Noleman

I posted this in another forum. Look to get as much feedback as possible.

Hey fellas (and ladies),

New here. Used to have a 96 Z28 back in HS. Thinking of buying a 2000 SS. It has 106k miles. It's in pretty good shape. No rust anywhere. Leather seats are in really good condition. The only real blemishes on the car is a 4in diameter spot on the spoiler where the clear coat is pealed away and the black paint across the B pillar that goes over the roof is wavey (I can't explain it). They just replaced the ac compressor and the water pump and belts.

Anyway, the only reason I'm hesitant is because when I test drove it today, it felt like it was down on power by about 75 hp. It threw a code and the dealer said the code was a cat converter. I asked if they've done a compression test and they said they have not. They're will to take $300 of of the car so o can fix the converter. My concern is that a cylinder might be down for whatever reason, either a ring or a cracked sleeve, or even worse a cracked block.

My question to you all is, can a blown cat cause a loss of, what feels like, 75 hp or more? And what are the chances that the motor is blown? I told the guy I'd split the cost of a compression test and if the motor is good I'd buy it. If they don't test it, is it worth the risk?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

They're asking $7700 out the door.

NAVYBLUE210

Clogged converter can absolutely rob 75 hp. You made a fair offer on the
Compression test, I would independently verify the code as cats as well.
Spending $100-150 on a pre purchase inspection is money well spent,
Where are you located?

Gearhead1

I was under the impression that a dealer couldn't sell a vehicle without making sure it passes emissions first. I would think that if the cat is dead, they'd have to replace it before the sale. At least that's how it is in the St. Louis area. Do you live in a city that doesn't have emission testing, by chance?

G Atsma

If it runs OK right off the line but just fades out under acceleration, it WILL be the cat. You are feeling MAJOR backpressure. Now if it runs rough or you hear or feel a miss, there are other issues. If you buy it as-is, a test would be to torch a 1" hole right before either or both converters. If it suddenly improves you found the problem. Not saying there aren't other issues, but this is most common on higher mileage vehicles.
NAVYBLUE 210 has it right.

Noleman

I'm in Tampa.

We dont have emissions in Florida.

There is no miss and it doesn't run rough either. It does just feel like a lot of backpressure, like bogging, and there is a rattle.

They offered to let me take it for a few days as a "rental" to get it checked out. I'll probably do that tomorrow. Anyone know how much a compression test runs? (have had newer cars for so long, kinda forget the cost of a mechanic lol) Also, anyone have a good link to a "how to" replace a cat on this car?

G Atsma

If there is a rattle coming from the vicinity of the converter, it means the "brick" inside the shell is crumbling and blocking the converter. Had it happen a few times on a Ford F-250 work truck with a 351W. Once it starts falling apart, full blockage happens pretty fast. I'd make a safe bet the main problem is a clogged catalytic converter.
Replacing a cat is like replacing a muffler. Cut out the old, weld in the new.

Noleman

Yeah. I figured. was wondering if the camaro was a bolt on replacement or a weld in. I was hoping is was a bolt in. Do you know if there is a kit out there that can clamp on after I cut out the old? I dont have access to a welder, so I would have to take it to a shop.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi Noleman, yes "test drive" THEN measure the CAT temperature with an IR tool AND connect to the OBD-II port making a "read"

These TWO items can be had at Harbor Freight, always good for your tool box.

The CAT should be VERY HOT, if not it is plugged/loose brick.

The temperature "read" should be EVEN front to back.

Lance

HappySalesman

iTrader: (3)

Honestly if you're gonna go through all the work of replacing the cats, I'd recommend upgrading to headers.

G Atsma

I know on the Flowmaster website there are replacement headpipe/converter units for both right and left sides if you want a bolt-in job, but they are PRICEY. Otherwise a muffler shop will do it quickly for not much labor. Up to you.....

Noleman

Hey fellas. Thanks for all the info. You all helped out a lot. Due to all the information you all provided, I ended up not buying the Camaro. I drove an extra hour away and picked up a Silver 2002 Pontiac Trans Am with 99600 miles. The car is completely stock and is mechanically sound. The sail issue is there, but it;s only noticeable when you look for it. No other cosmetic issues. The chrome wheels weren't even pitted. The clear coat still has its glossy shine. It's in great shape and I picked it up for $8500.00. I have pics and will post up in an intro thread. Thanks again!

G Atsma

Glad you got answers you needed! Now with a stock T/A you have a blank canvas to do any and all mods you want, and they will be YOUR mods! And you WILL want to do some stuff to it! It's the nature of this hobby. These cars with these engines can do so much, which makes you want to make them do even more, because you know it CAN.
All the best to you and your new ride!