Anyone have Frankenstein stage 1 243 heads?
i’ve seen some shops charge around $250 for this service. if it did help n/a it would have to be quite a good difference for me to consider it
02-02-2018, 05:34 PM
#82
I really wish I could find the specs of my cam, so I could have the heads milled. I am pretty certain that the cam is 232-235/232-235 .591/.610. I am just going to have them milled to clear 235/235 .610/.610.
The motor is coming out of the bottom of the car, so I am debating pulling the cam to have it measured.
The motor is coming out of the bottom of the car, so I am debating pulling the cam to have it measured.
02-02-2018, 05:40 PM
#83
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My reply never seemed to send. But why would he say that? Hell, ANY port work to a head (unless its a hack job) will net some type of gain. Impatiently waiting for my heads. Cam should be in today. As far as compression, their website says 0.010 for surfacing. Whats that put the CC? usually 0.065 per cc correct? so roughly 62ish CC?
02-02-2018, 06:14 PM
#84
I really wish I could find the specs of my cam, so I could have the heads milled. I am pretty certain that the cam is 232-235/232-235 .591/.610. I am just going to have them milled to clear 235/235 .610/.610.
The motor is coming out of the bottom of the car, so I am debating pulling the cam to have it measured.
The motor is coming out of the bottom of the car, so I am debating pulling the cam to have it measured.
OR you can always go with a new cam to be 100%
I’d like to slightly mill mine. then run a head gasket to achieve my 11.0. I’d like to be careful and not mill them too much as if I ever want to throw them on another motor i build for possibly boost or just bigger cubes. having trouble doing the math though 
03-14-2018, 11:27 AM
#87
Waiting to get mine back from tuner. Dropped them off a few weeks ago. I'm anxious to ask him the update on them but I know he's swamped with tax return upgrades for customers so I'm holding off. They have a graph on their website. Stage 1 is 224cc, touches a tad over 300 cfm at .600". Makes great numbers up to .600" lift so and actually keeps rising at .650"
03-15-2018, 10:41 AM
#90
camshaft made it. Looks like FedEx slung it around pretty good and damaged the box. Lol inspection looks fine though. BTR Stage 2 LS3 cam, should be about 2 weeks for the heads. Thinking about .045 or .04 gasket. I think that will put me around 10.8-11.0 compression if my math is correct.
Why did you go with an LS3 cam in a cathedral port LS1? This whole thread was about optimizing smaller runners so why not get a cam built around your setup?
03-15-2018, 11:11 AM
#91
For one, I got it brand new local for a hell of a deal. Talking with a shop or two, it'll make decent power. The runners are a 224cc. I think it'll do fine, but if not then I'll look at other options. But specs on a stage 2 for ls3 vs ls1/2 are:
225/238 .612"/.585" 113+3 LS3
227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2 LS1/2
BTR has mentioned it would make good power in lower rpm applications with this cam as well
225/238 .612"/.585" 113+3 LS3
227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2 LS1/2
BTR has mentioned it would make good power in lower rpm applications with this cam as well
03-15-2018, 01:07 PM
#92
For one, I got it brand new local for a hell of a deal. Talking with a shop or two, it'll make decent power. The runners are a 224cc. I think it'll do fine, but if not then I'll look at other options. But specs on a stage 2 for ls3 vs ls1/2 are:
225/238 .612"/.585" 113+3 LS3
227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2 LS1/2
BTR has mentioned it would make good power in lower rpm applications with this cam as well
225/238 .612"/.585" 113+3 LS3
227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2 LS1/2
BTR has mentioned it would make good power in lower rpm applications with this cam as well
My point was simply that you made a big deal out of wanting the most out of your combo but didn't actually try to do that IMO. Also you are mini-tubbing this thing? Really wasted money at this power level. I know guys running low 9s without even thinking about that.
03-15-2018, 01:10 PM
#93
When it gets c notched here soon I might look into fender work. No real reason. Im not looking to break records or anything spectacular. I don't think a basic street truck that's a sleep honestly needs everything custom spec'd for my liking. I never stated I plan to mini tub it.
03-15-2018, 01:52 PM
#94
When it gets c notched here soon I might look into fender work. No real reason. Im not looking to break records or anything spectacular. I don't think a basic street truck that's a sleep honestly needs everything custom spec'd for my liking. I never stated I plan to mini tub it.
04-03-2018, 10:01 AM
#96
At this point, I have no clue idea what's going on with my 243's. Dropped them off with my tuner January 30th and still nothing. Website says 7-12 business days from the point they get them. Tuner is swamped so getting in touch with him can be challenging. He told me this morning the salesman he went through is no longer there with Frankenstein. Just a heads up to anyone looking to use them. Here it is April 3rd and nothing back from them.
04-03-2018, 07:53 PM
#97
This is relevant my interest as I’m in the prep fo building an LS6 in my CTS V daily. To minimize downtime I’m going to pickup a separate set of heads so I can get all the work done over a couple days.
To have a set Of 243 stock heads done like the Frankenstein’s or buy some done like the Thompson Motorsports is my current conundrum.
I’m trying to get some info on the parts cost, port work cost (seems like 650-750), and the assembly cost. I’d like to be able to make a fair cost/performance comparison and pull the trigger in the next few weeks.
Overall target is a refreshed setup (top end and wear items) and ~100 wheel hp increase over stock.
