Another "no oil pressure" thread. Solutions??
Another "no oil pressure" thread. Solutions?? A mechanical gauge shows that I have zero pressure. Prior to finding that out I replaced the sending unit. I am getting ready to swap the pump out for a TSP LS6 pump and a new O-ring. Is there anything else that it could be??
BTW, I have zero pressure, not 10 or 20 psi, ZERO.
THX
BTW, I have zero pressure, not 10 or 20 psi, ZERO.
THX
Originally Posted by ellessone
A mechanical gauge shows that I have zero pressure. Prior to finding that out I replaced the sending unit. I am getting ready to swap the pump out for a TSP LS6 pump and a new O-ring. Is there anything else that it could be??
BTW, I have zero pressure, not 10 or 20 psi, ZERO.
THX
BTW, I have zero pressure, not 10 or 20 psi, ZERO.
THX
The pump has failed (most likely due to the reason above), there's really no other reason for having zero oil pressure that is verified by a mechanical gauge.
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
\The pump has failed (most likely due to the reason above), there's really no other reason for having zero oil pressure that is verified by a mechanical gauge.
Thanks man, that's exactly what I want to hear. Should have the pump tomorrow.
My brother and I just finished installing a TSP ported oil pump in a buddies car (along with a G5X2, springs and a double roller). On inital startup we got 70 PSI of oil pressure. I don't know if the TSP pumps are shimmed for more oil pressure but it seemed a bit too high for a ported stock pump. He heat cycled the car twice and let it cool, then he babied it home. He noticed his oil pressure was getting low while driving it home.
Then, today, my buddy warms up his car he noticed he had zero oil pressure.
I think his relief valve on the TSP pump is stuck open. He's gonna pull the oil filter off and have someone crank the motor over with the coil packs and fuel pumps disabled to make sure the oil pump is able to pump oil by watching if oil is pumping out of the oil filter location.
If it doesn't then the oil pump has failed.
There have been 3 "issues" with TSP oil pumps that I have read about so far. I hope my buddies isn't a fourth
Then, today, my buddy warms up his car he noticed he had zero oil pressure.
I think his relief valve on the TSP pump is stuck open. He's gonna pull the oil filter off and have someone crank the motor over with the coil packs and fuel pumps disabled to make sure the oil pump is able to pump oil by watching if oil is pumping out of the oil filter location.
If it doesn't then the oil pump has failed.
There have been 3 "issues" with TSP oil pumps that I have read about so far. I hope my buddies isn't a fourth
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
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From: Texas and Qatar
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
There have been 3 "issues" with TSP oil pumps that I have read about so far. I hope my buddies isn't a fourth
I do the pumps for TSP and I only know of one issue that was posted. That was when I accidentally put the outer gear of the oil pump inverted and didn't catch it as it still spun when it left here, when he installed his pulley is when he found it didn't turn anymore. Thats the only mistake I've made out of prob 175-200 pumps done in the last year.
One other phone in tech problem that I ran across was when a customer had a shop install his TSP pump and they packed his oil pump full of wheel bearing grease and wanted to know why he had no oil pressure... I think they ran it long enough to hurt the motor. Some people shouldn't be paid to work on engines...
One reason why some customers have problems is because they don't change their oil after doing internal modifications and debris gets into the oil pump and sticks the relief valve. When the relief valve sticks you either have to replace the pump or if its new, remove the foreign debris that is holding the valve. I can assure you that whatever is sticking the valve didn't come with the pump.
The pumps are shimmed .110" for extra oil pressure, its not needed, but some of the higher mileage cars like something better than 15lbs of pressure. If you order a pump and do not want it shimmed, just make a note of it to the sales guys. 
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Texas and Qatar
Originally Posted by southern94
but if the relief valve is open will it still fill up the filter?
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Originally Posted by -Joseph-
I do the pumps for TSP and I only know of one issue that was posted. That was when I accidentally put the outer gear of the oil pump inverted and didn't catch it as it still spun when it left here, when he installed his pulley is when he found it didn't turn anymore. Thats the only mistake I've made out of prob 175-200 pumps done in the last year.
