Are these cylinder walls glazed?
#1
Are these cylinder walls glazed?
I purchased a junkyard LQ9, and just pulled the pan to check the internals. I'm not experienced with this at all but I know the cylinder walls should show a crosshatch pattern. They do below the piston ring contact area but above that, only slightly. Can I get your opinions on whether the cylinders should be honed? If so I'll probably use a dingleberry hone.
Plans for the engine are to not remove the heads at this time -- to get the wiring and programming, sensors etc. straight so I can drive it and then figure out what to do with it; it'll be NA and I'm cheap so I'll probably stick with stock heads too.
Plans for the engine are to not remove the heads at this time -- to get the wiring and programming, sensors etc. straight so I can drive it and then figure out what to do with it; it'll be NA and I'm cheap so I'll probably stick with stock heads too.
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (15)
I purchased a junkyard LQ9, and just pulled the pan to check the internals. I'm not experienced with this at all but I know the cylinder walls should show a crosshatch pattern. They do below the piston ring contact area but above that, only slightly. Can I get your opinions on whether the cylinders should be honed? If so I'll probably use a dingleberry hone.
Plans for the engine are to not remove the heads at this time -- to get the wiring and programming, sensors etc. straight so I can drive it and then figure out what to do with it; it'll be NA and I'm cheap so I'll probably stick with stock heads too.
Plans for the engine are to not remove the heads at this time -- to get the wiring and programming, sensors etc. straight so I can drive it and then figure out what to do with it; it'll be NA and I'm cheap so I'll probably stick with stock heads too.
Once an engine has even a few miles on it, the cylinder area that gets ring contact is not going to look like the undisturbed honed area. In my book for a budget build, if you can see a little cross hatch and you trust the history of the engine, go for it. If the history is sketchy and you want confidence, pull the heads and have a better look. If on a tight budget, you can use cheaper graphite gaskets and standard replacement bolts. There's a lot of cylinder you can't see from the bottom.
#3
Any info on mileage or running condition before purchase? Compression test? Based on the very little bit I can see, I would run that engine if the rest looked similar.
Once an engine has even a few miles on it, the cylinder area that gets ring contact is not going to look like the undisturbed honed area. In my book for a budget build, if you can see a little cross hatch and you trust the history of the engine, go for it. If the history is sketchy and you want confidence, pull the heads and have a better look. If on a tight budget, you can use cheaper graphite gaskets and standard replacement bolts. There's a lot of cylinder you can't see from the bottom.
Once an engine has even a few miles on it, the cylinder area that gets ring contact is not going to look like the undisturbed honed area. In my book for a budget build, if you can see a little cross hatch and you trust the history of the engine, go for it. If the history is sketchy and you want confidence, pull the heads and have a better look. If on a tight budget, you can use cheaper graphite gaskets and standard replacement bolts. There's a lot of cylinder you can't see from the bottom.
I really don't want to have to scrape and clean a graphite gasket more than once so if I pull the heads it's going to have some consequences on my wallet For example, if I pull them I'll probably want to get MLS gaskets. Then if I'm doing that, I might just figure why not get a whole gasket set to redo the entire engine. Of course with the heads off I might as well drop in some ebay studs and that's another $90... and what if I decide I need to have the heads or block machined!
I guess what I'm saying is that if I can run the engine as it is now, I'd rather defer the cost until later -- not only because I'm cheap but also because I don't really know enough about the LS platform yet to not throw money away on suboptimal stuff only to have to redo it later. To be honest, I don't know my end goals and probably won't until I get the engine in my truck and get a seat-of-the-pants feel for how much more power I want.
On the other hand, given that the engine is not super clean, and I don't trust it's actual history I *am* tempted to pull the heads to inspect and clean the carbon off, maybe lap the valves.
Last edited by xEtherealx; 03-17-2016 at 11:13 AM.
#7
I do think I'll run it though
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#12
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Plenty of technicians across the country run 1 quart of ATF through a car with noisy lifters. Drive it gently for a short time and drain the oil when it's hot.
Would I do it in anything I cared about? Absolutely not. You run the chance of clogging the pickup screen too.
#15
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
I should state this motor has a 6 month warranty so if it starts to knock, I'm not out any money.
I have ran about 50% ATF in the oil in a demo derby car that had a damaged oil cooler though lol.
#16
TECH Senior Member
I have a tub of ATF brake cleaner mixture for cleaning small components (soaking lifters for a few days), it works wonders, disolves crusty deposits, lubricates, protects against rust.
#19
11 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
The compression is within tolerance. Its good for another 100 thousand. That's exactly what the walls are supposed to look like too. I wouldn't try and clean it. It looks just like my ls1 (115,000) after I pulled it for the new ls2. It ran great! Got to find a jeep for that thing somewhere.