nskyline34

iTrader: (2)

Was a Dynojet - well aware of the differences in crushing dreams. Lol I don't know if a mustang Dyno close to me anymore. Only one I did know moved 2 years ago.

nskyline34

iTrader: (2)

Just picked the car up - power is stupid fun but drivability is not even drivable - it's a beautiful sunny day and I'm choosing to trailer it home.

Throws P1515 code all the time

Going to sell the NW and 100mm MAF and go back to OE MAF and 2006-2007 LS7 TB. That should help the drivability a lot. The lope/surge sucks a little but it's like the computer can't figure out the TB

North*power

iTrader: (1)

Really sounds like you need a better tuner... Are you using a Ls7 cartridge style MAF without a screen? Installing a screen will help direct the turbulent air and make it way easier to tune. Also the MAF should be in a place where the airflow is directly through it and not just after a bend. They are very sensitive sensors. I'd consider going Speed Density before ditching your NW throttle body...

loser98

iTrader: (3)

I agree, tune is a huge thing when it comes to drivability. With a big camshaft you almost NEED to tune it on the street. Personally I wouldn't start selling parts. NW throttle body is a nice peice and a lot of people run them with no problems.

Power wise, your headers and catted x-pipe is hurting you no doubt about it.

I daily drive (in the summer) a 408 with a 248/254 and have no problems. My buddy's trans am with a 239/242 in a bolt-on ls1 drives very well for the size of the cam.

Surging is expected with a big camshaft and little tuning. Tune what you have before throwing a bunch of money at the car and still have to re-tune it anyway.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Agreed. The tune makes everything. A poor tune can make even a baby sized cam suck to drive. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Guys,

Andy texted me this copy of the dyno sheet earlier today....its the only one he had currently.

Just thought I would post it up. He is trying to get some additional info from the shop that ran the car

Obviously the 425 TQ was a spike in the dyno....looks like this run was in the 390's on TQ

Catch you guys later

-Tony

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't ditch the 100mm MAF. My car runs better with it.

Big cams with lots of overlap need some time on the street. Or a lot of time. Get a better tuner.

Or hell, get HPTuners and tune it yourself. I can help. So can Lorentz @ LSX Power Tuning. He's a good guy and can help with remote tuning if you aren't near Houston.

SoFla01SSLookinstok

To touch 487hp ,from that graph, the tq would have to stop dropping at 6500 & carry flat to around 7100.

Even with those #'s, that curve, that's pretty darn good. 500rwhp 346 no joke.

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

Great project! Nice read. I'll be following this one for results for sure. Definitely some really good ideas in this thread to push you over the top so I wouldn't be disappointed. Just in the tune I bet you could get more out of it. Took me a couple trips to the tuner to get my car where it should be. Tuning and then driving and tuning again. Also, if you did a lot of pulls the car starts to get hot and then will dyno less hp as well, so there are a lot of variables in measurement. I saw this the first time I went. I got 17rwhp opening my cutout and that was just through a muffler, no cats so you'll probably do it with just exhaust modification.

Good luck!

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

Nick williams is a great piece..with that said, i had to drill the **** out of one to get my iac valve in check and my drivability back. Dont drill blind. You need a scanner to watch your iac counts.

Simply put, if its impossible for your motor to suck enough air in at idle, it will never idle correct.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I didn't see anything about the actual car or trans/rear gear this engine (finally told us an LS6 bottom end) is in/mated with. How can people guess what's reasonable without knowing the ballpark drivetrain losses? If it's a factory LS6, it's only a C5 Z06 or gen 1 CTS-V (yes, most of you know that). Considering the target HP, I have to assume it's a T56 but confirmation would be nice. I'm guessing it's a transplant into an f-body but I see no confirmation of that. Did I miss something? From what I am seeing, and having to guess a bit on, looks like this car needs 1 7/8 headers and a tuner that knows what he's doing to see the magic number. To let this car leave the shop undriveable speaks volumes about both the ethics and tuning skill...assuming we're being told everything. Assuming the cam specs are correct and this is a donkey dick cam, that would amplify the need for a real tuner...288/291 .605/.610 111LSA cam is an enormous cam for a 5.7. Typo? Still need to know the car and driveline, drivetrain losses could be the difference here too in missing the mark.

nskyline34

iTrader: (2)

Thanks everyone for the kind words, constructive critisizm, and all the great help/opinions/ideas of how to improve. This is exactly what I was hoping for - good honest feedback I can learn from.

