View Poll Results: Which cam do you think is the best match for my goals?
Advanced induction: 234/240-113 .626"
0
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Voters: 24. You may not vote on this poll
Final cam decision - vendor recommendations included - input needed
10-08-2016, 10:27 AM
#21
I don't know but it does not make much sense to me. Tony mamo made well over 450whp with a 224/228 cam and went low 11's at 124 in his Vette. Spending the money on good heads is where its at. Not many want to put the extra coin in a 4th gen these days, so you see a lot of big cam/average heads setups.
10-08-2016, 11:44 AM
#22
Yea that's awesome for a small cam.. the best I can do for heads is AI 226cc.. I feel like they are the best bang for the buck unless there is something else out there that flows as well for 1300-1400? Seems like everything else I see is over $2k with those flow numbers but maybe I'm missing something.. I listed my sns 3 in classifieds.. if it sells it sells, if not I'll roll with it.. if it does I'll probably look towards a cam motion set up in the 230 range so I can mill more.. figured the votes would damn near be dead even so far lol.. I was hoping it would be more one sided.
10-08-2016, 12:23 PM
#23
No those heads will make your power goals with ease. What I am getting at is the cams in your list above are not going to make any more power at 10.75:1 compression then a 228/232 @ 11.4:1 compression, and the smaller cam is going to drive nicer, make better mid range, and have better throttle response.
10-08-2016, 12:27 PM
#24
Ok cool, since I have 93 octane around here I shouldn't have to worry about the higher compression . Any down falls to running over 11 compression ratio? Is it harder on piston rings or anything of that nature? How much would need to be milled off of the heads to achieve that? I saw somewhere everytime you bump compression by 1 (10.1 to 11.1) you can see 3-4% overall gains.. I wonder if that is accurate
10-08-2016, 04:56 PM
#25
Good heads are where it's at....that's where all the real power is made and they are the foundation of any serious build
Every other part plays a supporting role to the heads. You could have a mismatched combo with great heads and still make good power versus a well thought out combo with average heads that would make less. If you spend the time to optimize the better heads the sky is the limit in some regard. As has been previously mentioned, 10 years ago I made 475-480 at the tire with an old school 224/228 cam and my first generation AFR 205 heads I designed in 2004....hell I did that with a ported FAST 90 mm....the 102 wasn't even out yet
Think about all the time and money you will invest in an average set-up factoring in ALL the costs, install, tune.....spending another $500 or so on really good clean sheet design aftermarket heads makes sooo much sense.....especially long term when you regret you didnt step up when you had the chance (should have a dollar for every hot rodder who felt that).
Check out my new MMS 223 heads.....can't be beat for the money (low 2K).....these things kill the AFR 205's I did back in the day btw....had I had these heads then I would have been 10 RWHP stronger at least.
Mamo Engineering and attention to detail for a few more bucks than budget heads....I spent alot of time on this product to allow that to happen
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...man-heads.html
I can also help you with a custom cam and all the rest of the package to optimize my new heads....I will help you build a killer set-up that will actually meet or exceed your goals versus the more common situation (most folks miss their targets by quite a bit).
You may have to invest a little more but you get alot more when the smoke clears....sometimes getting better "value" requires just that....spending a little more money.....in fact it's that way in most purchases you will make in your lifetime
If I can help be sure to reach out
Regards,
Tony
Every other part plays a supporting role to the heads. You could have a mismatched combo with great heads and still make good power versus a well thought out combo with average heads that would make less. If you spend the time to optimize the better heads the sky is the limit in some regard. As has been previously mentioned, 10 years ago I made 475-480 at the tire with an old school 224/228 cam and my first generation AFR 205 heads I designed in 2004....hell I did that with a ported FAST 90 mm....the 102 wasn't even out yet
Think about all the time and money you will invest in an average set-up factoring in ALL the costs, install, tune.....spending another $500 or so on really good clean sheet design aftermarket heads makes sooo much sense.....especially long term when you regret you didnt step up when you had the chance (should have a dollar for every hot rodder who felt that).
Check out my new MMS 223 heads.....can't be beat for the money (low 2K).....these things kill the AFR 205's I did back in the day btw....had I had these heads then I would have been 10 RWHP stronger at least.
Mamo Engineering and attention to detail for a few more bucks than budget heads....I spent alot of time on this product to allow that to happen
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...man-heads.html
I can also help you with a custom cam and all the rest of the package to optimize my new heads....I will help you build a killer set-up that will actually meet or exceed your goals versus the more common situation (most folks miss their targets by quite a bit).
