freeridesnomore

Alright a small recap of my situation.

I recently bought a 2000ss with a .020+ Lq4 block flat tops no recess.
Gen4 floating rods Ktech bolts. LS 7 lifters Ms3 Cam 113+3, tsp 1 7/8 LT TSP Rumbler exhaust ls6 intake 46 #injectors. 6speed car 4.10 gears

Car went south due to cam bolt coming loose on the way home trashed cam and lifters and looks like had a PTV clearance issue due to marks on Pistons.

Now the car was tuned very well for the ms3 cam had good manners pulled hard as hell and was a blast to drive the short time it lasted.


Here are the parts I want to go back with to build this up. any suggestions would be great.

COMP CAMS SHORT TRAVEL RACE HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTERS 15956-16


JP PERFORMANCE SINGLE ROLLER BILLET GEAR SET FOR LS1/LS2 SINGLE POLE JP5622T

CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP 17801830

PUSHROD LENGTH CHECKER 6.800"-7.800"

ARP LS1 CAM RETAINER BOLT KIT 134-1002

CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE HEAD BOLTS FOR 2004 AND NEWER LS ENGINES 17800568

Head gasket I was thinking the smaller bore 12589227 4.020 which would be the exact size of my bore so should help with compression (using 799 heads btw)

Cam was thinking of going right back with a TSP ms3 cam (open to other possible cams that would work with current tune. Wont have time for a tune for a while.

So I guess thats it Pushrods will be checked for the new lifters so I will get them last I guess.

What do you guys think of reusing the gaskets intake/exhaust front cover etc. when I took it apart nothing was stuck in place looks like it might have had 200 miles on it not one gasket had to be pulled they all fell off when I took it apart. I realize thats not normal practice but its almost as if it was ran for a short while then tore back apart. Would you buy all new gaskets?

Thanks

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I'd say this. Get a bigger bore HG. At least 4.060. Aluminum expands more than steel. At temp you'll have the HG partially sticking out into chamber

gametech

iTrader: (1)

If I were to replace lifters and pushrods anyway, I would take a serious look at a low lash solid roller setup. I would only replace gaskets that looked to be damaged. The bad news is that if a bolt came loose that quickly after the motor being assembled, I would not trust a single thing the previous owner did to it.

freeridesnomore

Are you referring to the head chamber expanding past the head gasket? I only ask because my block is iron and I wouldn't think the heads combustion chamber would expand. That being said do you still think I should use a larger head gaske t if I do I will probably go with the ls9 gasket.

freeridesnomore

I agree the block is currently at the machine shop getting checked out partially due to all the trash that might have circulated through my engine and secondly due to not trusting the rest of the build.
I wouldn't mind the solid setup if I did that I would want to go with the shaft mount rocker setup and if I were going to do that I would want to go ahead and go with a better set of heads and that's a little bit further than I'm willing to take it at this point.
Hopefully the comp short travel roller lifters will hold up well.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I would suggest going with the ls9 or ls3 HG

freeridesnomore

I found a set of LS9 gaskets for 99 bucks they are on the way.

Do you think I should stick with the MS3 cam or go with a BTR stage 4.

Also do you object to trying the comp lifters I am thinking of using?

I am about to pull the trigger soon on the parts I need soon just tough to make decisions.

Been reading this sight like crazy since I bought the car. Not a whole lot of people are using the comp lifter it seems. Mostly morel or Johnson. I wouldnt mind the Johnson but BTR has the comps for 499 hard to beat that price man. And BTR is in my home town they are building a new shop here. So I think it would be in my best interest to go with them.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

You don't have to use a shaft rocker system with a solid lifter. Yella Terra has rockers with lash adjusters for about $700, and Comp has an adjustable stud mount conversion for about $500. Short travel lifters usually have a narrow range for preload, so unless you want to dick around with shims and measuring every single pushrod, you would want an adjustable rocker anyways.

freeridesnomore

I havent got to see it for myself but the machine shop started on my motor today and found that my pistons were full of metal around the rings and had scratched the skirts real bad they recommended new pistons but it was up to me. Also said whoever put the motor together didn't balance the rotating assembly at all. So I figured I would just have them bore it .030 and go with a shelf forged piston with some valve reliefs.

So to get the motor back right, new pistons, block bored all new bearings, and resize big end of rods. Then where the pistons hit the valves all new valves and seat work for new valves.


KC, I looked into the comp kit after you mentioned it looks like a practical setup. If you wouldnt mind could you maybe talk about any tricks going this route mainly due to the 1.8 ratio or clearance issues with the valve covers. I am guessing this would affect cam selection.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

It may need spacers or aftermarket valve covers to clear the poly locks, but it won't be nearly as bad as the shaft rocker setups since it won't have an adjuster on the pushrod side. That's usually where the heads and valvecovers have to be machined to clear with the shaft mount rockers and it can be a real PITA.

As far as the cam, you're going to want to use a less aggressive lobe. TSP used to grind the MS cams on a very aggressive lobe, but they are grinding their own stuff now. They can spec you something to work, I'm sure. Patrick Guerra (PatG) is also a very good cam guy and can get you spec'd out as well.

Also, the kit they have comes with guide plates for 5/16" pushrods. If you want to use a 3/8" pushrod, they have guideplates for that too, but you may have to call and ask to have it substituted or buy it all seperately.