Valve spring question/rant
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On The Tree
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Valve spring question/rant This is kind of a long story...somewhat of a rant. I've had some pretty bad luck with my motor. I purchased a CTS-V with what was supposed to be a blown head gasket. Turns out #7 and #8 had broken connecting rods that punched a hole in the side of the motor. Scrap that block.
Looking around and I purchased an LS6 from a friend that was out of an '02 Corvette. Stock bottom end with a 224r cam, CNC'd 862 heads from West Coast Cylinder heads, and aftermarket injectors...pretty good deal.
Well the motor originally started off with a lifter tick that I narrowed down to a bent pushrod in #8...fast forward maybe 500 miles later, the valve from that pushrod decides to break sending the valve into the head and punching 2 holes into the head. They're trashed. I pull the heads off and go to rotate the motor...#7 doesn't want to move. I pull the motor and realize it snapped the connecting rod, sending the bottom half of the rod through the side of the motor.
With all of this happening, I am having another block rebuilt for me to put into the car...I'm putting the 224r cam back in and using the stock 243 heads that I pulled off the car originally.
Now I do actually have a question in all of this...what springs can I use for this application? The CNC'd heads did have dual springs, but I'm not going to reuse those, no telling if they didn't have something to do with my issues from before. I was looking at WS6Stores Brian tooley valve spring kit rated at .660 lift. My cam is spec'd at .581
Thanks for sticking with me through this post lol
Looking around and I purchased an LS6 from a friend that was out of an '02 Corvette. Stock bottom end with a 224r cam, CNC'd 862 heads from West Coast Cylinder heads, and aftermarket injectors...pretty good deal.
Well the motor originally started off with a lifter tick that I narrowed down to a bent pushrod in #8...fast forward maybe 500 miles later, the valve from that pushrod decides to break sending the valve into the head and punching 2 holes into the head. They're trashed. I pull the heads off and go to rotate the motor...#7 doesn't want to move. I pull the motor and realize it snapped the connecting rod, sending the bottom half of the rod through the side of the motor.
With all of this happening, I am having another block rebuilt for me to put into the car...I'm putting the 224r cam back in and using the stock 243 heads that I pulled off the car originally.
Now I do actually have a question in all of this...what springs can I use for this application? The CNC'd heads did have dual springs, but I'm not going to reuse those, no telling if they didn't have something to do with my issues from before. I was looking at WS6Stores Brian tooley valve spring kit rated at .660 lift. My cam is spec'd at .581
Thanks for sticking with me through this post lol
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From: PDX-OR-USA
Its possible the spring issues are from incorrect installation at the valve, IE were the springs installed and tested for bind and fit? Less experienced builders often overlook machining the spring pocket in the head for the springs.. And correct pre-load..
damn you have some luck dude. third time's a charm tho.
were the cnc heads cut in the spring pocket? might give a call to that porting company and see what springs they used and what they'd recommend for your cam.
were the cnc heads cut in the spring pocket? might give a call to that porting company and see what springs they used and what they'd recommend for your cam.
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On The Tree
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I have no idea. Unfortunately the motor was basically bought as a modified crate engine that I dropped in. Learned my lesson from that one. Wondering what valve springs would be working in my favor this time around?
Stock 243 heads with a 224r cam. Don't want to use the stock springs. The Brian Tooley kit rated at .660 lift is what I was thinking of using
Stock 243 heads with a 224r cam. Don't want to use the stock springs. The Brian Tooley kit rated at .660 lift is what I was thinking of using
i'm too slow i guess
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On The Tree
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Didn't think to call the cylinder head company, and I'm not so sure I know if the heads were cut in the spring pocket. How would I tell if they were?
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No matter what, all the clearances will still need checked,,,
I have had OEM stock springs, stock cam and factory new heads stock part number bind the springs because the head was not machined correctly around the guides.. YMMV...
I have had OEM stock springs, stock cam and factory new heads stock part number bind the springs because the head was not machined correctly around the guides.. YMMV...
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On The Tree
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Thanks for the heads up. I'll make sure to ask the builder the double check everything
For that xer lobe id recommend our 1219x pac spring.
They are $179 shipped. use stock hardware (seata seals rets and locks) and have the pressure you need. Drop in and go!
The 1218 are a good spring for less but unless you can shim to .050 before coil bind for those lobes the 1219x is your best bet!!
They are $179 shipped. use stock hardware (seata seals rets and locks) and have the pressure you need. Drop in and go!
The 1218 are a good spring for less but unless you can shim to .050 before coil bind for those lobes the 1219x is your best bet!!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (4)
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From: Southern California
For that xer lobe id recommend our 1219x pac spring.
They are $179 shipped. use stock hardware (seata seals rets and locks) and have the pressure you need. Drop in and go!
The 1218 are a good spring for less but unless you can shim to .050 before coil bind for those lobes the 1219x is your best bet!!
They are $179 shipped. use stock hardware (seata seals rets and locks) and have the pressure you need. Drop in and go!
The 1218 are a good spring for less but unless you can shim to .050 before coil bind for those lobes the 1219x is your best bet!!