nickb123

Hello, Last summer I purchased a 2001 WS6 6 speed, with 90K, mostly stock and now Im looking at doing a head and cam swap this winter while its hibernating. This will be the first time I have taken on this kind of work (I did disassemble and reassemble a '13 5.3 at school though) and Im going to be needing advice along the way. When I bought the car the seller included a set of LS6 heads and this cam kit: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-2796-gm...5-112-lsa.aspx
All Im looking to do with the car is daily drive it in the summer, so don't have any plans of taking it to the track (although I may). So I want to be as reliable and trouble free as it is stock. I've done some research and I should be satisfied with those heads and cam, right?
I made a list of parts for this swap;
-LS7 lifters
-LS2 lifter buckets
-LS2 timing chain
-Push rods? maybe?
-Timing cover gasket and crank seal
-Oil pump (Not sure what one to go with)
-Head gaskets and bolts (GM MLS or ?)
-Intake and valve cover gaskets
-NGK tr555 pugs with MSD wires
-New water pump and thermostat (stock temp?)
-Poly motor mounts
-Headers (SE or TSP 1 7/8)
-Catted y pipe (TSP?)
-New O2 and knock sensors.
Is there any thing I should change or add to that list? And advice on those parts I don't know what to go with.
Now on the head gaskets, I've read GM MLS gaskets would give the best seal but are a little thicker than aftermarket options. What would I loose if I did not go with thinner gaskets? If its just a few HP then Id go for the GM gaskets for piece of mind because I don't want to re-due this in the future.
On the push rods, Id like to replace them but don't know what brand or length to get. Is there a recommended push rod to use with those heads and cam?

Sorry for making this so long, I have a lot of questions and still have more but figured I should stop there for now! Thanks in advance!

xdanny510x

Ported ls6 pump... btw why that cam? Theres better suited cams that retain drivability... for a cam and oushrods i would either hit up tsp or martin smallwood or pat g.. or any other vendors.. seems u are on the right track tho

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

The pushrods you will save for last. I'm sure the guys who designed the cam could give you a predetermined length if you want to go that route but the "better" way to do it is wait until you have the heads back on and you get a pushrod length checking tool from Summit or wherever and use that to determine the pushrod length at the end with the proper preload.

The gasket thickness that you are talking about above has to do with quench space. Here's an article on it. Some guys say you get quite a bit more hp but all your tolerances are tighter so you have to be more exact when putting everything together. this shows a way to actually measure your true deck height and calculate the size gasket you need. I wrote up how to do it in my build thread, which is in my signature, when I learned how to do it.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...earance-guide/

I'd think about adding an ATI super damper while you're upgrading everything. It will help relieve stress on the crank.

Nick.H

Don't buy a GM hotcam....

Mappinsj

Vindicator

nickb123

Why that cam? Because it was included with the car when I bought it, thats the only reason I have it so I figured Id use it. Im actually debating on buying a kit like this... https://www.texas-speed.com/p-1158-t...e-springs.aspx But can decide if its worth the hassle of buying that and trying to sell the kit I have.

nickb123

For the push rods Im probably will buy the length checker so know it is right.
As far as quench... could I have the heads milled down say .010 and use stock GM MLS gaskets? That would put it close to .035 I think. That damper is close to $500 so I think Ill skip it for now.

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

You could have the heads milled to increase compression and that would tighten quench space but I would still check true deck height and calculate gasket thickness from there. Just takes a little extra time and a couple inexpensive tools.

I just suggested damper because your bottom end has 90k on it. If you're doing heads and cam I assume you're going to beat on it a little so a damper would help you to protect your investment. Some guys say they get a few hp out of it but it's more for protection. I'm sure some other members will chime in here.

Looks like it will be a fun build for sure. I don't know much about cams but a lot of guys on here do. You should probably just put that cam up for sale on tech here and see if anyone wants it. Then you could talk to one of the shops and have someone guide you with your selection. Any of the above mentioned are good. I just used Tony Mamo from Mamo Motorsports for all my top end stuff. You could also call Texas Speed and ask them specifically what the setup you have is for also and decide if you want to keep it. They have alway been cool when I have called them.

Hope some of this info helps

Aaron

nickb123

Yeah Id probably buy that damper if I get more serious with the car or if the factory one needs to be replaced for any reason, but for now it should be fine I hope.

Ill have to contact some shops and see what cam they recommend but if anyone on here could chime in that would be very helpful. Just looking for something with great drivability that is reliable and makes decent power. I don't want anything crazy.

nickb123

After taking to TSP and a lot of googling I decided to go with the new 228R cam. Sounds like it will be a good daily driver cam that makes good power.
They also recommended dual valve springs, but Im not sure what specific springs to get. They have a couple of kits on sale right now, what kit would be the best to go with the 228R? And is there any note worthy down sides of dual springs?
What oil plump should I run? I have it narrowed down between the ported LS6 pump or Melling high pressure pump. Is the LS6 ported pump worth $70 more over Melling?

Thanks

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

When I was ordering my top end I talked to my builder about pumps. I decided to go with a melling pump and have it ported because I have a stroker setup. He said the melling high pressure wasn't necessary for stock bottom end because the clearances are so tight so the extra pressure doesn't matter. But in his opinion either pump you go with should be ported. If you do a google search there are quite a few threads on tech here that compare the two also. I'm sure there are other opinions.

FWIW I ran just a plain non ported melling pump for a season and had zero oil pressure issues so I'm sure you could get away without it also. Since I had mine apart for winter and already had the melling pump I just decided to port it too.

Hope that helps. Sounds like a good cam choice for your build. They should have a recommendation for springs for that cam also I would think. I've used Tony Mamo, Mamo Motorsports, for most of my recent stuff and he is a great guy. Give him a call I'm sure he'd answer a ton of questions for you.

nickb123

Ok, I think I got pretty much all the parts figured out. Here is my new list:
-Used 243 Heads
-New TSP 228R cam
-BTR .660" platinum dual springs
-TSP pushrods after checking length
-Tick ported LS6 oil pump
-LS2 chain
-LS2 lifter trays
-LS7 lifters
-GM MLS head gaskets
-GM head bolts
-ARP crank bolt
-MSD wires and TR-55 plugs
-Gates water pump
-ACdelco Stock temp thermostat
-all associated gaskets
-Poly engine mounts
-TSP 1 7/8" headers with catted y pipe
-GM exhaust manifold bolts
-Magnaflow cat back (or new TSP when it comes out)
-BTR Trunion upgrade kit
-Both drive belts
-oil, coolant and oil filter

All of that, plus a tune and machine shop changes for the heads puts me around $3,500, which is a lot to me but, hopefully it will be worth it.

Is there anything I should change or add to that list? Mind the fact that I don't want to spend anymore money than what it is at now.

I do still have some unanswered questions. I plan on having the stock 243 heads milled .010-.015". Is this too much, too little or just right for my set up?
I plan is to buy a stock ACdelco replacement thermostat. Would there be any reason to get a $20 more expensive, 7 cooler degree thermostat?

Thanks for the replies