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Head Bolt and Main Bolt Lubrication Issue

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Old 02-06-2016, 09:04 PM
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Default Head Bolt and Main Bolt Lubrication Issue

Hey everyone,

I'm rebuilding my LS1 and have 2 issues I need to resolve.

1. When replacing the head bolts with stock torque-to-yield bolts, should I put the new bolts in dry, or should I put oil or ARP lube on them? The factory service manual doesn't say.

2. When I assembled the bottom end, I used ARP lube on the main cap torque-to-angle bolts, and then torqued and angled them to the factory specs. Is this okay, or should I have used oil?

Thanks in advance for any input!
Old 02-06-2016, 09:14 PM
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I am reading out of the GM training school literature that I received while going through the
class and it says the M8 bolts at the top get a 0.20 bead of thread locking compound, and the
M11 bolts do not get anything, just clean threads.
Old 02-06-2016, 10:42 PM
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Great, thanks! Does it say anything about the crankshaft main bolts?
Old 02-06-2016, 11:26 PM
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nothing, again just clean threads
Old 02-07-2016, 12:59 AM
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I would really invest in some ARP headbolts honestly. Since your going through the trouble anyways.
Old 02-07-2016, 03:47 AM
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Chase the threads & I always just give them a drop of oil.
Old 02-08-2016, 10:24 PM
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So, I put the head bolts in dry and followed the service manual tightening procedure.

As for the factory main bolts, I called ARP and the guy I spoke to suggested that they are over torqued since I put ARP thread lube on factory bolts. I've decided to remove half of the bolts at a time, clean out the threaded holes with brake cleaner, and reinstall them either dry or with a drop of 30W oil.
Old 02-09-2016, 06:29 AM
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Because they are torque to yield and employ a specific rotation to establish preload, you are not measuring torque. When measuring torque, friction is the biggest variable. For that reason, you can install them per the manual.
Old 02-09-2016, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 451stroker
I've decided to remove half of the bolts at a time, clean out the threaded holes with brake cleaner, and reinstall them either dry or with a drop of 30W oil.
As stock bolts are torque to yield, once you install them, they stretch. This is permanent. You can NOT remove them and re-install them again.

Stock bolts come with the correct thread locker on them. Adding a drop of oil or anything is a no-no.

Also, especially if the block is aluminum, the thread holes must be completely dry. If you do this wrong, you can crack the block.

When it comes to aftermarket fasteners, follow the maker's instructions.

Of course, the best way to hold heads on any motor is with studs. As I don't care for the torque to yield way of doing it, I stud everything.
Old 02-09-2016, 08:57 PM
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From what I've read, the head bolts are torque-to-yield and can only be used once. But, the crank bolts are torque-to-angle and can be reused.
Old 02-10-2016, 06:50 AM
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What crank bolt? If you mean the one that holds the harmonic damper in place (pulley) then that bolt cannot be re-used. In general terms, TTY bolts are a one use only and should not be re-used.
Old 02-10-2016, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
What crank bolt? If you mean the one that holds the harmonic damper in place (pulley) then that bolt cannot be re-used. In general terms, TTY bolts are a one use only and should not be re-used.
I was referring to the main cap bolts.
Old 02-10-2016, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 451stroker
From what I've read, the head bolts are torque-to-yield and can only be used once. But, the crank bolts are torque-to-angle and can be reused.
Yeah, I think you caught me generalizing the bolts these engines come with.

I'd still rather use better made aftermarket fasteners.



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