You may have to invest a little more but you get alot more when the smoke clears....sometimes getting better "value" requires just that....spending a little more money.....in fact it's that way in most purchases you will make in your lifetime
If I can help be sure to reach out
Regards,
Tony
__________________
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
10-08-2016, 05:56 PM
#26
Back in 2010 I did a bre 224 cam with valve job 243s milled to 62 cc (11:1) and it made 444 / 414. I've been around a lot of head cam ls1 setups and dynod my car after most changes. That thing made rediculous torque down low and pulled to 7000 rpm. It's all in the attention to details but my budget build performed much better than most cars I've seen. https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...nderdrive.html
10-08-2016, 08:47 PM
#27
Good heads are where it's at....that's where all the real power is made and they are the foundation of any serious build
Every other part plays a supporting role to the heads. You could have a mismatched combo with great heads and still make good power versus a well thought out combo with average heads that would make less. If you spend the time to optimize the better heads the sky is the limit in some regard. As has been previously mentioned, 10 years ago I made 475-480 at the tire with an old school 224/228 cam and my first generation AFR 205 heads I designed in 2004....hell I did that with a ported FAST 90 mm....the 102 wasn't even out yet
Think about all the time and money you will invest in an average set-up factoring in ALL the costs, install, tune.....spending another $500 or so on really good clean sheet design aftermarket heads makes sooo much sense.....especially long term when you regret you didnt step up when you had the chance (should have a dollar for every hot rodder who felt that).
Check out my new MMS 223 heads.....can't be beat for the money (low 2K).....these things kill the AFR 205's I did back in the day btw....had I had these heads then I would have been 10 RWHP stronger at least.
Mamo Engineering and attention to detail for a few more bucks than budget heads....I spent alot of time on this product to allow that to happen
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...man-heads.html
I can also help you with a custom cam and all the rest of the package to optimize my new heads....I will help you build a killer set-up that will actually meet or exceed your goals versus the more common situation (most folks miss their targets by quite a bit).
You may have to invest a little more but you get alot more when the smoke clears....sometimes getting better "value" requires just that....spending a little more money.....in fact it's that way in most purchases you will make in your lifetime
If I can help be sure to reach out
Regards,
Tony
Every other part plays a supporting role to the heads. You could have a mismatched combo with great heads and still make good power versus a well thought out combo with average heads that would make less. If you spend the time to optimize the better heads the sky is the limit in some regard. As has been previously mentioned, 10 years ago I made 475-480 at the tire with an old school 224/228 cam and my first generation AFR 205 heads I designed in 2004....hell I did that with a ported FAST 90 mm....the 102 wasn't even out yet
Think about all the time and money you will invest in an average set-up factoring in ALL the costs, install, tune.....spending another $500 or so on really good clean sheet design aftermarket heads makes sooo much sense.....especially long term when you regret you didnt step up when you had the chance (should have a dollar for every hot rodder who felt that).
Check out my new MMS 223 heads.....can't be beat for the money (low 2K).....these things kill the AFR 205's I did back in the day btw....had I had these heads then I would have been 10 RWHP stronger at least.
Mamo Engineering and attention to detail for a few more bucks than budget heads....I spent alot of time on this product to allow that to happen
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...man-heads.html
I can also help you with a custom cam and all the rest of the package to optimize my new heads....I will help you build a killer set-up that will actually meet or exceed your goals versus the more common situation (most folks miss their targets by quite a bit).
You may have to invest a little more but you get alot more when the smoke clears....sometimes getting better "value" requires just that....spending a little more money.....in fact it's that way in most purchases you will make in your lifetime
If I can help be sure to reach out
Regards,
Tony
10-09-2016, 01:50 AM
#29
I've run a 234/242 111 and now a 227/244 115... the 227 is the better cam.
Don't go for huge overlap. I had it driving fine with a/c on in traffic. But it was never quite right. The bigger cam and a 4200 stall would blitz hard when you got on it. But it was a bit of a dog downstairs.
The smaller cam is even more powerful on the street. And drives like stock.
So.
Don't go for huge overlap. I had it driving fine with a/c on in traffic. But it was never quite right. The bigger cam and a 4200 stall would blitz hard when you got on it. But it was a bit of a dog downstairs.
The smaller cam is even more powerful on the street. And drives like stock.
So.
10-09-2016, 10:03 AM
#30
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Excellent advice. I'm really interested in your new heads.. I'd have to invest roughly $600-$700 more than what I planned on my 243s but still not bad for what you are getting for results. I will definitely consider this if I can find ways to save a little more on the rest of the build. I will have to look at some smaller cam options and just plan on milling more. I will have to get with you to see what you recommend going forward for a cam.
10-09-2016, 11:14 AM
#31
I've run a 234/242 111 and now a 227/244 115... the 227 is the better cam.
Don't go for huge overlap. I had it driving fine with a/c on in traffic. But it was never quite right. The bigger cam and a 4200 stall would blitz hard when you got on it. But it was a bit of a dog downstairs.
The smaller cam is even more powerful on the street. And drives like stock.
So.
Don't go for huge overlap. I had it driving fine with a/c on in traffic. But it was never quite right. The bigger cam and a 4200 stall would blitz hard when you got on it. But it was a bit of a dog downstairs.
