This!

 

Yeah, going SD would be my suggestion as well. All you'll need to go FAST 90/92 would be the bigger lid, 92mm TB (checkout WARR Performance), and a connecting hose from TB to Lid (checkout intakehoses.com).

 

Aren't there some downfalls of doing SD tune if you live in areas with a lot of temperature fluctuation? I am curious, maybe it will help OP decide also.

Im almost thinking if there are no downfalls i may go this route also. I am currently looking to buy an 85mm MAF.

 

not as bad as you think...I tuned my car in 65 degree weather. my fuel trims stay pretty close +/-20degrees. When it gets colder then 40 it starts to run a tad rich, when hotter then 90 it runs a tad lean, but honestly I do not really care to drive my car when its colder then that...same for goes when its 90+. For a daily driver that will get driven in all types of weather a maf would be best no doubt.

I would stick with Nick Williams on the TB. I bought my 4" x 7" silicon hose from intakehoses.com. I went with the one that has the humps in the middle that allows it make the upward angle easier to the 98mm lid. I posted a pic for example.

 

Thanks for the suggestion Josh and the confirmation suggestions. Nice engine bay photo King. I've seen lids with the hump in the middle but didn't realize that was for the larger TB hose.
I can probably handle the WARR TB. Looks like a nice part. I'll do some research about SD. I've come across the term over the past year but never dug into it or why its used.

 

IMO there is very little downside in going from a 224/228 to some in the (226-228)/(230-232) range. Loved my old F11 (228/230) TEA stg 2 5.3 build and my friends 227/231 CamMotion. My F11 turned 436rwhp/415rwtq on a stock ls6 intake, and polished factory TB. I was on Kooks 1 3/4 no cats, 3" to the X and 2.5 after on a C5.

Very good #s especially tq and on a LS6 intake. My current build is in progress, WCCH/Edelbrock 215s (came with the car), SpartanLSX (CamMotion) 232/236 112+2 (612/612), Fast90. We will see what it turns.

 

I would go with whoever is cheapest, people put too much stock in AI IMO. I have not cared much for some of their customer service responses either.

 

Good explanation, being i drive in all kinds of weather here in michigan i'll probably stick with the 85mm myself.. I ended up with a Fast 92 TB, so hopefully it performs well.. I wanted the NW but ended up getting a decent deal on both, so hopefully i don't have any issues with it.

Good info on this thread!

 

FWIW, here is a similar set up. It's a 4"x8" 22 degree angled silicone hose doing from throttle into airbox. I've read lots of posts where the silicone hoses can suck in, so added some carbon fiber 4" tubing pieces inside for rigidity.

 

That is what I run. Don't hate.

 

Anytime I've ever e-mailed Phil, I usually get a response back within two days, and never any longer than 4 or 5 days. Their products speak for themselves in HP numbers and ET's.

 

Selling as many camshafts as we do, we get tons of feedback from our customers. For LS1s, our daily driver customers just love the Titan IV LS1 cam 227/232 113+4: http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan4
It has a great balance of performance and drivability. It is right in the "sweet spot". This camshaft is great with 2800-3500 stall converters and moderate street gearing.

 

Nah dude, I dont hate on combos that work well. But I know from experience his car is highly unlikely to run "mid 10s" as you so suggested. I'm aware that it can be done, I dont consider that feat easy and it damn sure aint the norm....ive watched way too many cars at the strip.

 

Thanks for the advise man.

That has been my experience too. If I was in a hurry, it might be a bit frustrating, but I'm in no hurry at all and I get plenty of time to consider things and research his suggestions.


I'm now leaning toward the larger cam that Phil suggested, the Titan IV that you suggested or TSP 228r. Doesn't the "+4" in 113+4 shift the torque curve down just a bit?
Would I be OK with the 3:23 gears that I have (Yank 3600)?

 

Just as an fyi I'm running an essentially older version of the titan 4 and its a nice overall cam, tons of midrange power and pulls clean to my 6750 shift.

 

Great to hear. I think I'm sold on a larger mid sized cam.

 

Never said they didnt get back to people or they did not have a good product.

 

The +4 is the advance, generally speaking.... more advance (duration and lobe separation remaining the same) gives a higher dynamic compression and increases power lower in the band.

If you want to get deeper into the valve events:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...n-part-ii.html

The topic above is a good read even if much of it goes over your head to get a feel why some cams are designed for certain applications.

 

I appreciate the explanation. I have read through that a good bit and it does go over my head. But Ive learned a good bit since Ive read it and it may do me good to go back through it again.

 

For your specific application questions, yes the Titan IV will be great for you. The 3600 stall converter will assure that the Titan IV is always in its powerband. The valve timing of the Titan IV will also give you the needed torque to power your 3.23 gears. Of course, your car will accelerate quicker from a stop with a 3.73 or 4.10 gear, but the Titan IV we be great in your current combo and appreciate future modifications like a higher numerical rear gear change if you do that later.

In regards to the "+4", this is often referred to as 4 degrees of "advance" in "ground in" to the camshaft. This can be misleading. "Advancing" a camshaft's timing usually does indeed result in shifting the powerband of a given engine lower in the RPM range. So, the associated effect you would be referring to is correct. But, that is not really what the +4 is about. This "+4 degrees of advance" terminology is really just a mathematical expression of the relationship between the intake and exhaust lobe centers.

Here are some examples:



Have a look at these two Cam-Timer results. Notice the areas circled in red. The camshaft specs on the left represent a 225 degrees at .050" duration single pattern camshaft with a 110 degree lobe separation angle. If you notice, this camshaft has an advance figure of "0". As you can see in this scenario, the intake lobe is centered on a 110 degree after top dead center "centerline" and the exhaust is centered on a 110 degree before top dead center "centerline".

Now look at the Cam-Timer results on the right. It has the same 225 degrees of duration at .050" and the same 110 degree lobe separation angle, but this camshaft shows 2 degrees of "advance". Now notice that the intake lobe centerline is 2 degrees earlier at 108 degrees after top dead center and the exhaust is also 2 degrees earlier at 112 before top dead center. The ICL lobe center gets smaller with advance because it is after top dead center and the exhaust centerline number gets bigger with advance because it is before top dead center.

Determining these lobe centers is a tool for the camshaft grinder/manufacturer. It tells them where to center a given lobe on a camshaft they are making to get the proper valve timing. So those figures are very important to the person making the camshaft, but maybe not the best thing to look at for someone trying to understand how the camshaft will behave/perform in a given engine.

If you want a more accurate predictor of how a camshaft will behave in a given engine, I recommend engine builders look at the 4 valve events and overlap:
Intake Valve Open (IVO)
Intake Valve Close (IVC)
Exhaust Valve Open (EVO)
Exhaust Valve Close (EVC)
Have a look at the picture below and note the items circled in green. This will show you these valve events at .050" of lifter lift. These events can also be evaluated at different points of lift such as .006" and .200" as well to gain even more insight. Getting familiar with these valve events is a much more accurate way to understand and predict a camshafts effect on performance than lobe separation angle and lobe centers which are really just numbers used by camshaft grinders during the manufacturing/machining process.