Ok the car is finally done and a street tune is in. Keep in mind the tuner has set the rev limiter to 4500 RPM until the dyno session which looks like it will be Friday night. My first impression? Lets just say it scared the hell out of me hitting the rev limiter within seconds of taking off and I swear I wasn't even full throttle. I have had a smile on my face since yesterday and I don't see it going away anytime soon. My tires just explode on takeoff so now I have to spend more money on new tires ugh. At this point I haven't even begun to experience what this setup is capable of and I can't wait to find out. I have to thank all the forum guys that have talked about there builds and given us so much good info that guys like me knew who to call for my setup. Thank you Tony Mamo for all of your help and patience thru this build. Tony's package is insane and very drivable which is the best part about it. No doubt you know your LS engines and I now know why you have so many happy customers. I also have to give thanks to Anthony Manna who did the build....He is all over LS1 Tech. He has the fastest LSX in the country; a 98 Camaro. I will be giving out the dyno results hopefully Friday night or Saturday morning. Just a couple of pics to show you the engine which turned out great. Also I apologize for the late response. Didn't get home until late.

 

Looks awesome! I really want a C5/C6...

Are those Holley valve covers? What coils? I eventually want to get nicer valve covers with LS3 style coils.

And I feel you on the traction issue. It's really hard to not bounce off the rev limiter in first gear. I think you have more room than I do for a wider tire... Hell, my 275's rub...

 

Looks real good. If it feels strong shifting at 4500 it's going to be ridiculous to 7k! Can't wait to see Dyno results and power/torque curves

Hey 5L. I have 315s on both my trans ams with no fitment problems. I removed the bump stops and used ZR1 replica 17"X11"wheels with 1/2" wheel spacers.

And I just had a set of NT05r tires and they worked really good. Still easy to spin with big power but way more controlled and when they're warmed up they hook fairly well even on the street. I haven't tried many others though. I usually run Nittos or MT ET streets bias ply but I'm not a fan of those on the street.

 

+1 on valve cover info.

I see a ribbed baffle in front of your tb...someone needs to visit intakehoses.com

 

Small steps small steps)) Yes my intake tubing is horrible and I will visit that site ASAP!!! As for the valve covers let me explain. Yes they are Holley aluminum raised covers to accept aftermarket valve train. They do not accept the stock LS1 coils because the mounting holes are not as far apart as the LS2 LS3 ect. I used the round LS2 coils but the square ones you can use also. Here is the problem. The LS1 coil harness has a different connector then the LS2....... so luckily I have an LS2 coil setup on my blown C4 and just for the hell of it I unplugged the coil harness and plugged it into my 03Z harness and OMG it worked. I do have a website where you can buy the coil harness that will plug into your LS1 harness and has the connectors for the LS2 etc..... I can take pics to further explain what I did tomorrow. Hopefully this helps anyone considering purchasing the valve covers because this setup looks killer IMO.

EFICONNECTION.COM. Look under coil bracket solutions for SBC and LT1

Also FYI Tony Mamo has new coils he is selling that are compatible with the LS1 coil harness which I just found out last night so shoot him a call to have him further explain.

 

I second this entire post!!!

At 4500 you hadn't even hit peak torque yet much less peak power! When you can rev it, you'll feel it really push the car from 5k to 7k.

I used Z06 wheels 19x11 on the back with 305 rubber. 18x10 front with 275 rubber. No wheel spacers though. Just an adjustable pan hard and lots of minor adjustments. And some generous BFH modding of the wheel wells.

Quite happy with continental extreme contact rears and Michelin pilot sport fronts. On the street anyway. Much better than the hankook ventus they replaced!

 

Not sure the BFH approach works on the z06 platform.......lol

I've got the wheel setup he needs in the classified ads forsale.

In for the final results and thoughts.

 

You guys suck.. I have 18x9.5 +40mm Z06 wheels with 18/35/275 tires. 1 week after I had them mounted I cut into a back tire. I attempted to roll the fenders, and did a shitty job(even though I took my time), so now the drivers side fender is a bit wavy. I would have like to roll them more than I did, but I wasn't getting the hang of it so I gave up.

They also rub up front...

I've been kicking around the idea of widening the back wheels to 10.5 - 11, but if I do that I'm getting a watts link so I don't have to worry about rubbing.

Anyways, back to the OP's build...

What air intake are you running in front of the throttle body? With a build at this level, that can make a HUGE difference. I had some blockage on my build, and once I removed it, there was a night and day difference!

 

Lol I've got a set of brand new unmounted Billet Street lites for your fitment 17x9.5 with 7.5 BS for the FBody

 

I honestly don't know. It looks like a Mid America brand. You mean my intake as is could be holding back power? My next step is to remove the front license plate cover.. open it up and install the Halltech carbon fiber tunnel port for true cold air.

 

I remember that! Something was blocking the air inlet, and when you found it your air g/cyl went way up.

Yeah, OP, don't skimp. It gets tempting but you've got an expensive motor. Don't cheap out on stupid stuff now

 

Ugh.....good call!

And I see a 90mm TB in front of the ribbed hose.....where is the 102!?

