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Is it ok to sand the deck of the block to create a better seal? Machine shop cleaned and checked for any warp and it was flat. It didnt come back very clean and im wonderibg if i can clean it. And if i should what grit should i use.
400 grit wet / dry sanding paper on a sanding block with WD-40. That's what I did when I did my head swap, and it worked great. Obviously you need to cover all the critical areas from getting junk in them.
I use these little round scotch-brite pads that mount on a die grinder. They come in different grades from course to ultra fine. They also make this weird looking pad that is used for removing gaskets etc. that will not mar the surface. I have not tried it yet, but see no reason why it would not work.
Yes, you can sand the surfaces, but don't use disks. Use a long flat sanding board or similar tool. Use just a few long strait strokes so that the surface is prepped. Don't remove too much material, aluminum is a soft material and easily damaged. Disks will leave an irregular surface that will not seal well. This is particularly important for cylinder head to block mating surfaces.
Yes, you can sand the surfaces, but don't use disks. Use a long flat sanding board or similar tool. Use just a few long strait strokes so that the surface is prepped. Don't remove too much material, aluminum is a soft material and easily damaged. Disks will leave an irregular surface that will not seal well. This is particularly important for cylinder head to block mating surfaces.
Roloc discs are not sandpaper. I would not use sandpaper at all. They are scotch-brite style pads and will not distort the surface. They are made for this type of work.
I would disagree that Roloc discs "will not" distort the surface . Ultimately I believe it's the user that controls all these different methods . If You do use any kind of sanding block or a board with fine sand-paper afixed to it make sure You check and double check that whatever You use is as flat as You can possibly get it first and then be very careful as You can make the surface flatter but You could screw it up . I'm not trying to scare You just make sure You treat this procedure very carefully and You should be fine . With that said I'm not recomendfing 1 procedure or method over another but in Mt experience any kind of blade is very difficult to keep from gouging the aluminum and any kind of power tool can have similar effects not as bad maybe so personally I generally use sandpaper in the range of 400-2000 grit on aluminum.
i'd run it as is. you don't want a mirror smooth sealing surface. you need *some* roughness for the head gasket to "bite" , around 50Ra is the generally accepted number for MLS gaskets.
most of the above mentioned methods are gonna marginally improve the surface finish, but probably at the cost of flatness.
copper spray the gaskets and put it together, ATMO
i'd run it as is. you don't want a mirror smooth sealing surface. you need *some* roughness for the head gasket to "bite" , around 50Ra is the generally accepted number for MLS gaskets.
most of the above mentioned methods are gonna marginally improve the surface finish, but probably at the cost of flatness.
copper spray the gaskets and put it together, ATMO
Is it alright to do this while using high boost? Might run 18 to 27lbs of boost
A razor blade and some elbow grease is probable the best way but we used to use this style grinding disk at work on some of the really bad ones; http://www.eastwood.com/bristle-disk...rit-green.html. it's pretty soft but cleaned up great. It's very hard to gouge a surface because the little bristles are only plastic
Roloc discs are not sandpaper. I would not use sandpaper at all. They are scotch-brite style pads and will not distort the surface. They are made for this type of work.
People like you are whats wrong with getting advice from the internet. Roloc disc will **** a surface up, very quick when attached to a die grinder. Please stop talking out of your ***. OP use caution if this is the route you choose to take.
Looking at your block, I wouldn't use anything more that a little degreaser and a scotch-brite pad. There doesn't look to be anything on there worth taking the risk on anything coarser.
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Sanding mating surfaces 
