, that could happen on install or if something sits long periods. They should still get oil with either design, but I think the first design interfered with stock bolts. Even sinking the bushings won't cut oil flow as the flat extends under the bolt.

Kurt
Originally Posted by jblankenship
Here's another thought, because to be honest these look starved for oil just like spun bearings? How is the cars oil pressure? Are restricted push rods being used? Also, even with the oiling flats, if the bushing were sunk to deep, would oil get to the bushing?
Old 07-18-2016, 10:58 AM
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fyi theres a group purchase going on right now for this kit. im in! anyone know where i could pick up a set of ls1 rockers so i can keep my stockers? thx
Old 07-18-2016, 11:04 AM
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I don't see why machining the top flat for the bolt necessitated changing the oil channel for the bushing. I can see where it made the machining process easier for the whole trunion shaft, but not necessary. I wish I had bought some before they changed the design. Now I think I'll just keep my stock ones. Seems to me that as long as the stock ones stay intact and don't spill their bearings there is nothing wrong with them.
Old 07-18-2016, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mOtOrHeAd MiKe
And here I thought Vin Diesel was the Last Witch Hunter?
Almost
Old 07-18-2016, 12:10 PM
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...so is this 'As the trunions turn..." the latest soap opera?
Old 07-18-2016, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
I don't see why machining the top flat for the bolt necessitated changing the oil channel for the bushing. I can see where it made the machining process easier for the whole trunion shaft, but not necessary. I wish I had bought some before they changed the design. Now I think I'll just keep my stock ones. Seems to me that as long as the stock ones stay intact and don't spill their bearings there is nothing wrong with them.
It is one complaint so far. I wouldn't go so far as to write off the entire design.
Old 07-18-2016, 01:27 PM
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I'd like to see pics of others with no problems after running the second design. I believe so far all the other no problem after running pics have been of the first design.
Old 07-18-2016, 02:17 PM
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The stock ones are great if your lift does not exceed the travel of the cap. The bearings normally come out when run into valve toss. I have a set on my truck that are at 170,000 miles, but its had valve springs 3 times.

Kurt
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
I don't see why machining the top flat for the bolt necessitated changing the oil channel for the bushing. I can see where it made the machining process easier for the whole trunion shaft, but not necessary. I wish I had bought some before they changed the design. Now I think I'll just keep my stock ones. Seems to me that as long as the stock ones stay intact and don't spill their bearings there is nothing wrong with them.
Old 07-18-2016, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 427
The stock ones are great if your lift does not exceed the travel of the cap. The bearings normally come out when run into valve toss. I have a set on my truck that are at 170,000 miles, but its had valve springs 3 times.

Kurt
Exactly. If you exceed the design limitations of the stock trunnions you have to make a choice. As we have seen the aftermarket bearing upgrades have had questionable results, bushings are the new new and offer their own compromises (or not). The jury is still out on the bearing vs. bushing debate - regardless if it moves, it is a wear part. Period.

I do find humour in anyone seeking to find fault in a budget part when it fails, especially when they lay claim to enough "expertise" to quote very specific material specs, principles, and assembly tolerances. I know that if I had access to those resources I wouldn't be messing around with modified stock junk, and then get upset when it doesn't perform up to my expectations. But, that is just me.
Old 07-18-2016, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
I don't see why machining the top flat for the bolt necessitated changing the oil channel for the bushing. I can see where it made the machining process easier for the whole trunion shaft, but not necessary. I wish I had bought some before they changed the design. Now I think I'll just keep my stock ones. Seems to me that as long as the stock ones stay intact and don't spill their bearings there is nothing wrong with them.
I've been watching this from the sideline but have installed about 20 sets of these, new and old. On the few factory bolts that did interfere with #1 design, the bolt head was rather dragging in there but did fit if you pushed it. If the hole were .010" larger ID, no problem. Out of a box full of factory bolts, it was really easy for me to grab a set of 16 that fit just fine. Maybe 1 of 8 was a tight fit and still would have worked. I only worried that with the (rare in my experience)tight-fitting bolts you might not get an accurate torque reading.

I say this as I agree that it does not seem that the oiling design had to change to make the bolts work.

I've got a beater 4.8(236K miles and literally runs GREAT with 40PSI+ hot idle) truck now and a set each of the new bush, old bush, Comp roller, Harland Sharp roller and I am pulling a handful from each. I'll install these on the truck this weekend-ish and I'll watch them grow old with the truck and planned upgrades, each set rocking two cylinders.


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