BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

I purchased a 1/2" thick piece of glass approximately 30" by 30". Then found online a large roll of 800 wet/dry sandpaper that carefully glued to the glass. Set it on the garage floor with lots of paper towles, water and wd40. Worked out very well.
short figure 8 patterns and it took maybe 20 minute per head.

cookseyb

I use a Norton 9" hone ( Sharpening Stone) with plenty of solvent, It will pick up the high spots and keep everything flat.

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

Umm... nope

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I do it the same way Forcefed does. He and I discussed this a couple years ago.
1” thick 7x7” alum plate. I put a handle on mine. 600 grit wet dry paper and WD40 for lube.
just a few strokes w/o adding much pressure.
Even less pressure on alum blocks and heads.

Ron

Timsims

we're all grown men here...if you have enough experience/knowledge to get to this point on a rebuild then use what method best suits you I've sanded many head/block mating surfaces with sandpaper just use good old fashion common sense...don't loiter in any specific areas for too long when sanding and feather the areas you have sanded on and check surfaces periodically with a straightedge diagonally and check for your specific engines tolerances for this value. Yes aluminum is soft but it would still take some stupid amount of sanding to dig a hole that would ruin a piece but I will say to avoid high speed die grinders with course grits on them as just one catch on a sharp edge will jerk the grinder enough to cause a substantial gouge.....some methods are better than others like I said were all experienced enough to make good decisions on these matters and as with my son I give him the best guidance and the best options or methods I leave it up to him to decide all in all rebuilding engines requires experience, knowledge, but most of all it requires patience and the use of good literature, I once knew a man who told me he didn't need to use the manual to build an engine and I said there's no way you can remember all of the tolerances, torque values, clearances etc....when I walk in a shop and see bona fide manuals being used then they already have a feather in their cap as far as I'm concerned...have a nice build