Head Bolt and Main Bolt Lubrication Issue
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 59
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Head Bolt and Main Bolt Lubrication Issue Hey everyone,
I'm rebuilding my LS1 and have 2 issues I need to resolve.
1. When replacing the head bolts with stock torque-to-yield bolts, should I put the new bolts in dry, or should I put oil or ARP lube on them? The factory service manual doesn't say.
2. When I assembled the bottom end, I used ARP lube on the main cap torque-to-angle bolts, and then torqued and angled them to the factory specs. Is this okay, or should I have used oil?
Thanks in advance for any input!
I'm rebuilding my LS1 and have 2 issues I need to resolve.
1. When replacing the head bolts with stock torque-to-yield bolts, should I put the new bolts in dry, or should I put oil or ARP lube on them? The factory service manual doesn't say.
2. When I assembled the bottom end, I used ARP lube on the main cap torque-to-angle bolts, and then torqued and angled them to the factory specs. Is this okay, or should I have used oil?
Thanks in advance for any input!
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 985
Likes: 12
I am reading out of the GM training school literature that I received while going through the
class and it says the M8 bolts at the top get a 0.20 bead of thread locking compound, and the
M11 bolts do not get anything, just clean threads.
class and it says the M8 bolts at the top get a 0.20 bead of thread locking compound, and the
M11 bolts do not get anything, just clean threads.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
So, I put the head bolts in dry and followed the service manual tightening procedure.
As for the factory main bolts, I called ARP and the guy I spoke to suggested that they are over torqued since I put ARP thread lube on factory bolts. I've decided to remove half of the bolts at a time, clean out the threaded holes with brake cleaner, and reinstall them either dry or with a drop of 30W oil.
As for the factory main bolts, I called ARP and the guy I spoke to suggested that they are over torqued since I put ARP thread lube on factory bolts. I've decided to remove half of the bolts at a time, clean out the threaded holes with brake cleaner, and reinstall them either dry or with a drop of 30W oil.
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Because they are torque to yield and employ a specific rotation to establish preload, you are not measuring torque. When measuring torque, friction is the biggest variable. For that reason, you can install them per the manual.
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Stock bolts come with the correct thread locker on them. Adding a drop of oil or anything is a no-no.
Also, especially if the block is aluminum, the thread holes must be completely dry. If you do this wrong, you can crack the block.
When it comes to aftermarket fasteners, follow the maker's instructions.
Of course, the best way to hold heads on any motor is with studs. As I don't care for the torque to yield way of doing it, I stud everything.
What crank bolt? If you mean the one that holds the harmonic damper in place (pulley) then that bolt cannot be re-used. In general terms, TTY bolts are a one use only and should not be re-used.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
I'd still rather use better made aftermarket fasteners.