truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

so I bought a set of ported 243's and in the middle of tearing them down to freshen them up I realized the spring seat on runner #1 of both heads had a small hole into the roof of the runner near where the typical rocker bolt boss hole shows up.


The hole appears only on runner #1 of both heads (i guess it'd be #8 on the passenger head) so I assume it was a core shift issue.

The epoxy used appears to have held up really well, but I have no clue what it was to source more.

I could tig it up, but getting my torch in there would be a big pain in the ***.

anyways here's some crappy pics.

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

I have seen, in extreme porting circumstances, they will use weld to enlarge the ports. This is what they did to the stock heads of my buddies New Viper GTS back in 1996, when no one offered aftermarket heads for a second Gen V10 8.0. Maybe this was the same principle.

Or, maybe during the porting they went a little to close and thinned out the material and it cracked, and the easiest method for them at the time was epoxy?

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

yeah I think welding it up is gonna be the fix

i plan on putting some e85 through this motor and I can't get any solid confirmation that any 2 part epoxy would hold up to the ethanol

cookseyb

JB Weld good for pretty high temps and machinable too. I have repaired many cast iron pumps with it to get them back in service until a new casting could be sourced..

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

i used to use JB weld to seal fuel bowl casting plugs on quadrajets (they were the best you could do for a street car, lol) back in the day

when they started adding ethanol to replace MTBE in pump gas, the JB weld would just go mushy and fall off.

Fang

TIG it. JB Weld is a kids toy compared to the right epoxy that would survive, reliably, for something like that.

TIG should be easy. Extend the tungsten way out, tape up the intake port at the flange. Poke a hole in the tape for feeding the filler rod. The port will trap the argon for you. Easy.

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

yeah that's pretty much my plan.

Gotta get some 4047 rod...1/16th or 3/32nd?

Fang

I would use 3/32" because I'm lazy and it's the right size for 90% of everything. Or close enough.

Another tip, make a thick steel or copper washer/spacer/backer thing that fits fairly snug in the spring seat. The AL weld won't stick to the backer and it will maintain the dimensions of the seat for you. It's thin in that area (obviously) so the holes are going to open up some when you melt into it. Without a backer, it will sag on the backside and that would be Not Good.

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

damn, good idea. thanks!