General replace/upgrades to oem ish
-Oil pump (OEM LS6 new)
-Timing chain and wear guides etc (OEM LS2 upgrade)
-Fresh LS6 dampener/balancer pulley
-T56 1st gear synchro and a few bits
-Water pump thermostat etc
-General oem fasteners, gaskets, seals etc
-I've already done a lot of maintenance bits like hoses, tensioners, oil pan gasket, plugs, wires, etc
POWA upgrades waiting to go on
-LS7 42lb injectors as the 28lb stockers won't cut it
-Stainless headers (maximizer OBX knock offs)
-Cometic 0.040 head gaskets to bump compression from 10.5 to ~11:1
POWA upgrades I'm still researching
-Upgrade 243 heads (Frankenstein style) to ported, polished, 3-5 angle valve job, fresh guts, and upgraded beehive springs
-Easy button from Thompson Motorsports EBAY store for ~1250 delivered (everything but cam and pushrods)
-These are well respected (for budget stuff) and use oem quality stuff but not exactly how I would build them with the LS7lifters/trays, TI retainers, upgraded trunions, Dell West valves (nascar leftovers)
-Pick up some bare no name 243’s already cnc’d and valve jobbed then have them built...
- In either of the above head choices there are valve upgrades available to increase size and reduce weight but I'm just not sure
-Cam upgrade to something like a 224/236 586/598 LSA114 - maybe up to 610
- I think there are literally a million cam choices for ~$400 with significant variations on lift, duration, and LSA. The sticky thread is awesome and educational but want to wait and talk to someone on the heads before buying
-It's a manual and
-Pushrod length will be a measure and buy mid build as a buddies shop is right by Jeggs Cubs Oh
-Intake and throttle body is a bit odd as it has the LS2 90MM throttle body and intake already which should be a nice upgrade over the 78MM stock LS6 setup
-Unless a Fast intake setup hits my Craigslist search really cheap I cannot justify ~800 for an intake and another ~250 for the bigger DBW throttle body for ~15hp
-There is likely a middle of the road option to port out my stock LS2 by hand and add the bigger aftermarket DBW throttlebody for ~250 to get a ~10hp gain
In theory the ~100hp adds up below on top of my 378 whp and I’ll be headed back to the same dyno and tuner.
-Header 30hp
-Cam 30hp
-Headwork and compression 40hp
In theory I'll have about $2900 out of pocket and ~500 of that comes back from flipping my old heads, injectors, and a few spare bits. In classic style I’ll have 2K in HP adders and 900 in repair stuff.
To have a set Of 243 stock heads done like the Frankenstein’s or buy some done like the Thompson Motorsports is my current conundrum.
I’m trying to get some info on the parts cost, port work cost (seems like 650-750), and the assembly cost. I’d like to be able to make a fair cost/performance comparison and pull the trigger in the next few weeks.
Overall target is a refreshed setup (top end and wear items) and ~100 wheel hp increase over stock.
General replace/upgrades to oem ish
-Oil pump (OEM LS6 new)
-Timing chain and wear guides etc (OEM LS2 upgrade)
-Fresh LS6 dampener/balancer pulley
-T56 1st gear synchro and a few bits
-Water pump thermostat etc
-General oem fasteners, gaskets, seals etc
-I've already done a lot of maintenance bits like hoses, tensioners, oil pan gasket, plugs, wires, etc
POWA upgrades waiting to go on
-LS7 42lb injectors as the 28lb stockers won't cut it
-Stainless headers (maximizer OBX knock offs)
-Cometic 0.040 head gaskets to bump compression from 10.5 to ~11:1
POWA upgrades I'm still researching
-Upgrade 243 heads (Frankenstein style) to ported, polished, 3-5 angle valve job, fresh guts, and upgraded beehive springs
-Easy button from Thompson Motorsports EBAY store for ~1250 delivered (everything but cam and pushrods)
-These are well respected (for budget stuff) and use oem quality stuff but not exactly how I would build them with the LS7lifters/trays, TI retainers, upgraded trunions, Dell West valves (nascar leftovers)
-Pick up some bare no name 243’s already cnc’d and valve jobbed then have them built...
- In either of the above head choices there are valve upgrades available to increase size and reduce weight but I'm just not sure
-Cam upgrade to something like a 224/236 586/598 LSA114 - maybe up to 610
- I think there are literally a million cam choices for ~$400 with significant variations on lift, duration, and LSA. The sticky thread is awesome and educational but want to wait and talk to someone on the heads before buying
-It's a manual and
-Pushrod length will be a measure and buy mid build as a buddies shop is right by Jeggs Cubs Oh
-Intake and throttle body is a bit odd as it has the LS2 90MM throttle body and intake already which should be a nice upgrade over the 78MM stock LS6 setup
-Unless a Fast intake setup hits my Craigslist search really cheap I cannot justify ~800 for an intake and another ~250 for the bigger DBW throttle body for ~15hp
-There is likely a middle of the road option to port out my stock LS2 by hand and add the bigger aftermarket DBW throttlebody for ~250 to get a ~10hp gain
In theory the ~100hp adds up below on top of my 378 whp and I’ll be headed back to the same dyno and tuner.
-Header 30hp
-Cam 30hp
-Headwork and compression 40hp
In theory I'll have about $2900 out of pocket and ~500 of that comes back from flipping my old heads, injectors, and a few spare bits. In classic style I’ll have 2K in HP adders and 900 in repair stuff.
04-12-2018, 03:18 PM
#99
Just to clear things up, after numerous texts I was finally able to reach my tuner. Instead of letting me know that he was too busy to send them out to Frankenstein, they just sat and collected dust in his shop since January. At this point, I'm pretty irritated. So, now I'm going to try and sell my ls1 short block and 243's and move up to a ls3 setup since I have some cash saved from this 3 month waiting process