One other phone in tech problem that I ran across was when a customer had a shop install his TSP pump and they packed his oil pump full of wheel bearing grease and wanted to know why he had no oil pressure... I think they ran it long enough to hurt the motor. Some people shouldn't be paid to work on engines...
One reason why some customers have problems is because they don't change their oil after doing internal modifications and debris gets into the oil pump and sticks the relief valve. When the relief valve sticks you either have to replace the pump or if its new, remove the foreign debris that is holding the valve. I can assure you that whatever is sticking the valve didn't come with the pump. The pumps are shimmed .110" for extra oil pressure, its not needed, but some of the higher mileage cars like something better than 15lbs of pressure. If you order a pump and do not want it shimmed, just make a note of it to the sales guys.
One other phone in tech problem that I ran across was when a customer had a shop install his TSP pump and they packed his oil pump full of wheel bearing grease and wanted to know why he had no oil pressure... I think they ran it long enough to hurt the motor. Some people shouldn't be paid to work on engines...
One reason why some customers have problems is because they don't change their oil after doing internal modifications and debris gets into the oil pump and sticks the relief valve. When the relief valve sticks you either have to replace the pump or if its new, remove the foreign debris that is holding the valve. I can assure you that whatever is sticking the valve didn't come with the pump.
The pumps are shimmed .110" for extra oil pressure, its not needed, but some of the higher mileage cars like something better than 15lbs of pressure. If you order a pump and do not want it shimmed, just make a note of it to the sales guys. The oil was changed before firing the car up. Upon initial start up the cold idle PSI was 70. This doesn't worry me anymore since you have verified that these pumps are indeed shimmed for increased oil pressure.
I really feel the relief valve is stuck open on this pump being that there is zero oil pressure. When this is stuck open all oil is shunted back to the pan and not to the oil passages thus no oil pressure is picked up via the sensor at the back of the block. The pump will be coming off the car tomorrow. Is there anyway I can verify the relief valve is stuck in the open position? I can remove the front cover of the oil pump and get you pics of the relief valve and send them to you for your diagnosis.
What do you think?
BTW, what kind of "mechanic" packs an oil pump full of bearing grease? Sheesh. No wonder that pump didn't work.
On the old SBC and BBC oil pumps, it is common practice to pack the pumps with white lithium grease (lubriplate) to prime them. I've done it many times and it works fine.
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
On the old SBC and BBC oil pumps, it is common practice to pack the pumps with white lithium grease (lubriplate) to prime them. I've done it many times and it works fine.
How does packing the pump prime it, 2xLS1? Does it just increase the resistance to flow so the pump has to work harder to increase oil pressure?
Thanks for any and all info.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
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From: Texas and Qatar
You can check the relief valve position without pulling the pump off, just pull off the front timing cover and then pull the front plate off the pump. If you can see a gap at the top of the relief valve then something is holding it open, it doesn't take much either, You'd have to pull the pump to get to the relief valve access plug for the fix. If you can find what is holding the valve then I'd just clean it out good and reuse it, if its a casting defect or something physically wrong with the pump from running it, let me know and I'll send another out asap and I'll run that one on one of our shop cars, lol. You can also send me pics too, but call and let me know so I'll be sure to check my email. 
As Glen said on the cast iron submerged SBC and BBC oil pumps you could pack the pump with lithium grease, I've done that before too. On a LS1 pump all that is needed is clean engine oil or even a liquid-type engine assembly lube coating works fine.
As Glen said on the cast iron submerged SBC and BBC oil pumps you could pack the pump with lithium grease, I've done that before too. On a LS1 pump all that is needed is clean engine oil or even a liquid-type engine assembly lube coating works fine.
I'm not agreeing with the wheel bearing grease thing or doing it with LS1 pumps. White lithium grease (lubriplate) is quite different as are the old style pumps. It pretty much turns to liquid with just a little heat. It was commonly used as assembly lube all over a new engine. I think thay by having the grease to push out of the pump, it helped create the suction to draw oil into it on initial start up. I can understand why an old school mechanic would pack a pump because it was just something that was done. Never with wheel bearing grease though.