The smaller cam is even more powerful on the street. And drives like stock.
So.
At what point are cams considered to have huge overlap? I want to say the cam motion spec he said was 8, not sure on the others or how to determine.. so I'll have to do some research. Thank you for the info on the cam comparisons.. it definitely helps
10-09-2016, 11:31 AM
#32
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That's exactly what I don't want, is it being a dog down low.. even with an ss4000 I'm sure it would make a difference to have a little more power down low for street use. At what point are cams considered to have huge overlap? I want to say the cam motion spec he said was 8, not sure on the others or how to determine.. so I'll have to do some research. Thank you for the info on the cam comparisons.. it definitely helps
10-09-2016, 12:08 PM
#33
11 Second Club
That's exactly what I don't want, is it being a dog down low.. even with an ss4000 I'm sure it would make a difference to have a little more power down low for street use.
At what point are cams considered to have huge overlap? I want to say the cam motion spec he said was 8, not sure on the others or how to determine.. so I'll have to do some research. Thank you for the info on the cam comparisons.. it definitely helps
At what point are cams considered to have huge overlap? I want to say the cam motion spec he said was 8, not sure on the others or how to determine.. so I'll have to do some research. Thank you for the info on the cam comparisons.. it definitely helps
10-09-2016, 01:30 PM
#34
Just for info. To figure camshaft overlap: add the intake & exhaust, @ .050, duration numbers together then divide by two. Keep that number aside. Then take the LSA number & multiply by 2. The difference in those two numbers you have is the overlap degree at .050. Which is the normal point of measure.
Thank you for sharing, saves me looking all over for that! Good info guys! I may have to start looking for other cam options.
10-09-2016, 01:30 PM
#35
Just for info. To figure camshaft overlap: add the intake & exhaust, @ .050, duration numbers together then divide by two. Keep that number aside. Then take the LSA number & multiply by 2. The difference in those two numbers you have is the overlap degree at .050. Which is the normal point of measure.
10-09-2016, 04:52 PM
#36
http://www.wallaceracing.com/overlap-calc.php
10-09-2016, 05:06 PM
#37
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My current setup seems to be in the same neighborhood.
AI 226 cnc package 243's milled .020 or 62cc
Cam was previous owners selection, but figured...why rip it out. Lets just see how it performs with my new heads.
Vengeance VRX2 224/228 .581 .588 114+3
Wild torque down low but loses steam faster than I would like. Also has aggressive lobes (X-ER). Put up good numbers, but felt the Mustang dyno was a bit inflated. I just feel there are better options (more power, tad more mids, milder lobes) Especially for trying to get most out of these heads. Unfortunately, I know enough to be dangerous lol..Thats why i leave it to the pros on your list or some of the super talented members on here. I myself really like Cam Motion. Great product. Their Titan 4 cam has tons of great reviews.
AI 226 cnc package 243's milled .020 or 62cc
Cam was previous owners selection, but figured...why rip it out. Lets just see how it performs with my new heads.
Vengeance VRX2 224/228 .581 .588 114+3
Wild torque down low but loses steam faster than I would like. Also has aggressive lobes (X-ER). Put up good numbers, but felt the Mustang dyno was a bit inflated. I just feel there are better options (more power, tad more mids, milder lobes) Especially for trying to get most out of these heads. Unfortunately, I know enough to be dangerous lol..Thats why i leave it to the pros on your list or some of the super talented members on here. I myself really like Cam Motion. Great product. Their Titan 4 cam has tons of great reviews.
10-09-2016, 05:18 PM
#38
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My best time was 11.4 @ 121. I did not have the best headers(Old SLP tuned length) and I was tuned on the best gas I could get at the time which was 90 octane. If I would have got my cam on a 114 +2 instead of a 112+4 would have gotten even better street manners and carry my power and a little further.imo So I always felt that their was still a little more left in the tune and in my setup. My recommendation is get the best heads you can afford. Even if that means you have to save up a little longer to get those heads. I would take Tony Mamo advise and don't look back. Good luck on your build!
10-09-2016, 06:37 PM
#39
Yea a lot of dyno numbers and track results you guys are posting with somewhat mild cams are real impressive.. blacksky it's good to see those AI 226 heads are doing well for you, I've heard a ton of excellent results with those heads, for the price. If I went with Tonys heads I know I could have a monster of a car with great street manners, I'm just not sure if I can afford the additional money, but I'm going to see what I can do because those heads would be the best route.. awesome price too! I appreciate all of the guidance on my decision. Kip said he would call me tomorrow to review the cam spec also so I'll see what he has to say.
10-09-2016, 07:37 PM
#40
Found my old graph bolt ons vs 224 cam w/self done valve job 243's vs ported fast 85 + underdrive pulley. I always started my dyno pulls down low to see what I lost or gained. The highest hp pulls were done with a 9" and 4.11's. Dyno had some tach signal issues going on but you get the point. Good flowing heads and a small cam is where it's at.