Thanks for posting that up Tony! I emailed Tony an updated graph yesterday. The car made 481.6hp and 428ft-lb. The spike you see on that graph was from the first hit he made. The last one shows 400+ ft-lb from about 4350 to 6100 rpm and is over 350ft-lb from about 2700 to rev-limit.

I know its a lot of cam stuffed into a small pkg - but I wanted to prove a point. I'm 13hp away (with correction factor) to proving 500 on a average budget can be done.

This is the next plan - I'm buying HPTuners once my acct recovers and learning this stuff for myself. Also want to be proficient at it for when I build a 383 or 388.

Borla stinger system right now - but I'm going to add cutouts to it and hopefully I have a similar gain! lol

I'm going to put it AFTER the axle though, so idk if I will pickup as much as you did. There will still be a lot of pipe to flow through!

Mad I didnt get 1-7/8 headers lol

You're correct - Car is a 2003 C5Z - 6 speed car - BONE stock drive train other that clutch and motor mounts - diff/gears/trans etc all 18,900mi stock Chevy.

LS6 actually stayed in the car for the build - if I pull a motor usually I end up spending 2x more than I should, so I left it in the car.

Cam specs are as follows: 288/291 advertised duration and .629/.615 on a 111LSA. (I didn’t remember correct before) - **NOTE** advertised duration is NOT at .050” so the .050” duration is less. – don’t have the cam card handy

The idle issue I think is due to an LS3 TB on a C5Z. Lots of threads on this and how its a no-no and doesnt work. I'm going to try the new LS2/LS7 I ordered. Hopefully this works. If not I will run whichever setup is better and deal with it after the race.

nskyline34

iTrader: (2)

Latest (final pull - same day just an hour or two later in the day)

gagliano7

Here is the cam specs he put on a earlier post. 236/241 .605 .611 111 lsa

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

That makes perfect sense on the cam specs and super glad to have all the info. The IRS will eat a bit more power than an f-bod for a dyno number. Well known locals using a dynojet figure about 15% loss on t56 f-bods and 17-18% on C5s...YMMV. Cam should be tuneable but getting a good tuner will be paramount. Not a ton of improvement to be had on your exhaust except the headers. Sort your TB, upgrade to the big tube headers, re-tune and you should be there...give or take. EWP for extra insurance...keep us posted!

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

Looks like you're 19hp away from 500, not 12??

nskyline34

iTrader: (2)

Good to know that the IRS will eat a little more. I was just doing math with 15%.

Cam is not the issue - the LS3 TB is the gremlin. Cam is big yes, but not stupid by any stretch.

Bigger headers will be later this year - no time soon as that's a pretty spendy endeavor and a PITA to swap since I have the lower motor mounts. (have to jack up motor a little)

EWP is later this year - want to see how it does on the track with OE pump

TB is in the mail and the day after it arrives it will be headed down to the shop to get tuned. Tired of hemorrhaging $ on tuning so I will be buying/learning HPT very very soon...

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Just clarifying - I meant the IAC port on the NW is already drilled out to 3/8". The blade came undrilled. JimmieBlue posted up some stuff on aftermarket TB's that have narrow IAC ports, so they don't flow, but they do much better after you drill out the IAC ports.

Hope that makes sense

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

is it an electronic or cable throttle body? by cabled blade had a factory hole that I drilled out for more air at idle.

juniorssrollin

iTrader: (1)

This is good to see, I'm doing a similar build with 243 Lloyd Elliot 3 heads, Tick SNS 3 cam, fast 102, fast 92 TB, 100 MM MAF, 36 lb injectors, Johnson 2116 lifters and am hoping to get around your numbers in a F body. Think I'll be ditching the pacesetters soon.