Jason....if that TB is stock that's going to be costing you also. At a minimum a ported 90 and a non/ribbed inlet is easily 10 RWHP. A ribbed inlet hose is the worst for airflow when that motor starts turning some RPM and air speed gets higher and becomes turbulent in that ribbed hose....not the desired situation clearly.

These are the type of details that all make a difference and get glossed over all too often.

Also guys this isn't the lightweight Mamofied BC2.....its about 13 lbs heavier but still about 10 lbs lighter than stock. Its a great street clutch but it wont lay down the number like the lighter weight unit I sell will which has alot less inertia.

And for all the guys throwing big numbers around.....I need to remind you his car will be strapped to an Eddy current Mustang dyno (I'm not sure if Jason has even shared this with you guys yet)....it doesn't get much stingier as a rule of thumb.....I prepped Jason for this going in but also agreed it is a good dyno to tune on having the load cell feature.

I would be thrilled with 440-450 RWHP and 410 TQ on this set-up cause that's easily 475/425 on an inertia only DJet and this package clearly has room for a little more growth/improvement sweating the details a little more.

Naturally I have been in contact with Jason recently and I was looking forward to his feedback which certainly put a smile on my face after speaking with him yesterday. He was extremely excited about how the car felt and I told him the car is just starting to get into a gallop when it hits the rev limiter now.....LOL

I am curious about the shape of the curve more so than the actual numbers because I just know too many Mustang dyno shops with Eddy brakes and most of them are heart-breakers! Bottom line a dyno is a tuning tool.....if you really want to get a better idea of where you stack up its best to dyno on a handful of different ones and ask the shop owners what's average and whats good on their equipment before you even run. I know what looks good and what looks great on my flowbench when I flow a head....a dyno is no different and its just a barometer and mostly a tuning tool but alot of folks get to caught up in the numbers and don't spend enough time focusing on building cars that are not only fast but also fun to drive!! Read that sentence twice if your still in the planning stage of your build!!

Enjoy the Z Jason.....its a sweet ride and I cant wait till your tuner turns off the nanny rev limiter!!



Regards,
Tony

 

Sorry Tony; yes thats a 90MM TB but a friend had one and I couldn't pass on it considering the cost of the Nick Williams BUT the good news is that it is a verified V-MAX Ported TB so its better than stock at least. As for the ribbed tubing in front of my TB I've already had some comments on that so I will be correcting it ASAP. See this is why I have enjoyed these Forums because of all the good info and people willing to help you achieve your goal. On this issue if anyone has suggestions to get the most airflow into my TB please share. BREWS02WS6 already gave me a site for rubber tubing to replace the ribbed tubbing.

Onto Tony's comment about building a fast car that is fun to drive is so important. An example is my supercharged C4 600 plus dyno car. It is a beast to drive and fun for the first 45 min then your getting tired because the car surges and bucks at low RPM'S......old computer and old technology...and just takes effort to drive it. What made my stock Z06 so enjoyable is that it was fast but easy to drive and enjoyable for hours. This is why I went with Tony's package because he assured me power and drivability. He is spot on with his promise....I now have driven the car in Chicago's rush hour traffic and driven some highway miles also putting on over a hundred miles or more since the modification and yes it has incredible power...well up to 4500 rpm's or so and drives like STOCK. NO surging,bucking at low rpm's and my mom could drive this and it's not even finally tuned yet. You can have a fun powerful neck snapping ride that drives like stock if you invest in the fine details and make sure ALL OF YOUR PARTS work together. I still see so many guys on the forums installing big cams for the idle, picking heads just because someone says it flows 320 CFM and doing other things that hurt drivability. Take your time and spend the money to do it right the first time and pay attention to detail because building a car that you enjoy driving is WAY more important then how much power the dyno says you have. WE DON'T DRIVE ON DYNO'S

 

Very nice build OP. I really wish I had that cam in my setup. I'm running a 227/235 110 LSA cam and it's really not optimal for heads (exhaust port flow numbers)/exhaust setup, as it's holding me back quite a bit on the top-end. Looking forward to seeing what it puts down for you.

 

Why is my cam better? Our cam specs are so close.

 

They are actually quite different. My cam has 11 degrees of overlap, while your cam has 1 degree of overlap. The LSA of my cam is 110 and yours is 114. The valve events are very different. If I had you cam in my setup, I don't believe I'd have the issue with over-scavenging and my power band would carry further and I'd make a lot more HP up top. I recently switched from 1 3/4" headers to 1 7/8" headers and lost HP past 6,000 RPM's. I gained HP and TQ in the low and mid-range however. Your cam in my combo has better valve events for my setup. Tony can chime in more on this. Heads that flow very good on the exhaust side don't need a big split between the intake and exhaust and don't need near as much duration to make big power throughout the band.

 

Bad news. Car has a driveline issue so the dyno tune last night was cancelled. I am beyond frustrated at this point.

 

what happened? Vibrations?

 

When engaging the clutch it sounds like rocks shaking in a cup or loose bolts hitting something. Zero issue at idle when clutch is not engaged. Car was having slight vibrations off and on all week then yesterday when taking off it sounded like I described. It is def not engine related.