LS1 main caps directional? Help needed!
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Getting ready to start engine assembly and noticed the machine shop has 2 of my main caps in "backward" when they line honed my mains. It obviously bolted up fine for them to do this but I am not sure of the consequences.
Any thoughts or concerns? Thanks!
Any thoughts or concerns? Thanks!
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I did not mention that the caps are in their respective order, ie 1-5 are where they belong. Just #2 and #4 are backward. You can definitely see where the cap bearing alignment groove is "matched" to the block one. Cantdrv65 may be right, this could cause the bearings to spin. Not like I need to make this easier since spun bearings killed the donor motor in the first place.
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the middle caps can flipped, they are machined with bearing tang grooves on both sides of the cap, as long as the block and cap cleaned at the parting line you should be fine.
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Only #1 and #5 are dual tang...Take it back for sure!!if the centers are flipped it's no good man..the side bolts wouldnt line up correctly if the center caps where flipped (they might thread..but not seated in the register properly)..make them re-do it. Good luck...BTW...when all the mains go back in..the bearing tangs on the cap must be on the oposite sides of the block tangs for proper alignment and bearing crush.
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Originally Posted by 10secondZ
Only #1 and #5 are dual tang...Take it back for sure!!if the centers are flipped it's no good man..the side bolts wouldnt line up correctly if the center caps where flipped (they might thread..but not seated in the register properly)..make them re-do it. Good luck...BTW...when all the mains go back in..the bearing tangs on the cap must be on the oposite sides of the block tangs for proper alignment and bearing crush.
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Thanks for all the input, folks! Update, I had the machinist come over to look at the block. In reality, they DID line hone with the caps in the proper orientation. When they vatted and washed the block they removed the caps. When I picked it up they had just put the caps on without torquing or centering. I freaked prematurely but hey, I'm a man right?!?
Last, I installed the crank yesterday and checked clearances. Nothing over 0.0017" so things are looking good! Hope to light it up by Monday. Say a prayer and keep your fingers crossed for me.
Last, I installed the crank yesterday and checked clearances. Nothing over 0.0017" so things are looking good! Hope to light it up by Monday. Say a prayer and keep your fingers crossed for me.
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Originally Posted by ktmrider
Thanks for all the input, folks! Update, I had the machinist come over to look at the block. In reality, they DID line hone with the caps in the proper orientation. When they vatted and washed the block they removed the caps. When I picked it up they had just put the caps on without torquing or centering. I freaked prematurely but hey, I'm a man right?!?
Last, I installed the crank yesterday and checked clearances. Nothing over 0.0017" so things are looking good! Hope to light it up by Monday. Say a prayer and keep your fingers crossed for me.
Last, I installed the crank yesterday and checked clearances. Nothing over 0.0017" so things are looking good! Hope to light it up by Monday. Say a prayer and keep your fingers crossed for me.
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Did they label the caps so that you know which ones go to which positions?
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I have the same problem I don't know how #2 #3 #4 caps go. Are the barring locks suppose to line up or they the opposite of each other? I know #1 and #5 caps have to go inward so the timing cover and rear main seal cover can be bolted on. But just can't figure out how the middle three go. Can any one help?
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Why would you mark main caps? They are in order from the factory and you guessed it, they are numbered and all numbers facing right side up. You literally cannot put them in incorrectly unless you aren't paying attention.
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I have the same problem I don't know how #2 #3 #4 caps go. Are the barring locks suppose to line up or they the opposite of each other? I know #1 and #5 caps have to go inward so the timing cover and rear main seal cover can be bolted on. But just can't figure out how the middle three go. Can any one help?
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One thing that I learned over the years building engines, is that when you have "unmarked" caps rods, or mains, look at the grinding/sanding marks on the inside bearing area! If they dont match 100% then you need to switch them up.
If you had that engine line bored, there will be distinguishing marks on each cap. You have to look close but its there. No boring bar of any type scores the same from one end to another.
If you had that engine line bored, there will be distinguishing marks on each cap. You have to look close but its there. No boring bar of any type scores the same from one end to another.
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